This is the stuff I'm currently using. It works quickly with no chemical odor.

https://sharpshootr.com/no-lead/

Back in the 80’s, I used Outers electrochemical bore cleaner. Fantastic!!! Required a rod, batteries and chemicals. I am surprised that everyone didn’t get one. In a few hours the barrel would be pristine.

quote:

Originally posted by Spudgun:
Fantastic!!!

Yes, they were. I haven’t used mine in a long time because they’re not really necessary for jacket fouling, but for lead: Impossible to equal.

A little update-
I soaked the barrel in AreoKroil overnight, then went at it with a new bore brush. I bought a new 12 pack of brushes when I got the kroil.
I dont know, 40-50 passes
Clean Patch.

The patch was grey.
Ok, it's coming out. Looked in the barrel, and you can still see chunks in the grooves. The lands are fine and flat, edges are crisp.

Worked on it again with the kroil and a brush for about 30 minutes.

Clean Patch
Still grey.

Hmmmm... got some things to do, then off to work, let it soak again.
12ish hours later, hit it a few times with a bore brush again, then a patch.
Still grey. Looked, there's still some chunks in the grooves.

What the?!?!? Hmmmm....

Worked on the barrel with a dry brush for about 15 minutes, then another clean patch.

BLACK.


DAMN THIS THING IS DIRTY!
And now my "stubborn" switch flipped. It's either me or the barrel, but one of us is going to win, and I wouldn't put your cash on the barrel! I'll scrub that dirty SOB until its a smooth bore BHP.

Some Choir Boy is on the list of things to get tomorrow!

Would have been nice to have pics of the bore before all the cleaning started. Then, the after pics.

For others interested who may be interested in the topic, when I use Hoppe’s for immersion cleaning (and it works better than Kroil by actual experiment), I leave the barrel soaking for at least three days if possible, and often significantly longer.

quote:

Originally posted by sigfreund:
For others interested who may be interested in the topic, when I use Hoppe’s for immersion cleaning (and it works better than Kroil by actual experiment), I leave the barrel soaking for at least three days if possible, and often significantly longer.

I've had good luck with this method as well. I take a long glass container (like white asperagus), fill it with Hoppes #9 (newer chemistry). Then I take a piece of wire with a hook at the end and enough length at the other end where I can fish it out. I slide it through the barrel and drop in the glass container. After a night or two, I get my pliers and take it out, brush and patch. Clean as a whistle.

quote:

Originally posted by 12131:
Would have been nice to have pics of the bore before all the cleaning started. Then, the after pics.

Not really, not only am I not that interesting, I'm not photogenic either.




I don't have a micro lense, which is about the only thing that might work.
I tried taking pictures with the iPhone, and none of them turned out..

quote:

Originally posted by sigfreund:
For others interested who may be interested in the topic, when I use Hoppe’s for immersion cleaning (and it works better than Kroil by actual experiment), I leave the barrel soaking for at least three days if possible, and often significantly longer.

3 days?!?
Now ya tell me!!!!

The family and I are leaving for a few days, looks like it might be soaking for about 6 days or so in Kroil.

M-Pro7 bore cleaner.Barrel will look like new with just one pass.hth

Let me share how I keep my HP (and other) barrels clean and rust free.

In a metal container (I say metal for good reason... a metal gallon paint can works perfectly... buy they for a couple of bucks at a paint store)) mix the following:

1 qt. Kerosene (deodorized is the best choice)

1.qt. Mineral Spirits

1 qt. Acetone

1 qt. Type 3 Automatic Transmission oil.

Keep tightly sealed when not in use. You may have to add more acetone as time passes because of rapid evaporation.

This stuff is a modernized version of the cleaner formula the late Gen. Julian Hatcher published around the time of WWI. Original ingredients no longer available such as sperm whale oil have had substituted products with similar characteristics readily available in today's market place...

Once I mix this stuff up, I pour it into one of the pans for changing motor oil you can buy at any auto parts store... it is not affected by the cleaner, which most plastic is...

You will see this called "Ed's Red' in some writing.

Anyway, I dis assemble the gun (or in your case just the barrel) and remove wood or rubber grips. I then submerge the gun and it's parts in a wire colander you can guy at any Target Store on the cheap. I let the parts soak a couple of hours and then clean carefully with an old toothbrush.

