SIGforum.com    Main Page  Hop To Forum Categories  SIG Pistols    Reassembled my Smith and Wesson J frame cylinder and now...end shake!
Go
New
Find
Notify
Tools
Reply
  
Reassembled my Smith and Wesson J frame cylinder and now...end shake! Login/Join 
Member
posted
Welp. I don't know what I messed up here. I installed some Wilson Combat springs to my Smith 60-15. Of course, I felt I was completely informed after watching some Youtube videos (dumbass that I am). The springs were installed with little problem. I then decided to take apart the cylinder of my gun because, well shy not right? I wanted to see the inside. Of course I forgot to put in some snap caps inside of the cylinder (as recommended by several videos) and now I notice more end shake than I had before. I checked my 17-9 and there is almost an imperceptible amount on that revolver, but the J frame has more than before. Now when I fully cock the revolver it locks almost perfectly (almost no movement) but on double action, there is definitely some movement. Is there a possibility that I reassembled it incorrectly? Did I break something when I took it apart without the snap caps? Any and all advice from the Forumites would be appreciated.

Thanks!
 
Posts: 378 | Registered: November 06, 2013Reply With QuoteReport This Post
Member
Picture of SIGfourme
posted Hide Post
Did you put the correct screw in to hold the crane/cylinder in place? This screw has a detent to hold the crane/cylinder in place.
It's the screw above the trigger.
 
Posts: 2299 | Location: Southeast CT | Registered: January 18, 2009Reply With QuoteReport This Post
I started with nothing,
and still have most of it
Picture of stiab
posted Hide Post
quote:
Originally posted by DeputyCG: Now when I fully cock the revolver it locks almost perfectly (almost no movement) but on double action, there is definitely some movement. Is there a possibility that I reassembled it incorrectly?

Check it this way and see how it is: Unload the gun, cock the hammer, then lower it with your thumb while pulling the trigger all the way back, and maintain that position. Now check the cylinder.


"While not every Democrat is a horse thief, every horse thief is a Democrat." HORACE GREELEY
 
Posts: 1858 | Location: Central NC | Registered: May 18, 2005Reply With QuoteReport This Post
Member
posted Hide Post
quote:
Originally posted by SIGfourme:
Did you put the correct screw in to hold the crane/cylinder in place? This screw has a detent to hold the crane/cylinder in place.
It's the screw above the trigger.


Nope, I definitely put the correct screw in the correct position.
 
Posts: 378 | Registered: November 06, 2013Reply With QuoteReport This Post
Member
posted Hide Post
quote:
Originally posted by stiab:
quote:
Originally posted by DeputyCG: Now when I fully cock the revolver it locks almost perfectly (almost no movement) but on double action, there is definitely some movement. Is there a possibility that I reassembled it incorrectly?

Check it this way and see how it is: Unload the gun, cock the hammer, then lower it with your thumb while pulling the trigger all the way back, and maintain that position. Now check the cylinder.


When I do that the cylinder locks up perfectly. I assume the revolver is functional?
 
Posts: 378 | Registered: November 06, 2013Reply With QuoteReport This Post
I started with nothing,
and still have most of it
Picture of stiab
posted Hide Post
quote:
Originally posted by DeputyCG:
quote:
Originally posted by stiab:
quote:
Originally posted by DeputyCG: Now when I fully cock the revolver it locks almost perfectly (almost no movement) but on double action, there is definitely some movement. Is there a possibility that I reassembled it incorrectly?

Check it this way and see how it is: Unload the gun, cock the hammer, then lower it with your thumb while pulling the trigger all the way back, and maintain that position. Now check the cylinder.


When I do that the cylinder locks up perfectly. I assume the revolver is functional?

Yes, the way I described is the proper way to check it, other ways may give you false impressions.


"While not every Democrat is a horse thief, every horse thief is a Democrat." HORACE GREELEY
 
Posts: 1858 | Location: Central NC | Registered: May 18, 2005Reply With QuoteReport This Post
Member
posted Hide Post
I gotta tell you, this is the first time in 26 years I haven't had a smith in the safe. I have a .38 LCR and it has really pushed the need for a j frame out of the picture. I have had 100 smiths come and go over the years but always thought a j frame was a necessity. Not that they are bad guns, (I carried one many times) but with the lcr I have a better trigger (without having to install the Wilson spring kit) , better sights, the barrel cannot be over locked, and its a little lighter (albeit a little bigger with the Hogue grips). I have been shooting it a lot, and the accuracy is excellent.
It may be ugly but it sure as hell fills the pocket revolver role well
 
Posts: 539 | Registered: August 09, 2014Reply With QuoteReport This Post
Member
posted Hide Post
Lets clarify some of the terms being mentioned.

