I picked up a used P229 DAK yesterday. A quick field strip before purchase revealed that the previous owner was pretty liberal with the grease.

After I got it home for a closer look, I realized I was looking at (probably) years of repeatedly added grease on the thing – A detail strip showed there's a caked mixture of grease/dirt/powder pretty much everywhere.

I'm thinking about putting the frame and all the metal parts in a container and hitting them with automotive degreaser. Any chance of that harming the anodized frame or anything?

Pics: https://imgur.com/a/MESPH6N

I have used spray cans of automotive brake cleaner to remove caked grease and crud from used firearms. Hit the parts with the spray, allow it to work for a minute, then scrub with an old toothbrush. Might take two or three treatments.

Purchased a dozen or more old US M1 Garand and Springfield rifles from Civilian Marksmanship Program. Usually delivered with a very heavy application of cosmolene preservative grease. Detail-strip, then clean with mineral spirits, toothbrush, cleaning rod and patches. Best to work in the open air, not indoors. Disposable rubber gloves are handy.

Another vote for mineral spirits. I clean off old grease with mineral spirits, wipe clean and the re-grease.

Sounds good. Thanks, both.

Solvent yes, degreaser, no.

Many of the degreasers out there are not appropriate for use on aluminum.

Stoddard solvent (mineral spirits) works fine. Hoppes 9 is a good choice.

Be careful around painted surfaces (some sights), plastics (some grips, some sights, etc), rubber (some sights, etc). A number of solvents can damage those.

Likewise, brake cleaner works well, evaporates with little residue, and breaks up grease, but can attack some surfaces and finishes.

An old toothbrush and mineral spirits will remove old grease and powder buildup.

When I get ahold of heavily greased firearms, such as surplus military rifles, I break them down, take them outside and pour hot water over them. Works like a charm and doesn't damage anything.

Purple (Heavy Duty) Simple Green is safe on aluminum.

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Si...0000413421/100550784

For a detail strip I just clean with CLP, degrease with denatured alcohol, then re-lube as appropriate. Never had a problem even with caked up used pistols.

quote:

Originally posted by sns3guppy:
Solvent yes, degreaser, no.

Many of the degreasers out there are not appropriate for use on aluminum.

Stoddard solvent (mineral spirits) works fine. Hoppes 9 is a good choice.

Be careful around painted surfaces (some sights), plastics (some grips, some sights, etc), rubber (some sights, etc). A number of solvents can damage those.

Likewise, brake cleaner works well, evaporates with little residue, and breaks up grease, but can attack some surfaces and finishes.

An old toothbrush and mineral spirits will remove old grease and powder buildup.

I have used nonclorinated brake cleaner on every Sig in their line for the last 18 years. Never an issue with parts or sights. A coating of CLP or Frog Lube brings back the finish to like new.



It is sprayed on and wiped off withing a few minutes. The part or firearm never soaks in it.

I've been using a lot of this product recently:
Sea-Foam Deep Creep
It cuts caked-on carbon deposits and old grease like crazy.
Excellent stuff!

I think we may have bought a P229 from the same guy.

Mine was so caked up, had to use a gasket scraper on the hammer and trigger bar.

For the internals, it only came off with brake cleaner.

Degreaser should do fine.

quote:

Originally posted by JonDaddy82:
Purple (Heavy Duty) Simple Green is safe on aluminum.

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Si...0000413421/100550784

I used that stuff to clean AR parts in my ultra sonic cleaner and my charging handle came out without any of the anodization.. I wouldn’t use the stuff

Non-chlorinated brake cleaner followed by Hoppes followed by grease on slides and oil on pivots, and a light coat of remoil spray on everything when finished. Wipe that down and done.

Gun will run like it is brand new.

Diesel, kerosene, CLP, Hoppes, mineral oil, tiki lamp oil, all will be fine.

Dawn and hot water and a toothbrush.

Don’t let stuff soak in simple green. We had a BM2 use full strength simple green on two M9s and let it soak overnight…next day he had two bare aluminum frames….I dunno if he also used a ultrasonic cleaner or not, once he was caught he quit talking and got placed on report..he wound up going to mast (art.15) and got reduced in rank for destruction of government property. He proceeded to sink a rigid hull inflatable boat in the surf a few months later…he got sent to a ship right after..

Hoppes and a couple brushes did the trick. Thanks all.

Sadly, not enough folks know that Simple Green will strip aluminum badly if left on it.

If you apply, soak for a short time, then rinse thoroughly its ok. And thanks for the heads up on Purple Green.

I purchased a '64 Win 94 which was liberally caked with some kind of lube, and Gunblaster did the trick. It's a 4 hour teardown to clean one of those per the instructions. Not User Serviceable. Stuff ran out nasty the first two hosings. The action is a lot smoother now after lubing it the same way. Hosed it - there's no finesse trying to get lube into tiny crevices and rails.

For those using dechlorinated brake cleaner on other projects, be advised it will take off 75w-140 gear oil but it doesn't dilute it well in sumps aka differentials. You still have to mop it out with rags. It may take another can more than you might expect, too.

Hoppes for sure, its cheap enough and made for this, sure you can use other stuff but the savings are minimal.

edit in: I have used mineral spirits and hot water for getting Cosmoline/heavy grease off of military surplus stuff successfully.

Just have to remember to reapply some gun oil of some kind after (I like corrosionX and ballistol)

This message has been edited. Last edited by: Austin228,

Slip2000 725 Cleaner/degrease or rubbing alcohol.

Another vote for Hoppes and a toothbrush. I have used brake cleaner in the past and it is highly effective but make sure to do a full and complete re-lube. It takes off every scrap of protection to steel parts.