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Serenity now! |
I bought a NIB 686+ about 3 years ago, but have never fired it. Tonight I was cocking the hammer and releasing it, going through the cylinder, and I noticed on three of the chambers, the gun would not completely lock up. If I moved the cylinder just a couple of thousandths of an inch, it locks up correctly. Has anyone seen this problem before? Does it need to go back to S&W to enlarge the cylinder notches? Or something else? Ladies and gentlemen, take my advice - pull down your pants and slide on the ice. ʘ ͜ʖ ʘ | ||
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| Freethinker |
If it goes back to S&W they will probably not do anything with the cylinder notches. I believe that is most commonly a problem with the "hand." ► 6.4/93.6 ___________ “We are Americans …. Together we have resisted the trap of appeasement, cynicism, and isolation that gives temptation to tyrants.” — George H. W. Bush | |||
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"Member" |
It's kind of a ratchet issue really, each chamber has it's own "lump". Replacing the hand would effect all the chambers. Yeah, it's not "right". But is it a real problem or a perceived problem? Meaning are you getting it because you're cocking the hammer so slow, slower than you would ever actually would using the gun? I have some older guns that do that and it bugs me. But reality is, replacement parts are unobtanium, and the work would cost more than the gun is worth, When I use the gun, actually shoot it, momentum takes care of the carry up and it locks up fine. Won't hurt to call S&W and see what they say, especially if they're willing to pay shipping. | |||
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| Serenity now! |
Cas, that was a good thought. I checked lockup when actually pulling the trigger, and it was good each time. Still, I think I'll contact SW just to see what they say, but at least I know that it isn't as big a deal as I initially thought. Ladies and gentlemen, take my advice - pull down your pants and slide on the ice. ʘ ͜ʖ ʘ | |||
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| Member |
When you check the Timing on a "New-style" S&W Revo with the asymmetrical Extractor Legs you should do so with Dummy Cartridges or empties in all the Chambers--That's because of the "Play" inherent in the new-style Extractor Star/Cylinder assembly that was NOT present in the older-style guns with the pinned Extractor...HTH... | |||
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| Member |
Yessir, that's a problem. You ever plan on resting the gun, and cocking it for single-action fire? You know, pure target fun, or checking the POA/POI of a new/different load? Yeah, they ought to send you a ticket. Keep us posted. | |||
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| Member |
I had the same problem with my new 686 plus years ago. The hand would stop turning the cylinder. S&W sent me a label to fedx it back to them. They replaced the hand, hammer, trigger and extractor rod. All the MIM parts. Then I took it out to the range and shot a few boxes of full power .357 to make sure it was good. I figured they got a bad batch of MIM parts in. The new ones were GTG. John! | |||
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Raptorman |
I have always replaced the hand on my S&W revolvers with an oversized aftermarket I can fit for tight lockup. I even have to open the frame slightly to get them in. ____________________________ Eeewwww, don't touch it! Here, poke at it with this stick. | |||
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