Thanks to the posts and tons of info here (Thanks: 92fstech!) I ordered my P229 frame and picked it up today. It was almost perfect to even a keen eye - but I found a couple of small marks which Birchwood Casey Aluminum black wiped out completely - I am very happy with it. This build will take several months as I am both intellectually and financially challenged. I took the nice Altamont grips off my P229 DAK .40 (now 9mm) and they fit almost perfectly. No fault of the frame - the grip screw holes are (probably intentionally) too large so there is a slight misalignment visible only right at the top of the grips under the tang.

I like the look of these DAK grips alot - but a quick check of the interweb showed no more available - if anyone has a set - or knows whereabouts - I would be most appreciative. Now, back to my low IQ - and question: can I just leave the whole decock lever ass'y off the frame? I dunno or I wouldn't ask - I never chamber a round in a semi except at the range so I'm not worried about an AD - and I've never used the decocker on a SIG anyway.

I think I'm going to get the parts piecemeal because a known good supplier has nickel slide catch and takedown levers in stock - plus their locking blocks are packaged SIG parts and the same price as Matrix Precision. Only fly in the ointment with this plan is pins and springs but I'm not in a hurry ... many unfired SIG's lurk around this house.



Forgot to mention that two other SigForum members helped with this project; one buying my P226 .40 upper, and the other by selling me his Legion 229 9mm slide. Barrel is coming from my otherwise-NIB-ish 229 that just showed up from GB. I assume the slide and frame was (very nicely) refinished but the seller didn't refinish the barrel.

This message has been edited. Last edited by: GeoJelly,

Looks good! My Revenant P226 frame is currently sitting forlornly in the safe waiting impatiently for the upper to come back from getting milled. My son even stole the TLR-1 off of it for his P09...he's gonna have to pony up for his own when my slide gets back!

I believe that you CAN just leave the decocker lever, spring, and bushing off, but that will leave you no way to safely decock the gun. I would very much recommend not doing that. I have a spare used DAK parts kit (hammer, strut, mainspring, sear spring, safety lever, sear, sear spring) that's yours if you want it...just email me your shipping address (mine's in my profile).

Heh! You guys are lucky; you seem to have a plan. My frame sits forlornly in my bottom drawer, with nothing in/on it but a set of Gray Guns grips - which do look great, BTW.

I HAVE a complete 228 parts kit - somewhere. Our move from Chicago to Dallas has left me with parts in places I can't remember. There are still boxes in storage that I need to go through, if for no other reason than to know what all is in there. My wife has managed to hog much of the space in the garage, since my car is the only one that fits inside, and that, too, need addressing. MAN I wish I had a basement!

I just finished this Revenant P229 build yesterday. It was to be a DAK - and Thanks to 92fstech for the DAK parts - but I ordered the wrong trigger bar so it's not a DAK, yet. The 'build' was easier than I thought it would be with a couple of exceptions. First, of all things, the magazine retaining plate would not fit the frame - and I tried three of them. Finally wound up sorta driving it in with a plastic wedge & didn't scratch or damage the frame.

The sear was also tricky - not difficult - as was the safety lever. Everything else was pretty straight-forward - except for the hammer strut and mainspring. I now understand that a long strut goes with a short mainspring retainer, and vice-versa .

Not sure when I will get to shoot it as our lovely (Communist) county bought the only decent shooting range in the area earlier this year. I did try cycling some (home-made) dummy rounds, and the firing pin propels a 1/4-inch wood dowel with considerable force. Will probably get some Hogue G10 DAK grips for it as these grips are still-loosish despite tight screws.



No ugly scratches under the right grip - but that mag catch retaining plate was a sum-b*tch to get into place.

"It was to be a DAK - and Thanks to 92fstech for the DAK parts - but I ordered the wrong trigger bar so it's not a DAK"

---

So, it's a DA/SA SIG without the decocker?

For the loose grips, try "bedding" them with a bit of JB Weld. You can either spread it on there and squeeze them into place with some kind of release agent applied to the frame, or just put some in the loose areas of the grips, let it dry, and file it down to a nice tight fit. I usually do the latter because it's less messy and there's zero chance of screwing up my frame.

quote:

Originally posted by 12131:

So, it's a DA/SA SIG without the decocker?

Interesting if correct.

^^^ Dangerous, imo.

I’m still waiting on the specifics but yeah I fall in the dangerous camp unless ALL you ever do is load at the range, shoot single action and the gun is dry the rest of the time. Even then I’d really want a safety or decock lever. Would lowering the hammer lower it to decock position or will the hammer be resting on the firing pin?

I was trying to be gentle. I have multiple classic P series guns with decockers. Not sure id want one for anything other than range use with safety pieces removed. Definitely wouldn’t CCW it.

