Is it possible to adjust the double action trigger pull weight without affecting the single action pull weight ?

I'll venture a guess that this could be done by polishing and fitting the action parts that pivot, slide or rub against each other. In other words, an action job, but without changing springs.

The trigger is smooth as silk to squeeze.

I'd like to see what 20% reduction would be like w/o
Altering the single action pull weight.

I don’t think it is possible to adjust them completely independently, but replacing the hammer spring with a lighter Wolff spring will make a much more noticeable change in DA than SA.

The DA pull weight is affected by the weight of the mainspring, plus any friction between the various moving parts of the action.

The SA pull weight is basically just the force necessary to get the hammer to pivot off the sear. This will be reduced slightly by lightening the mainspring, but nowhere near as drastically as your DA pull will be.

The easiest method would be to install a lighter mainspring, but personally I don't like lightening springs as I've had a lot of bad experiences with light strikes after doing so. Unless a gun is drastically over-sprung (like a Sig P6), I don't touch the springs. Polishing is the name of the game, and it's pretty easy with Rugers.

The top "ball" portion of the hammer strut that engages the socket in the hammer has been really ugly on most of mine. Good news is you can sand and polish the crap out of this without screwing anything up. I make sure I keep it round, but get the edges smooth and even. The inside of the socket on the hammer gets buffed with a polishing wheel on a Dremel, too, for good measure.

The other major spot on a Ruger that can increase the DA pull is the cylinder arbor. For whatever reason, mine seem to collect a lot more carbon and crud than my Smiths do, and have to be cleaned regularly. The cylinder should spin freely on the arbor like a top....if it doesn't, that's all resistance adding to the weight of your DA trigger pull, as the cylinder has to rotate as part of that action. I don't do much polishing in here, just a few turns with some 1500 grit maybe to smooth out any rough spots or scratches, but a thorough cleaning to get all the gak out will make a huge difference.

There are a lot of other little parts that you can polish to clean things up further, but those two areas tend to be the biggest bang for your buck and offer the lowest risk of screwing anything up.

Back in the day I used to ‘clip a coil’, or 3 on the mainspring. My Security-Six was one, as I recall. I also think I got a few light primer strikes, so I put a replacement spring back in.

Now days I’m less likely to do such. I may search out a slightly reduced Wolf spring. I’m sure things can be done, to help a little. It’s a trade off, obviously.

Try adding hammerdog and hammer shims to start--------made my wiley clapp and MC versions smoother.
Lots of good info here:

https://www.triggershims.com/ruger_double_action.php

You really can’t change the weight of DA without affecting SA since the same springs, control the pressure needed to release the hammer.

The SA, as mentioned, will be less noticeable. But, lightening it could lead to push off.

To keep the SA at “exactly” the weight it is, if lightening the springs, you would have to deepen the SA notch on the hammer.

Tedious, highly prone to mistakes and not worth the energy.

quote:

The trigger is smooth as silk to squeeze.

That's not quite what I meant. The only way to reduce DA pull weight with no other changes is to reduce all unneeded friction in the mechanism. Anything beyond that will require changing spring weight/tension - either by cutting or replacing - and will affect your SA.

Thanks to those choosing to help.
Another example of me wanting stuff that doesn't exist.

The double action was fine , just fine since I purchased it back in the 1900's but lately, just a bit harder.

Are all revolvers ,
Da/Sa,
Pretty much the same design ?

Or
Would a colt or a smith be adjustable for just the D/A only ?

bendable, I am not knowledgeable enough to answer your questions but I just want to shout out and say thanks to member sgalczyn for providing that link to the triggershims.com site. What a veritable encyclopedia of information! The detailed pictures and how to videos are priceless for a DIYer like me.

Back before my agency switched to autos, I carried my personal GP100. I dry fired it extensively and that went a long way to improving the feel of double action. It remains silky smooth and feels lighter than original, although that is probably due to parts self polishing more than anything else.

quote:

Originally posted by bendable:
Are all revolvers ,
Da/Sa,
Pretty much the same design ?

Or
Would a colt or a smith be adjustable for just the D/A only ?

They are different designs, significantly so in some ways, but all of them use a single mainspring to drive the hammer in both double and single action mode.

quote:

The double action was fine , just fine since I purchased it back in the 1900's but lately, just a bit harder.

I'm not 100% sure what you mean by this. If you're saying that your hands are getting weaker and you now need to lighten the DA pull, that's one thing. But if you're saying that the DA pull has gotten stiffer or heavier over time, I would definitely remove the cylinder and clean the bearing surface between the cylinder and the arbor. That's an issue that has been common to all of my DA Ruger revolvers, and it is something that only affects the DA trigger pull, as the cylinder rotates as part of the DA stroke but is already locked in position for SA.

Index finger issue ,
I was born in the mid 1900's

Wilson Combat used to make a spring kit for the GP100 that dramatically reduced the pull.

The answer is not really. The same springs are used for both double and sigle action operation.

^ this here.

By having action work done and then having the sear engagement increased.

IMO smoothness is as important, if not more important than "lightness" for double action. Shooting up the double action really won't have much effect if any on the single action... IF it's not done the lazy way of just putting a lighter spring in it, but rather actually smoothing up the action.

It actually gets much more complicated than what I just wrote. I just don't know how deep into it you want to go.

The GP100 has separate Main/Hammer and Trigger springs. It was the Redhawk line [not Super Redhawk- that is same design as GP100] that uses one spring for both hammer and trigger return.

Any change to the hammer spring will change the trigger feel. Any change to the trigger spring will change the trigger feel.

Wolf doesn't make stiffer springs to try to decrease one and increase the other. You can only decrease or leave the same.


I just chalk it up to DA being for self-defense and SA being for target/range/hunting/precision use, and am ok with it.