I'll join the growing chorus that has had no such issues with my P365, either ejection or trigger.

Those aren't P365 design defects... They're defects with your ammo and/or that gun.

Yeah, calling the trigger not living up to his liking the other "design defect" is utterly ridiculous.

I'm no drinker of the P365 Kool-Aid myself, but I've never heard anybody complain about the trigger pull before. And I've definitely never heard the trigger compared negatively to that of a polymer Ruger semi-auto.

That’s because this entire thread is absurd.

The man has a problem with his pistol and assumed it's a problem with all P365s. Discuss it or don't discuss it, but be cool.

Hey OP, I just noticed you’re in MI. If you’re in SE MI and want someone else to shoot the pistol in question and you want to try someone else’s P365 to compare, send me a message. I think my buddy has one or two (maybe one is an XL? I don’t remember) as well for a larger sample size.

Regarding lack of slide overrun on Sig P365’s…

Sorry for your troubles OP.

Oh, and Les Baer Commanche says ”Hello”.

I shoot 147 grain Federal HST without issue.

Ruger autos are garbage.

All the replies have convinced me that there is either something wrong in my technique or with the pistol. Pulling the slide in slow motion seems to indicate that the ejector might me too far forward because the bullet starts swinging a bit before it's clear of the barrel. However looking at the ejector and it's part produced by a progressive stamping process, so a one off defect is highly unlikely and it appears to be completely free of defects.

This leads me to conclude that I must be doing something wrong. So I will describe how I normally clear a semi auto. First I eject and remove the magazine. Then I rotate the pistol so that its upside down with my right hand cupped over the ejection port while I retract the slide. On my LC9S's, P239's, P229, XDM, and 1911 pistols this method works very well and I don't have to pick up the round off the floor.

So if some of you guys uses the same method to clear the P365 please chime in and let me know that this is not the cause.

The other potential issue is the mild Arthritis in my wrists. It does limit my speed a bit using the cupped hand method to catch the cleared round. What I have found to work at present is to hold the pistol vertical and use a pinch grip to fling the bullet on the floor.

I can’t speak to the 365 but I have cleared numerous pistols as you describe. Hand over ejection port to catch the round…unless of course I cool guy it and do the launch and catch thing.

That said itty bitty pistols are typically really heavily sprung and I am GUESSING that you simply might not be giving her enough ooomph to overcome the spring all the way. I am only offering a plausible answer and am in no way impugning your skill or experience and no offense is intended.

Try just yanking that sucker and letting the round fly, if that works then it’s probably your technique with that particular gun.

As for the trigger all the 365s and 320s I’ve handles have had really nice triggers for a striker gun. Now if your point of ref is an awesome 1911 or great revolver trigger or excellent DA gun then yeah the triggers can be a little meh.

Take care, shoot safe.
Chris

As an aside I am cracking up because I have told folks to “Take care, shoot safe” for a LONG time and I almost fat fingered my response to you with…..

“Take care, shoot self”. . Glad I caught that.

quote:

Originally posted by Scooter123:
All the replies have convinced me that there is either something wrong in my technique or with the pistol. Pulling the slide in slow motion seems to indicate that the ejector might me too far forward because the bullet starts swinging a bit before it's clear of the barrel. However looking at the ejector and it's part produced by a progressive stamping process, so a one off defect is highly unlikely and it appears to be completely free of defects.

This leads me to conclude that I must be doing something wrong. So I will describe how I normally clear a semi auto. First I eject and remove the magazine. Then I rotate the pistol so that its upside down with my right hand cupped over the ejection port while I retract the slide. On my LC9S's, P239's, P229, XDM, and 1911 pistols this method works very well and I don't have to pick up the round off the floor.

So if some of you guys uses the same method to clear the P365 please chime in and let me know that this is not the cause.

The other potential issue is the mild Arthritis in my wrists. It does limit my speed a bit using the cupped hand method to catch the cleared round. What I have found to work at present is to hold the pistol vertical and use a pinch grip to fling the bullet on the floor.

On some semi autos, if you don't retract the slide with enough authority, the extractor will lose its grip on the cartridge and result in the cartridge falling downward out of the extractor causing a malfunction -- especially if there is not magazine underneath it. This may be contributing to your problem.

