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Member |
Finally got the gun and and converted it to DA/SA/decocker (no safety) and normal hammer (no more rebounding hammer). Not a simple conversion and not reversible. So....we're locked and loaded for a refinish. There's some rust freckling in the rear of the slide and a light scratch on the front left side so nothing lost in making this thing look good as new now. I plan to leave the trigger and hammer alone...they've weathered to plumb color which I like. | |||
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The SIG Kahuna |
I have one of these "Japanese Police" 7.65 P230s and would like to convert her to DA/SA decocker and normal hammer. How did you get instructions to do it? What parts do I need (I am a certified SIG armorer)? And I might have her refinished to electroless nickel (maybe). Many thanks for your reply, "Point Blank" Frank 8-) I miss Erhardt! | |||
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Member |
No instructions....just got a spare parts kit from eBay for $50 or so and tore it down to compare parts. The hammer on the safety gun is considerably machined to work. Parts list for what's needed: * hammer strut (the two retention spots are MUCH wider than a normal P230) * hammer (original is extensively machined for the safety) * hammer pin (JP model is extended for the safety) * grips * sear (original has a wing for the safety to block it) The detent and spring for the original safety are held in by a tiny set screw accessible inside the frame from the right side. I was able to back it out enough to allow grips to sit flush over it (or you could tap wood grips over top to dimple them if you wanted. The two major things that present an obstacle are the hump in the frame where the hammer lays back that houses the detent and spring. The hammer is considerably machine to clear it. The original hammer strut is a different design and will not work with a standard hammer so no point modifying one to work. So...when the tiny retention screw backed out and stop and then stripped, there was no going back. I took a Dremel with metal cutting bit and removed the hump inside the frame. Finished with a file to flatten and square it up and then AlumaBlack to darken the metal again. The replacement sear I got got some light stoning and fluff with Flitz and now I REALLY like the trigger. Hated the original setup. | |||
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Member |
I met the son of a good friend of my wife's. He used to work for a company that did gun finishing for Ruger and Sig. So, I guess that Sig at least America, Sig does not do their own finishing. The big thing is when he told me he could buy Sigs at manufacturers cost....and never bought any. I got sick to my stomach hearing that. NRA Life Endowment member Tri-State Gun collectors Life Member | |||
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Oriental Redneck |
So, which company was it that he worked for? Q | |||
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Member |
Lots of manufacturers sub out the work. I don't have a problem with that. Heck, if Sig subcontracted a hot blue job, I'd pay a premium to have a "factory refinished" moniker on the gun. But...I'm past the point of no return now on this one. | |||
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Oriental Redneck |
SIG does the blueing in-house. Special finishes like nickel are farmed out. Currently, they use a local refinisher to do the nickel plating. This is exactly what the CS supervisor told me. Q | |||
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Member |
proper hot blue??? Hmm...guess I will call them to check. | |||
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Member |
I will have my wife text her friend and ask her, what the name of that company was. He now lives near Toledo and is a fill in Postman. Will respond when I get the answer. NRA Life Endowment member Tri-State Gun collectors Life Member | |||
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Member |
Silvex Inc is the name of the company that does some Sig Finishing of their new guns. I do not have a problem with that, I just brought it up as a matter of informing. I still like my Sigs and their finishes. Silvex is in Maine where the guy I met worked. NRA Life Endowment member Tri-State Gun collectors Life Member | |||
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Oriental Redneck |
Thank you. I wonder if this is the "local" refinisher that the CS Supervisor told me about. Q | |||
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