So one of my passions is just bringing guns back to life, I've always got a few in the queue and every now and then get finish one. I always buy them broken or incomplete, a gunsmith special usually.

So for your enjoyment and critique, a restored Browning BDA 380.

The before pictures show it looking complete, but it was missing a few internal components.





After a complete disassembly, I get to work removing the anodizing and blending any nicks and if possible making the lines on the trigger guard and other areas crisp. The frame was Cerakoted and brushed after curing which ended up giving the Cerakote just a bit of a sheen.

The slide was cleaned and brushed to remove all the rust. No major pitting was found, some sanding in a few areas was needed to help lessen the air etched number on the slide. Then it was rust blued 6 times.

The wood grips were the most stubborn part and took more harsh measures to get all the varnish off. They were then re-shaped due to the gouges. I applied Tung oil and steel wooled them.

The medallions are just too expensive for me to worry about right now and I may end up trying to recreate one on a CNC mill, but I thought it might look neat of a coin would fit there too.

That turned out awesome! Nice work, I love a good restoration project, and the BDA is an interesting piece just because of what it is. Your grips look great...I like the coin idea.

Looking good!

Why strip the anodizing, though? Won't that affect strength and longevity?

Every time I see one used I handle it, come close to buying one, and never do. I have come across a half dozen over the last couple years. All in good shape and a couple were nickel.
Yours is cool, will you shoot it once your done working on it ?

Marksman41, I had to do something with the frame it had too many bare spots and scratches. But I only sandblasted it so it’s unlikely I removed all the anodizing. That’s a good question though, I’m pretty sure it’s not type III anodizing so it’s likely only anodized for asthetics and corrosion resistance. The Cerakote should be a suitable replacement for the original finish in that regards.

Longjohn, I’ll test fire it and see if the sights need to be adjusted or if there is any accuracy potential left in it. But I really just do this for fun and I’ll likely put it up for sale somewhere.

I use to go into a sporting goods store at the mall called Oshman’s. Believe it or not, they sold guns…yes this was a long time ago. Anyway, I was a kid and always oogled at the Browning BDA .380 in the case, just like yours. Man did I lust after that Browning! I haven’t seen one in a long time, nice piece!

quote:

Originally posted by policetruck:
I’m pretty sure it’s not type III anodizing so it’s likely only anodized for asthetics and corrosion resistance.

Did not know that.

I was relating it to a P6 I sent to Robar years ago. It had a SIG action package performed before going to Robar The gun looks and functions great but I didn't know that the Robar refinish process meant stripping the frame of its structural(?) anodizing.

Only after joining SIGforum and getting some education did I realize my mistake. I relearned the lesson about assuming because I assumed Robar would not perform, or at least let me know of, any service that would reduce the integrity of a firearm.

So, in my case, I didn't know what I didn't know, and thinking there was only one type of anodizing for aluminum frames when there isn't proves I still have more to learn.

Hard to believe this is the same gun.

I'm assuming you did hot bluing.

BB61, Rust Bluing.

I wanted one back in the day. (90s)
It had a higher capacity than the PPK.
But all I caould afford was a used Taurus PT99AF.

quote:

Originally posted by policetruck:
BB61, Rust Bluing.

You sand blasted the whole gun, or just the frame? Then you cerakoted the frame? Did you do that yourself? And then you rust blued the slide.

BTW, your link at the bottom doesn't work.

Nice looking gun, btw. Kudos.

Biker_dude, Sand blasted the the frame and the slide. But I can go back and smooth up some of the surfaces on the slide because the rust bluing isn't dependent on a surface finish like the Cerakote.

Yes I did all this work myself. And yes thank your for the reminder, I need to fix the link.

Thanks for the response. I ask because I have a Toledo PD sig 226 I often carry. I've thought about redecorating it but am getting used to it's time worn look. Other than replacing springs and grip (Hogue finger groove) it's still vintage.

But if I could do what you did......

Nice job, btw.

The after looks great! Dad bought one way back in the late 80's for Mom, pretty sure it was "new" or as close as you could get. The slide would bite her hand with that small almost horizontal beavertail, she never could get used to it. He unfortunately sold it off. Your finished product looks really good, enjoy it.

quote:

Originally posted by 94hokie:
The slide would bite her hand

I had a Llama 380 that would leave the fleshy part of my hand twixt index finger and thumb bloody.

Amazing work

Nice looking resto.

I often lusted after a BDA.

Looks like a Beretta from a distance. The right side even has "PB" and "Made in Italy" roll mark.

Biker_dude, you should try, it's easy but time consuming.

There are a lot of videos on youtube, and several different recipes for the rusting agent. The most important thing is the prep. Keep everything clean (you can literally wash it off with dawn in between coatings), and even coatings of the rusting agent.

It'll work with most water types too, but I find distilled to be the best.