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SigArmsP226 ~

Inside the Striker Assembly is the Striker Reset Spring. If that spring is damaged, or not installed correctly and is out of it's channel, I expect it might cause light primer strikes.

The Striker Assembly on my P320 9mm Full Size was replaced as part of the FCU safety upgrade but I don't have an X5.

Also, on the right side of the Striker Assembly and in your picture is the Safety Lock and Safety Lock Spring. That is a different spring than the one inside the Striker Assembly. However, be careful with your air spray and cleaning because the Safety Lock Spring can be pushed out of the Striker Assembly without you noticing.

I sent an email to the address you have in your profile, and I received your out of office reply. If you have issues, email your phone number to me and I will call you this evening to discuss.

Good Luck tomorrow!

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quote:

Originally posted by 92fstech:


I've found that a pencil with a soft rubber eraser will sometimes not rebound any more than a couple of inches, even when the striker is functioning properly (because the eraser absorbs the impact). A hard plastic pen (like a cheap bic), or a pencil with a hard eraser should fly out of the barrel, though.

Turn the pencil around. An unsharpened pencil, with the eraser up, should leap to the ceiling in most normal rooms.

Guys - SleepLA sent me an email with some additional details related to the striker reset spring on the striker assembly that might not have been properly aligned due to possibly my cleaning or because it came back from SIG this way...I cannot say for 100% certainty but I took a very small set of pointed tweezers and one end of this spring seemed to be lodged into a spot between the lock and the striker (not saying this was mis-aligned).

Now here is the best news so far as of no range trip yet - After verifying that this spring assembly was intact and the striker channel and striker was completely clean and most importantly DRY, I reassembled the pistol and this mother will launch a Bic style pen to the freakin ceiling of the shop......

I have my monthly Outlaw Steel match today that I manage (match director and RO) that begins at 9:00 a.m. I will be out at the range in the next 2 hrs getting everything set up and will give this X5 a four mag run before any shooters arrive.

Again I want to thank all of you for your continued support, recommendations, reminders to try what others had recommended, and paying attention to the details....This could have been self-induced because upon arrival back from SIG I did strip the pistol and gave it a good cleaning (was not dirty when I sent it in but Bruce Gray taught us all to never send anyone a dirty pistol for work) and more importantly I gave it a real good grease and oil bath(you know what I mean - every part received a light coating of grease or oil) AND that included the striker assembly...I remember taking a small soft bristle nylon brush and cleaning the striker assembly before shipping the pistol to SIG and then upon its return also dropping a couple drops of gun oil onto the striker assembly as I greased everything back up good for its next range trip....

Two lessons learned - well three - 1> Make sure I have a Clean and DRY Striker Assembly and channel 2> Be more mindful of the striker assembly assembly when cleaning 3> If Ryan answers the phone when I call SIG customer service after being on hold for 20 minutes on a Friday afternoon - Hang Up and turn to the GREAT folks at this forum for guidance and assistance.....This is where I should have started....

If I have another hi-cup with this pistol this weekend I will do what others here have said repeatedly - Call SIG on Monday and insist on a RMA or if they will not provide me one I will ask to speak to Ron Cohen....

Thanks again to all of you for your help....Update to follow in 6-8 hrs post match return to home base....Mark

quote:

Originally posted by sigarmsp226:
Guys - SleepLA sent me an email with some additional details related to the striker reset spring on the striker assembly that might not have been properly aligned due to possibly my cleaning or because it came back from SIG this way...I cannot say for 100% certainty but I took a very small set of pointed tweezers and one end of this spring seemed to be lodged into a spot between the lock and the striker (not saying this was mis-aligned).

Now here is the best news so far as of no range trip yet - After verifying that this spring assembly was intact and the striker channel and striker was completely clean and most importantly DRY, I reassembled the pistol and this mother will launch a Bic style pen to the freakin ceiling of the shop......

I have my monthly Outlaw Steel match today that I manage (match director and RO) that begins at 9:00 a.m. I will be out at the range in the next 2 hrs getting everything set up and will give this X5 a four mag run before any shooters arrive.

