I recently picked up an Italian made 92 Inox with the black plastic coated controls. I hate the color, texture, durability of the silver paint for lack of a better term that Beretta sprays over the frame anodizing. I’ve talked to Mary at CCR about refinishing the frame in Nikote. Everything I’ve read and pics I’ve seen indicated CCR does great work.

I’m trying to decide whether to buy all the Inox stainless parts from Midwest Gunworks ($319) and then just having the frame finished in Nikote by CCR or should I install metal parts (black) which I have already and then get CCR to apply CPII to the slide and controls/small parts and Nikote to the frame?

I’m not concerned about the money aspect of each option as much as I want everything to match/look good. I have a locking block I purchased off EBay that’s finished in CPII and I compared it to the Inox slide. The CPII locking block looked almost gold like compared to the cold silver of the Inox slide.

Your choose. CCR did A-1 work on my 225.

Awesome pics thank you! It’s just hard trying to judge the actual colors on a phone/monitor. I’m hoping someone with an Inox Beretta can tell me if the Nikote is a good match for the stainless slide/controls or if it’s just better to CPII the slide/controls/small parts.

The only Inox stainless part I can’t find in stock is the trigger pin.

I’ve never had work done by CCR. I have also NEVER heard a cross word uttered about them either online or by folks who have used them in person. That’s really saying something IMO.

The factory stainless parts are inherently not as strong as the carbon steel parts so my suggestion would be CPII. I'd prefer a stainless gun for the stainless slide and barrel then have CCR plate all the controls in CPII and NiKote the frame. Some folks plate the barrel and slide too for consistent colors but that's your call; factory guns don't match perfectly so a little bit of difference is normal.

Factory stainless gun, CPII g-kit, factory stainless trigger and all factory stainless parts except nickel mag release (from a 92 Billennium).







Factory M9A1 with CPII on the controls and NiKote on the frame (the thin anodizing was speckled due to skin reaction)

quote:

Originally posted by PGT:
The factory stainless parts are inherently not as strong as the carbon steel parts so my suggestion would be CPII. I'd prefer a stainless gun for the stainless slide and barrel then have CCR plate all the controls in CPII and NiKote the frame. Some folks plate the barrel and slide too for consistent colors but that's your call; factory guns don't match perfectly so a little bit of difference is normal.

I’d never heard of any durability issues with the stainless parts except years ago with the extractor. Is there antthing else I’m not aware of?

stainless is inherently more brittle than carbon steel

Sigh. You had to post pics. I have two Beretta barrels at CCR now for some CPII.


Now I’m at a lost on what to do with the $300 “beater” Beretta I bought off a coworker.
CPII/Nikote or CCR’s Garrison Gray with black controls? I was just going to leave it alone but I can’t. Finishing up my son’s birthday Brig now and got the itch to do something else.

quote:

Originally posted by PGT:
stainless is inherently more brittle than carbon steel

How does that factor into gun parts? Other than the extractor I’ve never heard of any durability issues with the stainless Beretta parts.

According to this article it depends on the grade of stainless steel and in fact some grades of stainless steel are more ductile than carbon steel.

https://www.metalsupermarkets....bon-stainless-steel/

the pistol product manager for Beretta is a personal friend of mine and what I shared comes straight from the horse’s mouth. Will the average shooter break it? Probably not. But that’s his reco nonetheless

quote:

Originally posted by PGT:
the pistol product manager for Beretta is a personal friend of mine and what I shared comes straight from the horse’s mouth. Will the average shooter break it? Probably not. But that’s his reco nonetheless

That's interesting I wonder where E Stern got that information. Looking at most all these stainless parts they’re used in applications that aren’t stressed. I can’t see any realistic way a stainless part would break or wear out any sooner than a carbon steel part in the Beretta 92 design. I need to get on some of the competition forums where people have run high round counts through Inox models and see if anyone has had an issue in the real world. Interesting stuff.

He's the product manager (or was until last month) so he has access to all the engineering data. I think the extractor is the most likely to fail but I can ask him. He engages regularly on Pistol Forum if you're a member want to ask him there.

quote:

Originally posted by PGT:
He's the product manager (or was until last month) so he has access to all the engineering data. I think the extractor is the most likely to fail but I can ask him. He engages regularly on Pistol Forum if you're a member want to ask him there.

Thanks I’m curious to know. I’ve seen his posts on PF good stuff. I had a 92X Performance and he was very informative in that thread. Guess I’ll look for a nickel plated extractor.

extractor and slide stop are the two things likely to fail for being more brittle than carbon steel (he texted me right back).

quote:

Originally posted by PGT:
extractor and slide stop are the two things likely to fail for being more brittle than carbon steel (he texted me right back).

Thanks! I guess I’ll go carbon steel then. I’ve been reading about the Inox extractor issues.

Also....he and another friend mentioned that Beretta changed to nickeled or hard chromed parts at some point and stopped making them in stainless so even if you got an "all Inox" gun before they changed to black, it might very well be a mix of materials anyways.

quote:

Originally posted by PGT:
Also....he and another friend mentioned that Beretta changed to nickeled or hard chromed parts at some point and stopped making them in stainless so even if you got an "all Inox" gun before they changed to black, it might very well be a mix of materials anyways.

I was wondering about that when I was looking at Inox parts on Numrich and Midwest Gunworks. Some of the pictures of the parts looked plated and not very well at that. I love Beretta but I’ve noticed especially now and especially but not limited to Tennessee produced pistols you really have to inspect everything to make sure there are no QC issues. Most of the Beretta’s I’ve inspected have been fine but some I was really surprised they made it out of the factory.

they sub most of that stuff out. and, stuff that MGW has been sitting on isn't necessarily factory fresh....could have been seconds or overruns from way back and moved around a dozen times.

But yes, if I received that...I'd be sending it back.

quote:

Originally posted by dcowboyscr:
The CPII locking block looked almost gold like compared to the cold silver of the Inox slide.

Because it's a Nickle Boron material it does have a yellowish tint up against a hard chrome or SS. I've had 2 HK slides using the CPII which look fantastic against a black or colored frame. CCR does great work.