For bores, I cut copper gauze scouring pads into squares about the size of cleaning patches... I then wrap the copper gauze around a well worn bore brush. NOTE: Be certain you get copper scouring pads, steel and steel with brass coating are also on the market... and should be avoided.

Clean the bore with the brush wrapped in copper gauze flushing the barrel in the oil pan full of the solvent you made. Repeat several times.

Once you finish you can pour the solvent back into the paint can and seal tightly.

You will be amazed at how much lead, coopper, powder and carbon you will find in the bottom of the oil pan.

Once I'm ready to brush and wipe down the gun and parts I'm working on all I have to do is lift the wire basket out of the solvent. Once finished I let the gun drain on a pile of newspapers overnight. You will find you have not only cleaned your gun, but oiled it internally as well...

Another benefit: A gallon is pretty cheap to make...

FWIW

Chuck

Sweet's 7.62 bore cleaner is your friend when trying to clean lead/copper fouling. It's "good stuff Maynard".

https://www.brownells.com/gun-...00001-1404-5420.aspx

1/2 part hydrogen peroxide 1/2 part white vinegar soak over night, melts lead, properly dispose of lead contaminated solvent.

I have mostly used regular Hoppe's No. 9 with good results for most regular bore cleaning

Hoppe's Copper Solvent is even better, and I recommend it for serious work and it can dissolve the copper too.

https://www.brownells.com/gun-...4004-9807-25361.aspx

I also have used and keep Sweets 7.62 on hand, I feel like that stuff is even more toxic than Hoppe's though.

I also use a CorrosionX product called Bore cleaner.

https://www.corrosionx.com/collections/sporting-goods

quote:

Originally posted by 9mmman:
1/2 part hydrogen peroxide 1/2 part white vinegar soak over night, melts lead, properly dispose of lead contaminated solvent.

This combo works great on my muzzleloaders as well GOOD old school method that works great

Now with PICTURES!





After about 20 passes with a bore brush.

quote:

Originally posted by MikeinNC:
Kroil

Plug the barrel, fill it up, let it sit overnight,brass brush in the morning.

.

What he said - Kroil

quote:

Originally posted by sigfreund:
For others interested who may be interested in the topic, when I use Hoppe’s for immersion cleaning (and it works better than Kroil by actual experiment), I leave the barrel soaking for at least three days if possible, and often significantly longer.

I am interested. Does it do any damage to any type of finishes? Does the entire barrel need to me immersed or can you immerse half and rotate it every several hours? What about chrome bores?

Bruce

quote:

Originally posted by RNshooter:
Does it do any damage to any type of finishes? Does the entire barrel need to me immersed or can you immerse half and rotate it every several hours? What about chrome bores?

I have used the method for years with SIG barrels mostly, but on occasion S&W M&P barrels. Finishes were conventional blue and old and new Nitron. Despite having left the barrels immersed for more than a week at times, the solvent has never damaged the finish. I even queried the Hoppe’s people and was told that my practice would not cause any damage. To reiterate, though, I only use traditional Hoppe's #9; other solvents might cause damage.

I would not, however, use the process with chrome-lined bores. For years it has been reported that soaking nickel-plated parts in Hoppe’s can result in discoloration or even separation of the plating from the base metal. Whether that would apply to chrome, I don’t know, but I personally don’t take the chance.

Immersing it part way and rotating would be fine, I believe. Although I don’t know that it would matter, I would keep the container capped as I always do because I don’t like the smell. Perhaps it’s possible some sort of reaction could occur at the interface between the solvent and the air. I doubt that, but it’s not something I have any experience with. Because my full size P320 barrels are almost as long as the interior of the containers I use, the end of the chamber section is normally not covered, and I’ve never seen any issues.

I use wide mouth 250ml (~8 ounce) Nalgene bottles for my immersion cleaning. Mine have held the “traditional” Hoppe’s #9 for decades without any deterioration and they are just deep enough for the full size 4.7" P320 barrels. Nalgene bottles are popular with backpackers and are sold at REI and similar places along with being available on line.

I may use a half-pint mason jar for my Glock barrels. Few of the have ever had a deep cleaning.

Bruce