Again I want to thank all of you for your continued support, recommendations, reminders to try what others had recommended, and paying attention to the details....This could have been self-induced because upon arrival back from SIG I did strip the pistol and gave it a good cleaning (was not dirty when I sent it in but Bruce Gray taught us all to never send anyone a dirty pistol for work) and more importantly I gave it a real good grease and oil bath(you know what I mean - every part received a light coating of grease or oil) AND that included the striker assembly...I remember taking a small soft bristle nylon brush and cleaning the striker assembly before shipping the pistol to SIG and then upon its return also dropping a couple drops of gun oil onto the striker assembly as I greased everything back up good for its next range trip....

Two lessons learned - well three - 1> Make sure I have a Clean and DRY Striker Assembly and channel 2> Be more mindful of the striker assembly assembly when cleaning 3> If Ryan answers the phone when I call SIG customer service after being on hold for 20 minutes on a Friday afternoon - Hang Up and turn to the GREAT folks at this forum for guidance and assistance.....This is where I should have started....

If I have another hi-cup with this pistol this weekend I will do what others here have said repeatedly - Call SIG on Monday and insist on a RMA or if they will not provide me one I will ask to speak to Ron Cohen....

Thanks again to all of you for your help....Update to follow in 6-8 hrs post match return to home base....Mark

If you’re launching Bic pens, I’d say that your problem is solved

The main reason I’ve never bought a 320 is because every one I’ve ever pulled the trigger on, the striker Feels so weak.

As others have pointed out, use no lube on the striker or in the channel. Clean and dry those components and re-install. My P320 strikers will launch a pencil about 1.5' to 2'.

Well in about 30 minutes I will be heading out to the range and I was telling my wife how the pistol will now launch a Bic style pen towards the ceiling. She said show me - Well Hells-Bells....The first try and the pen did not leave the barrel....The next 5 times it shot out of the barrel and went between 2 ft and 5 ft up in the air. Then the next try - it did not leave the barrel and I am confirming full slide lock each time so I fear my planned use of this pistol in today’s match Could reflect the same results as I experienced yesterday....

If it does I question if I should send the entire pistol back and be without a pistol for a month or just purchase a replacement striker assembly to see if a replacement assembly fixes my issues....

One thing is for sure - this striker assembly is not providing a consistent strike force with each dry fire trigger pull....Update later today....Dang-it....

One of my Xfives doesn’t always want to return fully to battery make sure the slide is all the way forward

quote:

Originally posted by sigarmsp226:
Well in about 30 minutes I will be heading out to the range and I was telling my wife how the pistol will now launch a Bic style pen towards the ceiling. She said show me - Well Hells-Bells....The first try and the pen did not leave the barrel....The next 5 times it shot out of the barrel and went between 2 ft and 5 ft up in the air. Then the next try - it did not leave the barrel and I am confirming full slide lock each time so I fear my planned use of this pistol in today’s match Could reflect the same results as I experienced yesterday....

If it does I question if I should send the entire pistol back and be without a pistol for a month or just purchase a replacement striker assembly to see if a replacement assembly fixes my issues....

One thing is for sure - this striker assembly is not providing a consistent strike force with each dry fire trigger pull....Update later today....Dang-it....

I spent a half hour this morning with a P320C trying to duplicate what's being described. At one point a pencil and a pen quit jumping, but then I discovered that the striker had knocked holes in them. Inserting a fresh pen produced a jump.

Check your FCU to make sure that it's doing what it's supposed to do. Remove the slide. The trigger should be cocked as you've just removed the slide. Without the slide installed, looking down at the FCU, press the trigger. Two pieces should pop up: the disconnector (birdshead shaped part on the right) and safety lever (skinny pointy part that angles up when the trigger is pulled.

If you push both parts down, they should click into place and reset the trigger, enabling you to repeat that action. Functioning properly so far? During this time, the takedown lever should still be angled downward and forward, where you put it to remove the slide. When you're performing these actions, you shouldn't see any response from the sear (middle part in the FCU, just left of the safety lever). Again, disconnector on right, safety lever, then sear, moving right to left.

Now press down on the disconnector and safety lever again, resetting the trigger. Rotate the takedown lever counter-clockwise, so that it is in the position it will normally be when shooting the pistol. Your slide is still removed. Press the trigger.