First, End Shake is the Front to Rear travel of the cylinder when the cylinder is closed and should be checked using shims between the barrel and face of the cylinder with the revolver NOT cocked. The procedure is to apply pressure to hold the cylinder forward and find the valve shim that just slides into place. Then hold the cylinder to the rear and find the shim that will just slide in between cylinder and barrel. The total End Shake is the difference between the thicker and thinner shims and should be less than 0.003 inch. Please read that procedure again a time or two because many people get this difference measurement confused with the B/C Gap. BTW the B/C gap is measured with the cylinder held to the rear.

Side to side travel is normally not measured. Because the S&W is a Combat Revolver and designed to function after being dropped in a muddy trench. This means that there is a designed in CLEARANCE between the cylinder stop and cylinder and this will produce some free play. As a result there is some noticeable free play when the revolver is uncocked. This free play will tighten up considerably when the revolver is cocked because that engages the Hand with the ratchets and this actually will shift the cylinder towards the cylinder stop face. However when full cocked there is a small amount of remaining clearance and if you get real fussy you may see a tiny bit of movement in the cylinder. In my experience the total movement at full cock can range from no visible movement up to perhaps the thickness of a thin sheet of paper. If there is more movement than that I would recommend you have a gunsmith give it a looking over because wear to the hand will result in increased movement at full cock. Note when the hammer is down the free ply will typically fall between 1/64 and 1/32 inch.

Having read your reply's I suspect that what you are seeing has always been there, you just noticed it now because you were looking your revolver over closely.


I've stopped counting.
 
Posts: 5642 | Location: Michigan | Registered: November 07, 2008Reply With QuoteReport This Post
Member
posted Hide Post
quote:
Originally posted by Scooter123:
Lets clarify some of the terms being mentioned.

First, End Shake is the Front to Rear travel of the cylinder when the cylinder is closed and should be checked using shims between the barrel and face of the cylinder with the revolver NOT cocked. The procedure is to apply pressure to hold the cylinder forward and find the valve shim that just slides into place. Then hold the cylinder to the rear and find the shim that will just slide in between cylinder and barrel. The total End Shake is the difference between the thicker and thinner shims and should be less than 0.003 inch. Please read that procedure again a time or two because many people get this difference measurement confused with the B/C Gap. BTW the B/C gap is measured with the cylinder held to the rear.

Side to side travel is normally not measured. Because the S&W is a Combat Revolver and designed to function after being dropped in a muddy trench. This means that there is a designed in CLEARANCE between the cylinder stop and cylinder and this will produce some free play. As a result there is some noticeable free play when the revolver is uncocked. This free play will tighten up considerably when the revolver is cocked because that engages the Hand with the ratchets and this actually will shift the cylinder towards the cylinder stop face. However when full cocked there is a small amount of remaining clearance and if you get real fussy you may see a tiny bit of movement in the cylinder. In my experience the total movement at full cock can range from no visible movement up to perhaps the thickness of a thin sheet of paper. If there is more movement than that I would recommend you have a gunsmith give it a looking over because wear to the hand will result in increased movement at full cock. Note when the hammer is down the free ply will typically fall between 1/64 and 1/32 inch.

Having read your reply's I suspect that what you are seeing has always been there, you just noticed it now because you were looking your revolver over closely.


Scooter123, I am POSITIVE you are correct. Since changing the springs on my J frame, I have been looking at the gun much more closely, noting the details and idiosyncrasies of it. I plan to shoot it this Thursday and am confident it will shoot just fine.

Thank you for all of the replies.
 
Posts: 378 | Registered: November 06, 2013Reply With QuoteReport This Post
  Powered by Social Strata  
 

SIGforum.com    Main Page  Hop To Forum Categories  SIG Pistols    Reassembled my Smith and Wesson J frame cylinder and now...end shake!

© SIGforum 2024