^^^ Same thing with riding the slide to load a round. These things are designed to be manipulated with vigorous forces. You run into "issue", when you baby them.

This message has been edited. Last edited by: 12131,

I run GD 124+p in my 365 and carry with one in the chamber. Every time I go to the range I clear the round in the chamber. Never once had an issue manually clearing a GD or firing them in a 365. As this is my exact carry setup, it would be a problem for me if I saw any issues.

All my GDs are also nickel cased, factory loaded by Speer.

Perhaps you could retry this with a fresh box of factory loaded ammo and let us know what the results are.

+

quote:

Originally posted by Abn556:
I run GD 124+p in my 365 and carry with one in the chamber. Every time I go to the range I clear the round in the chamber. Never once had an issue manually clearing a GD or firing them in a 365. As this is my exact carry setup, it would be a problem for me if I saw any issues.

All my GDs are also nickel cased, factory loaded by Speer.

Perhaps you could retry this with a fresh box of factory loaded ammo and let us know what the results are.

+

I've done some very limited testing with the genuine Speer Gold Dots. However I get a bit nervous manipulating a live round trying to sort something like this out so I made up some reloads without any primer or powder and that is what is seen in the picture. Overall length and bullet weight is identical to the Speer cartridges as is the bullet. Because I'll shoot reloads when I want to test for function and skill without burning up ammo that now costs about 1 dollar per round.

Now take this for what’s it’s worth. I’ve never seen it happen. It seems plausible though so I accept it as reasonable. I have always read/been told that cupping your hand over the ejection port to catch the round is a potentially dangerous habit to get into. The thought is that if you hiccup the event it’s potentially possible to have the round catch on the ejector with force, acting somewhat like a firing pin and now you have an out of battery discharge OOBD event and your hand is catching the results.

It seems possible so I eject onto any available platform or just let it hit the floor or catch it cool guy style but never cup the ejection port.

Maybe that’s all internet nonsense but it makes enough sense that I don’t do it.

I hope you figure this out to your satisfaction, good luck. It is annoying when something doesn’t work the way we think it should. Been there.

^^^^^^^^^^

Well hell man, thanks for the nightmare fuel.

Seems plausible. That said way back in the day I came to the conclusion that when you are dealing with mini explosions you take on a certain amount of risk. I’ve seen some pretty weird and implausible things happen over the years though so I never rule a thing out 100%

You know what does scare the shit out of me though…..PCP air rifles. I have 2 and those compressed air cylinders at 3000 PSI give me the heebie jeebies if I let myself think about it. Those 4500 PSI full bottles really give me goosebumps.

Nope and nope. Aircraft use a lot of 3000 psi hydraulics and I have always had a very healthy respect for staying out of their reach. A 4500psi air cylinder in a BB gun? Excuse my language, but no fucking way. Lol

Short slide. Heavy springs. If you've got grip strength issues I can see it being a problem to run it with authority if you aren't paying attention to technique.

Hold the gun in the dominant hand. Grasp the side behind the ejection port with the support hand. DO NOT COVER THE EJECTION PORT. With the muzzle in a safe direction and the magazine removed, pull the slide to the rear with the support hand while pushing the pistol forward with the dominant hand. Do this forcefully. Let that chambered round hit the deck and pick it up once you've secured the now unloaded pistol. To chamber a round, insert a magazine and repeat the same process. Do not ride the slide forward. Release the slide and let it chamber the round under its full power.

We've always been taught that covering the ejection port could lead to a round being caught just right so the ejector hits the primer and sets it off. That COULD happen, but what is much more likely, especially with a small weapon with a short slide, it that the round will bounce off your hand and back into the port, causing a double feed if there is still a loaded magazine in the pistol. On an empty weapon you'd just find yourself fumbling around trying to shake that cartridge loose while everyone else on the line points and laughs.

I'll be honest, on a full size gun I usually catch the round as I eject it. On something as small as a p365 I let it drop. It's not the best practice, but we all have our bad habits.

I just recently was taught that ejections method of turning the pistol upside down and holding your hand under the ejection port. But that is a little harder to do a fast ejection.