You should see the same thing happening: disconnector moves, safety lever moves, trigger stays back. No movement on the sear. Press down again on the disconnector and safety lever, resetting the trigger.

Now lift up on the slide lever catch. You should hear a click and see an upward movement of the disconnector and sear. The safety lever should lay down. Now when you press the trigger, the safety lever and sear will both move, and you will see no movement of the disconnector. The trigger resets itself. Working so far?

Press the disconnector down with your finger. At the same time, work the trigger. Now you'll see only the safety lever moving, but the sear won't move. This shows that the disconnector is doing its job.

The action that you saw occur when you lifted the slide catch lever is the action to which I referred in my first post, about "resetting" it. If this isn't done, the pistol won't function. It's possible to put the pistol back together, not check it with a pencil or bic pen, and find that everything feels right, but it wont' fire. Resetting is necessary after each assembly. What is actually occurring here is releasing the takedown safety lever, (which is not visible unless the FCU is removed from the frame: when removed, it's the hook shaped assembly on the left side of the FCU, external to the FCU frame).

The above is a function check to make sure that your FCU is doing what it should be doing. That takes care of the lower assembly.

On the upper, you have two ways that the spring and plunger assembly for the extractor can be installed. One way is easy, the other way produces more resistance. The difference between the two occurs by twirling the extractor plunger spring assembly 180 degrees while it's in the hole. You'd need to lift it out slightly to do this. The reason can be seen by removing the spring and plunger; you'll see the extractor spring is angled. It must be put in correctly to sit all the way down in the hole. If put in correctly, it will sit down low. If put in incorrectly, it will sit up about 1/8" higher (looking down at the back of the slide, if the slide is muzzle-down). Make sure that the pin is properly seated against the back of the extractor.

I do not agree with leaving the striker assembly dry. I do have grease on the striker housing as well as the striker where it contacts the sear. I use Lucas grease presently, because it drops in the bag and is small and self-contained. Small amounts. Likewise, a drop of oil on the striker safety lever, which is attached to the striker housing and uses a very small v-shaped spring.

Holding the striker in your hand, firing pin tip to your right, striker housing (on your left), the striker safety lever is the small l-shaped thin piece on the left. If your striker assembly is functioning correctly, you should need to push the striker safety lever up in order to get the striker fully forward in the housing. When you compress the striker (pushing it back into the housing), assuming that the striker was fully forward in the housing, there should be a slight click, and the striker safety lever should drop down slightly, holding the striker in the housing about 1/32." If this happens, it's functioning correctly.

Reassemble the pistol. Do another function check with the pen/pencil. A few tries with either one, and you'll put a hole in the end of the pen and it won't be jumping as high. The rubber eraser on a pencil absorbs the impact and doesn't jump as high; this may make it seem as if it's not functioning, when it may be.

If it passed all the checks, go function test it on the range (make sure the pistol is lubed, grease on the rails, etc). if it's still doing what you're describing, find someone else at Sig customer service who doesn't tell you to fire a thousand rounds (idiotic advice) before returning it, get a return label, and send it back to Sig.

If you've tried four kinds of ammunition, it's not the ammunition.

I'm betting its an assembly issue, so ensure that all the function checks work first, and go from there.

I'm off to afghanistan in a few hours...

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Just to be clear, I referenced two completely different springs:

1) Inside the Striker Assembly is the Striker Reset Spring. Inspection and replacement should be done by Sig or a Sig Certified Armorer.

2) Outside and along the right side of the Striker Assembly are the Safety Lock and the Safety Lock Spring. The lower leg of this spring can be pushed between the Safety Lock and the Striker housing. This spring can also be completely knocked out of Striker Assembly during cleaning or by compressed air.

I hope your match went well today!

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quote:

Originally posted by ruger357:
The main reason I’ve never bought a 320 is because every one I’ve ever pulled the trigger on, the striker Feels so weak.

If you can't identify that P320 trigger break quality is better than a Glock, you need new fingers.
In battery....
Glock striker spring - 70% charged
P320 striker spring - 95% (essentially 100%) charged

That is one of the reasons P320 is a superior design. After all, it came along 30 years later than Glock.
And I love my Glocks.

