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Problem with a S&W 686+

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March 19, 2022, 07:42 PM
4x5
Problem with a S&W 686+
I bought a NIB 686+ about 3 years ago, but have never fired it. Tonight I was cocking the hammer and releasing it, going through the cylinder, and I noticed on three of the chambers, the gun would not completely lock up. If I moved the cylinder just a couple of thousandths of an inch, it locks up correctly.

Has anyone seen this problem before? Does it need to go back to S&W to enlarge the cylinder notches? Or something else?



Ladies and gentlemen, take my advice - pull down your pants and slide on the ice.
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March 19, 2022, 07:59 PM
sigfreund
If it goes back to S&W they will probably not do anything with the cylinder notches. I believe that is most commonly a problem with the "hand."




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March 19, 2022, 08:13 PM
cas
It's kind of a ratchet issue really, each chamber has it's own "lump". Replacing the hand would effect all the chambers.


Yeah, it's not "right". But is it a real problem or a perceived problem? Meaning are you getting it because you're cocking the hammer so slow, slower than you would ever actually would using the gun?

I have some older guns that do that and it bugs me. But reality is, replacement parts are unobtanium, and the work would cost more than the gun is worth, When I use the gun, actually shoot it, momentum takes care of the carry up and it locks up fine.


Won't hurt to call S&W and see what they say, especially if they're willing to pay shipping.
March 19, 2022, 11:44 PM
4x5
quote:
Originally posted by cas:
It's kind of a ratchet issue really, each chamber has it's own "lump". Replacing the hand would effect all the chambers.


Yeah, it's not "right". But is it a real problem or a perceived problem? Meaning are you getting it because you're cocking the hammer so slow, slower than you would ever actually would using the gun?

I have some older guns that do that and it bugs me. But reality is, replacement parts are unobtanium, and the work would cost more than the gun is worth, When I use the gun, actually shoot it, momentum takes care of the carry up and it locks up fine.


Won't hurt to call S&W and see what they say, especially if they're willing to pay shipping.


Cas, that was a good thought. I checked lockup when actually pulling the trigger, and it was good each time.

Still, I think I'll contact SW just to see what they say, but at least I know that it isn't as big a deal as I initially thought.



Ladies and gentlemen, take my advice - pull down your pants and slide on the ice.
ʘ ͜ʖ ʘ
March 20, 2022, 12:32 AM
mikey357
When you check the Timing on a "New-style" S&W Revo with the asymmetrical Extractor Legs you should do so with Dummy Cartridges or empties in all the Chambers--That's because of the "Play" inherent in the new-style Extractor Star/Cylinder assembly that was NOT present in the older-style guns with the pinned Extractor...HTH...
March 20, 2022, 02:46 AM
VictorLouis
Yessir, that's a problem. You ever plan on resting the gun, and cocking it for single-action fire? You know, pure target fun, or checking the POA/POI of a new/different load? Yeah, they ought to send you a ticket.

Keep us posted.
March 23, 2022, 05:52 AM
johns961
I had the same problem with my new 686 plus years ago. The hand would stop turning the cylinder.
S&W sent me a label to fedx it back to them.
They replaced the hand, hammer, trigger and extractor rod. All the MIM parts. Then I took it out to the range and shot a few boxes of full power .357 to make sure it was good. I figured they got a bad batch of MIM parts in. The new ones were GTG.

John!
March 23, 2022, 06:32 AM
Mars_Attacks
I have always replaced the hand on my S&W revolvers with an oversized aftermarket I can fit for tight lockup.

I even have to open the frame slightly to get them in.


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