I recently picked up a blued P230 that could benefit from a slide refinish. When Sig says it "re-blues", are they talking about a proper hot blue finish? I'd like to match the original finish vs. a nitron or other polymer finish.

Also...any downside to having Fogle's or other specialist do the work if I want a deep, shiny blue?

What's your goal with this gun? Collector value? Usability? If it's usability, then it doesn't make much difference as long as it's a reasonably quality job. Frankly, what I saw in the pictures, I'd carry it as is. Carrying is just going to wear on whatever finish it has. If on the other hand your after collector value, then anything you do is going to devalue the gun.

My 2 cents worth.

Sig refinished a P6 slide for me.
I couldn't distinguish it from a brand new factory finish.

Bruce

Sig re-blued a Tysons Corner P226 slide for me last year. I will be happy to send you pictures if you send me your email address. I was very pleased at the price, short turn-around and quality of the work.

quote:

Originally posted by RNshooter:
Sig refinished a P6 slide for me.
I couldn't distinguish it from a brand new factory finish.

Bruce

is it hot blued with depth? or monotone black finish?

The reason I'd have Sig do the work is for resale. That said, the gun is sans box, manual, target etc so minimal collect-ability. Going to be a shooter and occasionally carried.

I realize you said you wanted a blue vs spray on/ nitron finish, but my 2 cents worth.


I quit the re blue gun route many years ago, and am quitting Spray. On finishes , after using Ion Bond.

You should send your slide to have it treated in Satin Ion Bond DLC, it will never finish wear, cost about the same as sending it to Sig for rebluing.

The Satin finish is a black , smooth, finish with some sheen, about the color of maganese phosphate Parkerization.

Or you can have the sides of the slide polished , ret of the gun bead blasted to replicate the factoty finish.

quote:

Originally posted by PGT:

quote:

Originally posted by RNshooter:
Sig refinished a P6 slide for me.
I couldn't distinguish it from a brand new factory finish.

Bruce

is it hot blued with depth? or monotone black finish?

The reason I'd have Sig do the work is for resale. That said, the gun is sans box, manual, target etc so minimal collect-ability. Going to be a shooter and occasionally carried.

Have a look at a mint late 70's-early 80's folded slide Sig.
Hot blued with no depth or shine.
It sounds like you have a shooter that won't get any more valuable with refinishing. But it will look better.

Bruce

It's not a smith and Wesson or colt python blue.
It's a finish like you'd find on their modern guns

I had my P228 slide reblued by Sig and I'm satisfied with it. As others have said, it's not like a Python, but it is a serviceable factory finish.

Here's before and after.

quote:

Originally posted by NavyGuy:
I had my P228 slide reblued by Sig and I'm satisfied with it. As others have said, it's not like a Python, but it is a serviceable factory finish.

That's the P224, not P228.

quote:

That's the P224, not P228.

I see what you did there...

Do they still do actual blueing? AKA Black Oxide Bluing these days?

Bob

That's the question.

Here's what the slide should look like....from a previous example I sold:

I kinda like the wear patina; personally I'd keep it as is.

If you want a good looking factory blue, I'd suggest selling yours and buying one in "mintier" condition. The difference in price would probably be close to what you'll pay for a good blue refinish.

quote:

Originally posted by honestlou:
If you want a good looking factory blue, I'd suggest selling yours and buying one in "mintier" condition. The difference in price would probably be close to what you'll pay for a good blue refinish.

Not an option. These 7,65 models are pretty few and far between.

quote:

Originally posted by PGT:

quote:

Originally posted by honestlou:
If you want a good looking factory blue, I'd suggest selling yours and buying one in "mintier" condition. The difference in price would probably be close to what you'll pay for a good blue refinish.

Not an option. These 7,65 models are pretty few and far between.

Rare enough that I didn't even think about it. I did actually look to see if some good examples were available before I posted, but of course those were .380s.

My op/ed for what it's worth is that it's your gun to do with as you please. Some folks will say that we're just caretakers of these and other fine objects and we shouldn't meddle with their 'history'; I say hogwash. It's a consumer good, meant to be used. You bought it, it's yours. Period.

It's just like the collector car market; yes there are those who will pay premium dollars for a original rare car, even if it looks like shit and seems closer to being ready for the crusher than a museum. As I read about a recent auction, some will pay as much for one as they would for a car that's in far better shape but not completely original. To me it's insane; the damn car stopped being 'original' once it went in for its first oil change 60+ years ago. But that's people. We do stupid stuff like that.

When it comes to guns I usually prefer the wear myself but I can also appreciate something that's tastefully refinished to a high standard. Just like a collector car. In the end however it's whatever you want for yourself.

quote:

Originally posted by NavyGuy:
I had my P228 slide reblued by Sig and I'm satisfied with it. As others have said, it's not like a Python, but it is a serviceable factory finish.

Here's before and after.

Serviceable is being generous. My 228 slide came back like someone went over it with a touch up pen. But at least it only took eight weeks.

quote:

Serviceable is being generous. My 228 slide came back like someone went over it with a touch up pen. But at least it only took eight weeks.

If it was that bad, I hope you contacted Sig about it.