Well the match went good. 27 shooters and it was won by a 22 year old young lady that can shoot steel like no other in this area.....As for my pistol....I had the opportunity to give it a go before any shooters arrived and after the first 4 rounds I had a light strike. Was able to shoot another 6 rounds then a light strike so back into the pistol case it went.....

We had a church group that had reserved the range for 2:00 pm so as soon as we finished shooting I had to leave my targets, stands, and uprights down range so they could utilize the firing line...This was ok because home is only 10 minutes from the range so home I came and I saw sns3guppy’s post. I think the following is what was causing my issue because I followed his step by step instructions snd everything else seemed to be right but I think I had installed the striker assembly wrong....

This..........part of sns3guppy’s post.....

On the upper, you have two ways that the spring and plunger assembly for the extractor can be installed. One way is easy, the other way produces more resistance. The difference between the two occurs by twirling the extractor plunger spring assembly 180 degrees while it's in the hole. You'd need to lift it out slightly to do this. The reason can be seen by removing the spring and plunger; you'll see the extractor spring is angled. It must be put in correctly to sit all the way down in the hole. If put in correctly, it will sit down low. If put in incorrectly, it will sit up about 1/8" higher (looking down at the back of the slide, if the slide is muzzle-down). Make sure that the pin is properly seated against the back of the extractor.


I think this might be what caused my pistol To light strike because the church group finished at 4:00 pm and when I went back to the range to pick up my equipment and I successfully ran 120 rounds through the pistol without a single issue.....It may have very well been assembly error or during the disassembly and reassembly I finally fixed what I had messed up previously....I am going to run a other 150 - 200 rounds through it next weekend just to make sure...

Sns3guppy and Everyone - Again thanks for all of your detailed help and support and everyone's help, tips, and comments. It is not to say that it might not have been a combination of several issues that were posted here that once addressed and corrected eliminated my problem... Travel safe sns3guppy....Mark

PS - I might pick us an extra complete NEW striker assembly from SIG for this pistol like I did for my P365’s - “just in case”.....

This message has been edited. Last edited by: sigarmsp226,

Good to hear. Thanks for the update.

Nice !
Well done !

quote:

On the upper, you have two ways that the spring and plunger assembly for the extractor can be installed. One way is easy, the other way produces more resistance. The difference between the two occurs by twirling the extractor plunger spring assembly 180 degrees while it's in the hole. You'd need to lift it out slightly to do this. The reason can be seen by removing the spring and plunger; you'll see the extractor spring is angled. It must be put in correctly to sit all the way down in the hole. If put in correctly, it will sit down low. If put in incorrectly, it will sit up about 1/8" higher (looking down at the back of the slide, if the slide is muzzle-down). Make sure that the pin is properly seated against the back of the extractor.

I understand what you're referring to, but, I'm a little confused as to why this would cause light strikes.

quote:

Originally posted by RH45:

quote:

On the upper, you have two ways that the spring and plunger assembly for the extractor can be installed. One way is easy, the other way produces more resistance. The difference between the two occurs by twirling the extractor plunger spring assembly 180 degrees while it's in the hole. You'd need to lift it out slightly to do this. The reason can be seen by removing the spring and plunger; you'll see the extractor spring is angled. It must be put in correctly to sit all the way down in the hole. If put in correctly, it will sit down low. If put in incorrectly, it will sit up about 1/8" higher (looking down at the back of the slide, if the slide is muzzle-down). Make sure that the pin is properly seated against the back of the extractor.

I understand what you're referring to, but, I'm a little confused as to why this would cause light strikes.

I’m gathering that the dramatically increased extractor tension from such improper assembly would cause side load on the chambered round sufficient to impede the slide from closing fully.

Bruce--thank you for your input. Also, your customer service support is top notch -I called in for help on a Grayguns P30 short reset system.
Watching this thread, as I have a 320 X5--and toying with the idea of dropping in the Grayguns Competition Trigger system.

I have the Grayguns competition trigger in several pistols, including the newer hybrid trigger with setscrews for over travel adjustment. I also have the Apex and other trigger options, including each of the Sig triggers.

For competition, the Grayguns kit is a great choice.