Yes, you will buy a Glock. Never thought I would, but I did. An MOS 19 and I am ready to mount the RMR. Have done lots of reading here and elsewhere, and have a question about the advice to “slobber”
the base of the mount in dielectric grease. Does that mean a layer of grease on the side of the plate that comes with the Trijicon AC32064 kit that faces the RMR itself? Glock suggests a drop of oil on each side of the Glock plate as well.

Also have seen suggestions to use VibraTite VC-3 rather than blue locktite on the screws. Thoughts on that?

I’m asking all the questions now to avoid getting hit on the forehead again by a flying RMR. Never trust that the guy you bought the pistol from did it right . . .

Thanks.

* edited to correct typographical errors

I put blue loctite on the screws and I'm doing just fine. You'll need to pull the rmr to get new batteries in so dont go too nuts but if you install per Glocks instructions you should be fine to my knowledge.

I've heard good things about the C&H plate which appears to give a tighter fit for RMRs.

Congrats on a fine choice of carry pistol. Now lets see if you can be the first person to stop them from multiplying.

quote:

Originally posted by Tgrshrk99:
Yes, you will buy a Glock.

Well, yeah.

quote:

Also have seen suggestions to use VibraTite VC-3 rather than blue lock rite on the screws. Thoughts on that?

Yes, I absolutely love Vibra-Tite. Unlike Loctite, Vibra-Tite is rubbery, and it allows you to easily remove screws and screw them back in place several times before you would need to refresh the Vibra-Tite. Unlike Loctite, you can actually prep screws in advance with Vibra-Tite.

If your installation is permanent, and I do mean permanent permanent, then you can use Loctite, but if there is any chance at all that you will ever unscrews those screws, use Vibra-Tite.

All of my scope mount screws are prepped with Vibra-Tite. Ever try to get every last bit of Loctite out of screw threads? The stuff is like concrete, but Vibra-Tite is a rubbery substance and you can peel every last bit of it off of screws.

Interesting. I see a few different products offered by them...which variation of Vibra-Tite do you recommend?

VC-3

OK here's what I know from >50K rounds of RMR MOS experience.
1. Make sure you have a type 2 RMR.
2. Use the AC32064 parts, including the screws and plate.
3 add DIELECTRIC grease to the side of the plate supporting the RMR (i.e. the top). No need to slobber it, just a thin layer.
3. Mount the screws with VC-3 (note be sure to let it dry before mounting). Locktite blue will also do, but its a pain when you have to change batteries as you have to get it off, reprime and then move forward. Its actually probably a bit better then VC-3 for this application, but since I'm going to periodically just check tension on these screws VC-3 is easier overall.
4. TORQUE using a precision instrument (not your uncle's guess, something with a pedigree) to 9-12 INCH POUNDS.
And with that you will be fine till you need a battery or you win your nations matches...

Thanks all. VC-3 has been ordered.

quote:

Originally posted by parabellum:

quote:

Originally posted by Tgrshrk99:
Yes, you will buy a Glock.

Well, yeah.

quote:

Also have seen suggestions to use VibraTite VC-3 rather than blue lock rite on the screws. Thoughts on that?

Yes, I absolutely love Vibra-Tite. Unlike Loctite, Vibra-Tite is rubbery, and it allows you to easily remove screws and screw them back in place several times before you would need to refresh the Vibra-Tite. Unlike Loctite, you can actually prep screws in advance with Vibra-Tite.

If your installation is permanent, and I do mean permanent permanent, then you can use Loctite, but if there is any chance at all that you will ever unscrews those screws, use Vibra-Tite.

All of my scope mount screws are prepped with Vibra-Tite. Ever try to get every last bit of Loctite out of screw threads? The stuff is like concrete, but Vibra-Tite is a rubbery substance and you can peel every last bit of it off of screws.

I didn't know that prepped stuff is Vibratite.

Thanks to all!

Where can I buy Vibratite? Home Depot, Brownells?

Thanks

I just ordered some from amazon as I was reading this thread

quote:

Originally posted by dry-fly:
Where can I buy Vibratite? Home Depot, Brownells?

Thanks

Thanks!

I strongly believe that the instructions included with the MOS are lacking in important info which could help MOS user avoid the commonly reported issues with the MOS platform. Glock does not list any specific torque values in the manual, and only specifies "Hand tight ONLY". Considering there is thousands, possibly tens of thousands of MOS Glocks in circulation currently, its safe to say that you're going to get a huge variation in what "Hand tight ONLY" means to everyone out there installing optics on these guns.

