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I found this last week at a pawn shop. 1980 Colt Trooper MKlll. I haven't had chance to shoot it yet, but I believe it will be a good shooter. Trigger isn't great but I have some Wolf springs on the way for it. As I understand it , a spring swap is about all you can do to improve the pull on the MKlll s.







JEREMIAH 33:3
 
Posts: 2837 | Location: Eastern NC | Registered: March 14, 2011Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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686-3 with a 4 inch barrel. Go with Smith.
 
Posts: 4674 | Location: Middletown, PA | Registered: January 09, 2007Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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quote:
Originally posted by got2hav1:
I found this last week at a pawn shop. 1980 Colt Trooper MKlll. I haven't had chance to shoot it yet, but I believe it will be a good shooter. Trigger isn't great but I have some Wolf springs on the way for it. As I understand it , a spring swap is about all you can do to improve the pull on the MKlll s.

Edit to add do not dry fire without snap caps. It is remotely possible to break the firing pens in some models, factory replacement only. Also the weak spots on this revolver series are the hammer and trigger. They used sintered metal (early MIM) and there have been reports of breakage around pin mounting holes. Jack First parts has barstock replacement triggers and hammers if needed. Lots of info can be found on the Colt Forum, esp posts by dfarriswheel who recently passed.







I've got 2 MKIII's one blue the other nickel. I put the 11.5 lb mainspring and reduced trigger return spring in the blue one. It shoots fantastic and I have split playing cards from about 15 feet shooting single action. However it occasionally has light primer strikes.

The nickel one I left the trigger return spring alone and used the 13 lb mainspring and have never had a light primer strike but a much better DA trigger than stock.

To replace the mainspring you do not have to remove the sideplate if you are careful. Have a paperclip handy to hold the tension on the mainspring when the hammer is cocked then slide the plate and mainspring out together. I think there is a youtube video on disassembly if needed.

I replaced the grips on both with Pachmyers, handles recoil much better than the wood and are also much thinner than the wood grips.
 
Posts: 271 | Location: Conyers, Ga. | Registered: April 11, 2005Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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Cwelch, thanks for the info. I'll probably go with just the mainspring also. Got to love youtube to help you through gunsmithing jobs. I also have a set of Pachs for shooting.


JEREMIAH 33:3
 
Posts: 2837 | Location: Eastern NC | Registered: March 14, 2011Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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Originally posted by cwelch:
quote:
Originally posted by got2hav1:
I found this last week at a pawn shop. 1980 Colt Trooper MKlll. I haven't had chance to shoot it yet, but I believe it will be a good shooter. Trigger isn't great but I have some Wolf springs on the way for it. As I understand it , a spring swap is about all you can do to improve the pull on the MKlll s.









I've got 2 MKIII's one blue the other nickel. I put the 11.5 lb mainspring and reduced trigger return spring in the blue one. It shoots fantastic and I have split playing cards from about 15 feet shooting single action. However it occasionally has light primer strikes.

The nickel one I left the trigger return spring alone and used the 13 lb mainspring and have never had a light primer strike but a much better DA trigger than stock.

To replace the mainspring you do not have to remove the sideplate if you are careful. Have a paperclip handy to hold the tension on the mainspring when the hammer is cocked then slide the plate and mainspring out together. I think there is a youtube video on disassembly if needed.

I replaced the grips on both with Pachmyers, handles recoil much better than the wood and are also much thinner than the wood grips.


Edit to add do not dry fire without snap caps. It is remotely possible to break the firing pens in some models, factory replacement only. Also the weak spots on this revolver series are the hammer and trigger. They used sintered metal (early MIM) and there have been reports of breakage around pin mounting holes. Jack First parts has barstock replacement triggers and hammers if needed. Lots of info can be found on the Colt Forum, esp posts by dfarriswheel who recently passed.



 
Posts: 271 | Location: Conyers, Ga. | Registered: April 11, 2005Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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Originally posted by cwelch:
quote:
Originally posted by cwelch:
quote:
Originally posted by got2hav1:
I found this last week at a pawn shop. 1980 Colt Trooper MKlll. I haven't had chance to shoot it yet, but I believe it will be a good shooter. Trigger isn't great but I have some Wolf springs on the way for it. As I understand it , a spring swap is about all you can do to improve the pull on the MKlll s.









I've got 2 MKIII's one blue the other nickel. I put the 11.5 lb mainspring and reduced trigger return spring in the blue one. It shoots fantastic and I have split playing cards from about 15 feet shooting single action. However it occasionally has light primer strikes.

The nickel one I left the trigger return spring alone and used the 13 lb mainspring and have never had a light primer strike but a much better DA trigger than stock.

To replace the mainspring you do not have to remove the sideplate if you are careful. Have a paperclip handy to hold the tension on the mainspring when the hammer is cocked then slide the plate and mainspring out together. I think there is a youtube video on disassembly if needed.

I replaced the grips on both with Pachmyers, handles recoil much better than the wood and are also much thinner than the wood grips.


Edit to add do not dry fire without snap caps. It is remotely possible to break the firing pens in some models, factory replacement only. Also the weak spots on this revolver series are the hammer and trigger. They used sintered metal (early MIM) and there have been reports of breakage around pin mounting holes. Jack First parts has barstock replacement triggers and hammers if needed. Lots of info can be found on the Colt Forum, esp posts by dfariswheel .



 
Posts: 271 | Location: Conyers, Ga. | Registered: April 11, 2005Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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In my opinion the Ruger is definitely a more robust revolver if you plan on shooting hot .357 loads. The trigger was good from the start but I did add shims to both the trigger and the hammer and that made a significant improvement without the need to replace the main spring with a lighter one. A S&W is a greet revolver, but for being a stout revolver the Ruger is hard to beat.
 
Posts: 385 | Registered: December 26, 2008Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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