Other thread has me thinking. I have a Legion 226 and a Mk 25. The Legion I believe already has the short reset kit (SRT) based on side by side trigger yanking. I do have a Langdon trigger job and multiple examples that I added the TJIAB to. So I never shoot the Sigs. The trigger on both are fine/ok but nowhere near the Langdons.

So the other thread made me go to the Grayguns site. It seems there are 3 basic options that apply to my guns. The SRT, the strut kit, and the trigger bar and trigger kit.

I think for the Legion it would be the trigger bar and strut kit since it already has the short reset kit. Mk 25 would need all 3. Is this thinking correct?

I assume if money is no object you do them all. If money is a bit of an object, what would you prioritize? Mind you my biggest complaint is the heavy trigger. The strut kit comes with 2 springs so I think that will solve part of the issue. What mainspring weight for a self defense gun?

Do I need all that or part of that? That is my question. I would love to shoot them more but unless they get better triggers I never will.

I did the SRT kit and the strut kit on my MK25 and did not do the enhanced leverage trigger. I like the trigger geometry of the factory curved trigger and I could not be happier. The DA pull is around 7lbs and the break is crisp. I can prep the trigger right to the wall and it breaks like a glass rod. The Legion has the Sig SRT already in it, but I still might put the GGI SRT parts in it anyway.

So the strut kit will bring down the trigger weight and what, smooth it out?

My Legion has plenty of a short reset so does the trigger bar kit lower the pull weight through leverage?

If lowering the pull weight is a priority which is the best scenario? Strut kit then trigger bar kit?

The reason I’m confused is because Langdon just sells it all in one bag. Which for dumbasses like me I prefer the simplicity. Grayguns seems to have multiple kits that are very expensive and I’m not really sure if you need them all or not.

The strut kit will smooth out the pull, and lighten it to varying degrees depending upon the spring weight that you choose. I'd start with that, especially if your gun already has a factory SRT kit installed. I've had a wide variety of factory struts, from some that are just fine to others that had actual craters in the metal of the engagement surfaces which makes the trigger pull absolute crap. You won't have any such problems with the Grayguns parts, and their aluminum seat is a way higher quality part than the factory plastic.

I've not used the Grayguns SRT kit, but the factory kit is a mandatory upgrade for every one of my classic P-Series guns, and I've never had a bad experience with one. The factory kit is pretty cheap (about $40) too. I imagine the Grayguns kit is a step above, with greater attention to finish quality and polishing...I just haven't been unhappy enough with one of my triggers yet to feel the need to drop the coin.

I've not tried their enhanced leverage trigger, so I can't speak to that at all. I do like that they offer it with a curved shoe, as I'm not a big fan of flat triggers.

I've been kinda loosely shopping for a used milled-slide P226 lately that I can upgrade and get milled for an optic. The LGS had one for a great price a few months back, but it was a .40. If I find one in 9mm, I'm tempted to give it the full Grayguns treatment just to see how good it can get.

Just an FYI in my experience, often times the safety lever supplied with the GGI SRT kit will bind the slide and make you force the gun over it to disassemble. If that happens, call GGI and they will send a new slightly shorter one at no charge that fixes the issue. I’ve needed the new part on four of five of the last ones I installed.

Also, I used the duty version for all of the guns that I have done. I believe the competition version changes the sear engagement and makes the action even better. GGI only recommends you use them on competition only guns.

I did the same as dking. I prefer the old school Sig metal triggers so I put the GGI strut kit and SRT in a P226 with the stock trigger bar. It's hard to compare directly but I in my hands the trigger pull is better than any LTT TJIAB I've had in a 92 (though I have never had one with the match hammer).

As noted, if you have a problem GGI will help. The GGI SRT didn't work correctly in my gun and support worked with me until it did. The solution was a different safety lever. If I recall correctly I didn't have binding problems, it was related to the reset. I'm sure I would have been happy with the factory SRT too, which I have also used.

For self-defense, I would use whatever the heavier mainspring is. I'm using the lighter one since mine's just a range gun.

This message has been edited. Last edited by: parabellum,

quote:

Originally posted by pedropcola:
I assume if money is no object you do them all. If money is a bit of an object, what would you prioritize? Mind you my biggest complaint is the heavy trigger. The strut kit comes with 2 springs so I think that will solve part of the issue. What mainspring weight for a self defense gun?

Considering trigger weight is your biggest complaint, the strut kit would be the biggest priority. The strut itself mostly just smooths out the pull. It's the included reduced power spring that reduces the pull weight. Use the blue 19lb one.

I've put 2-3 cases of different NATO ammo through Sig's with the Grayguns blue 19lb spring and have yet to encounter a light primer strike. If it works OK with NATO ammo and the generally harder primers it should be even less of a chance with other non-NATO factory ammo.

I've never tried any of the Grayguns offerings that change the trigger bar or trigger geometry like the ELS so I can't comment on those. I'd start with the strut kit.

Thanks guys. They are out of stock but I think that is way I will go.