The other issue is that Glock specifies referring to the optic sight manufacturer's suggestions on which screws to use for a RDS mounting on the MOS platform. Thats not gonna work out for everyone because I don't think any specific RDS manufacturer states exactly which screws are required for proper installation of their sight onto the MOS platform. For example, If you buy a Trijicon RMR there are two mounting screws included in the box with the RMR. These are the incorrect screws to use for mounting the RMR on the MOS. They are too long and will cause a impingement issue with the MOS adapter plate and the slide. Trijicon does sell a completely separate sealing plate kit with the proper length screws for mounting an RMR onto the MOS, but its not specified anywhere in the Glock MOS instruction manual or in the Trijicon manual.


*Don't use Red or Blue Loctite brand thread adhesive. (*Blue isn't strong enough and Red Loctite is too strong and will result in stripped out screw heads)

*Only use VibraTite brand VC-3 thread sealant.

*Degrease the threads of the screws before applying the VibraTite VC-3

*Let the VibraTite VC-3 dry for at least 45mins before installing the screws.

*Get a torque wrench and install both the adapter plate and the RMR screws with 14-15 INCH lbs of torque. I've use the inexpensive Wheeler Fat Wrench without any issues.

*Do NOT use the two mounting screws that come included in the box with the Trjicon RMR for mounting on an MOS.

The C&H mounting plates are the way to go if mounting an RMR, Holosun or Leopold DPP on an MOS.

If you don’t use the C&H plate, order the proper length screws for your desired RDS. BattleWerx.com sells RDS and MOS adapter plate screws for every RDS combination you can think of. If you are mounting a Trijicon RMR you can just purchase the Trijicon brand AC32064 "RMR Mounting Kit Fort Glock MOS" which includes the proper length screws.

Some of the screws came with blue loctite (or some other substance in the case of the screws that came with the Trijicon mounting plate) already on them. Best way to remove? Denatured alcohol was not effective.

I can confirm to be careful with the hand tightening

I have broken two MOS plates while just hand tightening screws

I admit I am larger than the average human by quite a bit

Following for future reference

quote:

Originally posted by Kevbo:
I can confirm to be careful with the hand tightening

I have broken two MOS plates while just hand tightening screws

I admit I am larger than the average human by quite a bit

A good reminder. I have an inch-pound torque wrench/driver, so that base is covered.

Based on my experience I use locktite on the mos plate screws as I don't normally remove them. "not strong enough" simply isn't technically correct given these two products locktite is substantially superior in a non removal application. I use VC3 on the RMR mount screws since you have to remove it for the battery swap and its trivial to check if they are secure. On the MOS mount screws I would consider 14-15 inlb to be much higher than is normally recommended for this fastener size and suggest you be in the 9-11 inlb range. I do not have them loosen despite much abuse. Its also pretty clear that glock did not want to spend anything extra to get a decent fastener.
I would also strongly recommend that anyone using an actual RMR get and use the plate that Trijicon includes in the MOS mounting kit and not just chase down the (also required) shorter screws.

This message has been edited. Last edited by: hrcjon,

quote:

Originally posted by hrcjon:
Based on my experience I use locktite on the mos plate screws as I don't normally remove them. "not strong enough" simply isn't technically correct given these two products locktite is substantially superior in a non removal application. I use VC3 on the RMR mount screws since you have to remove it for the battery swap and its trivial to check if they are secure. On the MOS mount screws I would consider 14-15 inlb to be much higher than is normally recommended for this fastener size and suggest you be in the 9-11 inlb range. I do not have them loosen despite much abuse. Its also pretty clear that glock did not want to spend anything extra to get a decent fastener.
I would also strongly recommend that anyone using an actual RMR get and use the plate that Trijicon includes in the MOS mounting kit and not just chase down the (also required) shorter screws.

I completed assembly last night. 12 inch pounds of torque on the Glock MOS plate screws and 12 inch pounds on the RMR screws. I used the Trijicon kit (thin mounting plate + 2 screws). My challenge was that all 4 screws already had some type of thread sealant already on them - blue Loctite on the MOS screws and something brown on the RMR screws. None of the solvents I have took it off. Do you guys use the VC3 over existing “factory” thread sealant and if not, what do you use to clean the screws before installation?

I will see how it holds together tonight. I blocked the MOS screws with a bit of wiring harness tape so I’m not very concerned about them backing out (+, blue Loctite on them). I marked the RMR screws with a silver sharpie so hopefully I will notice if they begin to loosen before the RMR flies off the slide.

According to the GLOCK Accompanying Sheet MOS Adapter Plates the optimum torque is 13.1 inch lbs.