Understand the concerns about the absence of the decocking lever. Funny, no one ever mentions those concerns regarding the Bazillion 1911 variants (or revolvers) floating out there. Needless to say, if I were to ever try to sell it, I would install the DCL or install the DAK parts. As I think I mentioned, I happen to really like the DAK trigger pull and just the overall appearance of the DAK pistols. To me, the 229 series is way too big and too heavy for CCW, mooting the CCW concerns as installed. I have a 290 in .380 that is one of the few handguns I trust to carry with a round in the chamber. My ‘car gun’ is a Ruger EC9s with a laser on it, and it rides around with an empty chamber. Anyways, to allay any concerns here, this has not yet had a live round chambered in it, and it won’t until I am at the Shooty Range.

quote:

Originally posted by GeoJelly:
First, of all things, the magazine retaining plate would not fit the frame - and I tried three of them. Finally wound up sorta driving it in with a plastic wedge & didn't scratch or damage the frame.

quote:

Originally posted by GeoJelly:
No ugly scratches under the right grip - but that mag catch retaining plate was a sum-b*tch to get into place.

The mag release plate should be tight and can be driven in (without scratching the frame) with a soft brass punch. I've built 3 Revenant P2296s and am a huge fan. My next will surely be a P229 in .357 Sig, then a P229 in 9mm. Matrix Precision is a great company and a really awesome resource for Sig guys.

quote:

Originally posted by GeoJelly:
Understand the concerns about the absence of the decocking lever. Funny, no one ever mentions those concerns regarding the Bazillion 1911 variants (or revolvers) floating out there. Needless to say, if I were to ever try to sell it, I would install the DCL or install the DAK parts. As I think I mentioned, I happen to really like the DAK trigger pull and just the overall appearance of the DAK pistols. To me, the 229 series is way too big and too heavy for CCW, mooting the CCW concerns as installed. I have a 290 in .380 that is one of the few handguns I trust to carry with a round in the chamber. My ‘car gun’ is a Ruger EC9s with a laser on it, and it rides around with an empty chamber. Anyways, to allay any concerns here, this has not yet had a live round chambered in it, and it won’t until I am at the Shooty Range.

Gotta say, it's your gun, of course, but I agree with others to strongly recommend to make it either DA/SA with decocker or DAK. Not sure the current configuration is at all prudent.

I'm not intimately familiar with every one of the "Bazillion" 1911 variants, but the difference here, I think, is your lack of a safety (unless I'm missing something). 1911s are customarily SAO pistols with a safety lever. Revolvers can be loaded with the weapon remaining in DA. What you have here seems to be a DA/SA gun with no safety and no decocker, so when you chamber a round, there is essentially no safety except whatever the weight of your SA trigger pull might be.

I knew the 1911 false analogy was going to be brought up. Lol.

quote:

Originally posted by 12131:
I knew the 1911 false analogy was going to be brought up. Lol.

A rare moment when you caught me 'defending' SAO philosophy and 1911 functionality.

… False analogy?? EVERY 1911 or 1911 look-alike that I’ve ever seen or handled has to be taken off of safe in order to be decocked. The only thing false about that statement is that people who say or think otherwise – have spent waaaay too much time surfing the Internet, building up their post counts, and not enough time actually handling or shooting handguns.

So the plan is to thumb that hammer down on a hot round w/ an active firing pin?

quote:

Originally posted by GeoJelly:
… False analogy?? EVERY 1911 or 1911 look-alike that I’ve ever seen or handled has to be taken off of safe in order to be decocked. The only thing false about that statement is that people who say or think otherwise – have spent waaaay too much time surfing the Internet, building up their post counts, and not enough time actually handling or shooting handguns.

Personal attack. Bravo!

quote:

Originally posted by GeoJelly:
Understand the concerns about the absence of the decocking lever. Funny, no one ever mentions those concerns regarding the Bazillion 1911 variants (or revolvers) floating out there...

As mentioned above, your gun, do whatever with it. But, when we see stuff done to the gun that is not as designed, someone will render their opinion.

You're comparing the two guns with completely different operating systems.

One is DA/SA with a decocker to safely lower the hammer. Take the decocker out of the equation, and you introduce the danger of lowering the hammer with your thumb (or whatever fingers you choose to use) on a live round.

The other is SAO designed primarily for cocked&locked carry (condition 1), but also condition 3 (hammer down, empty chamber). Sure you can choose to carry condition 2 (hammer down, one in chamber), and that's not the issue, but the issue is arriving at condition 2, lowering the hammer on a loaded chamber. You said, "no one ever mentions those concerns regarding the Bazillion 1911 variants (or revolvers) floating out there...". How about checking some 1911 forums or some YT videos? The concern is real. Folks have had accidental discharge and have been shot, performing the maneuver. Oh, man, I've been spending waaaay too much time surfing the internet, building up my post count, and not enough time practicing my handgun handling fundamentals. See ya.

The 1911 is probably not the best analogy since, at least IMO, they should be cocked and locked, not hammer down on a live chamber.

A better analogy would be something like a CZ75. I guess you could roll your thumb like decocking a 75. That said I don’t care for thumbing hammers down even on revolvers with their large spurs.

Your gun, follow the rules of safety and worst case you got extra tinnitus and hole where it shouldn’t be. Just be safe.

Chris

Tomorrow, I think I'll remove the brakes from my car. Instead of going with the engineered design, I'll stop it by downshifting and hoping that I time my foot-off-gas-pedal action correctly.