I went down this road when I got my M11-A1, already has the SRT.
I swapped out the skinny trigger for an AC one first as I don't like the skinny trigger.
Used an 18# spring to see if that would help and an Armory Craft hammer.
Gray Guns had the EDC/SOT trigger kit back then and I picked one up.
That made a world of difference in trigger pull but still kinda gritty.
The Sig Armorer released the superstrut and I picked that up.
Turned it into a completely different gun.

No more 12+ pound, gritty DA pull, and a clean SA pull.
Brought it down to a smooth 6.5# DA and a crisp 3.5# SA pull.

When I got the 229 Select I swapped out the skinny trigger before I shot it with what became the Gray Guns ELS kit.
Replaced the E2 strut with a SA SS and the supplied 20# spring.
Same result in DA as the other, smooth 6.5#
SA had a bit of creep, not like the M11-A1 that came up to the wall and broke clean.

Come to find out the Armory Craft hammer is not ground the same as OEM on the engagement surface.
Installed one and it's the same as the other one now.

When I got my 226 Legion, Gray Guns had another version of the ELS and I got that and their new strut, I used the 19# spring.
Didn't mess around and installed the AC hammer all at the same time.
Same results as the other two, 6.5 DA, 3.5# SA.


Gray Guns has an ELS kit with an intermediate curved trigger now for those who prefer a curved trigger.

Well my plan was to get everything at once and put it all in. The strut kit is out of stock but TGS had it so I picked up a couple of the kits. Since I’m doing it piecemeal now I guess I will have a better understanding of what is accomplishing what. I’m hopeful that the strut kit makes the trigger to a point that I am comfortable with. Not only would I love saving the money, I’m not a big fan of a bunch of pre and over travel screws in a self defense gun. If the strut doesn’t get me there I will do it anyway but I wouldn’t mind skipping that expensive, potentially binding step.

On the original topic, I have also realized I absolutely hate the OEM plastic grips on my Mk 25. They are slick and fat. I found Q on another forum posted no pics of Hogue’s grips. Problem is I like the flat , non classic contour, shape but the all around texture of the classic contour. I can’t tell which I prefer, the Piranha or the reverse checkering. Hogue’s website could use some updating. Lol. I’m assuming the Piranha is the most aggressive but any personal opinions would be welcome. For perspective, I like the G10 grips on my Legion. I think they are the flat profile checkered grips. I could stand a bit more aggressive than that.

^^^ Pete,

If you could stand a bit more aggressiveness than the Checkered grips on the Legion, then you surely don't want to consider the Inverse Checkered grips, as they are less aggressive. Get the original Piranha or the Chainlink ones for more aggressiveness.

Thanks Q. That’s what I was looking for. I’m used to LOK Grips website where they very definitely describe each of their patterns and where they fit in the spectrum. Hogue makes great stuff but their descriptions leave a lot to be desired.

The shame is 5he reverse checkered look fantastic but I think I’m going to go with the Piranha. The Classic Contour shape is still smaller than OEM plastic correct?

quote:

The Classic Contour shape is still smaller than OEM plastic correct?

Yes.

Ok, Hogue Pirahnas on the way. Struts come tomorrow. Without starting up the dot drama I looked at the Sig website to get an optics cut slide. The choices are meh. The ZEV slide actually looks like the best option but it comes with the Sig Romeo Pro 1 which wouldn't be my first choice. Nowhere that I can find does Sig say if the optics cut on the ZEV is just DPP/Romeo or both that and RMR. The Legion slide is cut for both options. Also anybody know if the standard plate cover they sell would fit/work on this slide? They cut the price so it's basically 400 for the slide with a 350 optic. Albeit an optic I wouldn't buy but reviews seem to agree that the Pro version is actually decent. Opinions? Answers? Thougts?

Regarding slides, I recently bought an optic cut Legion slide from Sig for my P229. The cut is for a Romeo Pro footprint and it came with suppressor height X-ray sights that I didn’t care for. I swapped these out for standard height X Ray sights as I am using a Romeo X RDS that sits low enough to use standard height sights. I’m sure Sig sells the same slide for the P226.

Regarding trigger work, I just put a Sig SRT kit into it and a GrayGuns trigger. Believe it or not, it is close to my Beretta 92FS that I put a TJIAB into and I shoot both equally.

My P229 came with E2 grips which I trashed and installed Hogue checkered G10s.

It depends when the slide was made. Sig did a rolling change where they added RMR holes to all their slides, but good luck narrowing down that info.

There's also this slide as well that lets you pick your own optic whenever.

https://www.sigsauer.com/p226-...bly-optic-ready.html

^^^^^^^^
That’s the slide I referred to in my post above except for a P229. I’m very happy with mine.

I like that slide, minus the suppressor height sights, but the ZEV is in stock while that one is not. I am annoyed that it doesn't come with an optics plate cover. That seems like it should be standard for any cut slide. The website is thin on details. I am thinking of calling Sig but I suspect the odds of getting someone on the phone who knows what they are talking about are slim.

I have a "Pro-cut" slide and the cover plate will fit the RXP slides that come with the Romeo 1 Pro optic installed (I have one of those too). I bought a cover plate for the RXP slide and, based on the photos, I do not think the standard cover plate will work on the Legion slides but it's hard to tell whether it will work on the Zev slide.

The cover plates should be identical as Sig makes the Zev P226 slides, just using Zev's design.