Long story short-
I recently purchased another BHP at a decent price. It's a shooter grade and just needed a little tender loving care (and a lot of elbow grease!)

But that barrel...

It's not pitted. I checked it with a jewelers loop, and had 2 others look at it as well, we all say the same thing- really bad lead & carbon fouling in the barrel. Like REALLY BAD!

I've used CLP, break cleaner and engine cleaning solution and nitro solvent.
I soaked it in WD40 for about 12 hrs, scrubbed.
Soaked it in gasoline for about 12 hrs, scrubbed.
2 barrel brushes later...
S l o w l y it's getting better. But there's still chunks in the grooves.


Anyone have any tips, tricks or clues on how to get the (cement like) carbon out?

This message has been edited. Last edited by: CPD SIG,

Lewis Lead Remover on Bing Images (No personal experience, just heard of it.)

Lewis lead remover is useful.

Any lead fouling cannot be dissolved chemically (that is to say, any of the cleaning chemicals that you'll find will not dissolve lead). It must be removed mechanically, using a bore brush. It can be loosened or aided in being removed mechanically, using chemicals, but they will not dissolve it (unlike copper).

I'm a huge fan of AeroKroil, the stuff in the orange can (or bottle).

Some bore brushes work much better than others. Otis brushes have more bristles than most others, and work considerably better at lead fouling.

Avoid nylon or steel brushes, regardless of what you read or hear.

Soak the barrel bore overnight in Kroil. Use a quality bronze brush. Scrub in one direction (breech to muzzle: eg, pull-through, rather back-and-forth with a rod). Don't use anything powered.

Some swear by using ATF.

Once the fouling is out, or close to out, I've used JB Bore paste before to get the final passes, and then a cleaning with solvent, bore brushes and patches after. Don't overdo on the bore paste. Occasional use will help reduce fouling however.

I reload a lot of coated lead, and get no fouling; I have to clean after copper or lead, but not coated bullets (I shoot Bayou and Blue Bullets). I can shoot thousands of rounds and find virtually no fouling in the barrel; a few passes with a bit of color from the coating, and the barrel is clean and bright.

You might also try some bronze wool. You can wrap it around the bore brush (a few strands is enough). There are bronze scrub pads which will provide the material you need, and they're inexpensive. Don't use steel.

The Lewis Lead Remover uses bronze mesh patches for this purpose, and works extremely well. It's more aggressive than a bronze brush, without doing harm. It will clean the barrel.

The method I have used to clean autoloading pistol barrels for decades is to immerse them in a suitable container filled with Hoppe’s #9—the original version, not something they call by the same name. When I bought my first Ruger in 357 Magnum and fired a box of unjacketed 158 grain SWC loads with it, the bore leaded up so bad that I couldn’t see the rifling. I plugged the bore, filled it with the Hoppe’s, and left it for a week. After that time the lead brushed out in long strips.

I believe the formula for the solvent has changed over time and it’s not so good at removing lead, but immersing for a week or so will still probably work in conjunction with a bronze brush when you get to it. This chemical method works very well for jacketed bullet fouling with no harsh scrubbing or using abrasive methods. If I leave a barrel that’s been used to fire a couple of hundred rounds in a session in the solvent for several days, all that’s usually required to remove all the fouling is a cloth patch on a tight jag. A badly-neglected barrel may require more than one session and the assistance of a brush, but that should be all.

Kroil

Plug the barrel, fill it up, let it sit overnight,brass brush in the morning.

At one time, I used to buy (or have them gifted) old .22 rifles that I re-habbed and sold.
The primary problem with them was accumulated dirt and crud and leaded up barrels.
sns3guppy pretty much covered my process.

Well, guess who just ordered some AeroKroil!
(and a few more bore brushes)


This isn't the first time this place has recommended it.

Is it really that much different or better than WD40 or BP Blaster?

How about ultrasonic cleaning?

quote:

Originally posted by CPD SIG:


Is it really that much different or better than WD40 or BP Blaster?

Yes. Toolbox in a can.

Kroil is awesome stuff, and I didn't even know it was great for removing lead. I use it to dissolve rust off of wherever I find it.

Living where I do, moisture is an issue and a fairly constant fight to keep guns from getting rusty. I've got an aluminum BBQ pan in the garage with some magazines and random small parts in it that I've been hosing down with Kroil for a few weeks now. They're just about good to go. Thanks for you guys passing the knowledge about using it to clean bores. Good stuff.

Boretech .
No fumes--, cuts the carbon and lead as described.

https://www.boretech.com/media...n_Guide_WebReady.jpg

I recently added their ultrasonic cleaner to my workbench--really pleased.

Midway has some of their product line in stock at less than MRSP.

I have tested Kroil using the same extended immersion method for cleaning. It works, but not as well as the Hoppe's. If it doesn't do the job, I recommend trying the #9.

Another vote for Boretech. The stuff works great and doesn’t have a heavy chemical smell. I use their Eliminator bore cleaner.

I wrap copper Chor-Boy around one of my bore brushes. This along with Hoppes No 9 removes the lead and carbon fouling. It might take a couple of applications, but it has worked for me.

The Lewis Lead Remover is good-to-go also.

HTH.

quote:

Originally posted by CPD SIG:
Is it really that much different or better than WD40 or BP Blaster?

It is a much better penetrant, than WD40 or PB..

I use it for gun cleaning. You can’t use it on nickeled guns as it will get under the plating if there are scratches.

And it’s a lousy lubricant, but it will get under lead in a barrels rifling.

quote:

Originally posted by wxdave:
How about ultrasonic cleaning?

It pains me to say “I used to.”
Good friend and shooting buddy of mine had the Hornaday one. He passed away earlier this year. 45min would have probably worked perfectly.

I can’t clean a gun without thinking about Mike...


For the rest here, THANKS for the information!
Like I said, I have the Kroil on order, some extra brushes as well.
I’ll keep yous posted on how it works out.

Get some brass chore boy pads. Cut some strands off and wrap them around an old bore brush and have at it.

The lead will come out.

Bob

The Lewis Lead Remover is a tool that anyone who shoots lead or buys old weapons should have. While the 'wrap' does work for the greater number of lead removal cases you sometimes need the 'extra' abrasion action of the Lewis! Get the one specific to your caliber and add to it as needed. A solvent or solution like Kroil or brake cleaner does work but they are need 'time' to work. Think about how water has changed the world!

Also note there are stainless steel cleaning brushes on the market and may be the only solution!

All the firearms operator manuals I have seen in recent years specifically caution against using steel bore brushes because of the damage they can cause.

quote:

Originally posted by curnarski:
I wrap copper Chor-Boy around one of my bore brushes. This along with Hoppes No 9 removes the lead and carbon fouling. It might take a couple of applications, but it has worked for me.

The Lewis Lead Remover is good-to-go also.

HTH.

Same here, I've used the Chore Boy Pure Copper pads for decades. They are 100% copper, which is important. Some of the "similar" pads are actually steel coated with a copper wash. Will scratch.

Wrap a smaller diameter old bore brush with a piece of Chore Boy. May have to play with the diameter a little. Does a very good job.

Have also used the Lewis. The Chore Boy does the same thing only cheaper.