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Refinishing a nickle revolver? Login/Join 
I Wanna Missile
Picture of tanksoldier
posted
So, for the past while I've been buying abused 870s and "restoring" them. Removing rust, re-bluing that sort of thing.

I now have 6 nice 870s in my gun rack... which is a bit much.

So I'm thinking about trying revolvers.

Along comes a Model 10-7, 2" barrel... reasonable price given that the nickle finish is rusted and beat to heck.

I've done hot and cold bluing, but not nickle or other plating. Remove the nickle and blue it? Is there a way to plate it myself?

I seek your wisdom in this...



"I am a Soldier. I fight where I'm told and I win where I fight."
GEN George S. Patton, Jr.
 
Posts: 21542 | Location: Eastern plains of Colorado | Registered: January 25, 2006Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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Send it to Ford's in Florida and have them re-nickel it.
 
Posts: 21447 | Registered: June 12, 2005Reply With QuoteReport This Post
I Wanna Missile
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quote:
Originally posted by jimmy123x:
Send it to Ford's in Florida and have them re-nickel it.


Maybe for something else, but the goal here is to do the work myself if I can...



"I am a Soldier. I fight where I'm told and I win where I fight."
GEN George S. Patton, Jr.
 
Posts: 21542 | Location: Eastern plains of Colorado | Registered: January 25, 2006Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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You might check around locally to see if it can be bead blasted. If the nickle is not too far gone.


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Posts: 16850 | Location: Marquette MI | Registered: July 08, 2014Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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To DIY duplicate the original nickel plating is going to be a pretty tall order. Since nickel doesn't rust, the rust you're seeing is the steel underneath. Removing the remnants of the nickel and the copper plating underneath (it gives the nickel something to adhere to) needs some really nasty chemicals. Then you've got to remove the rust, repolish (and if the pits, if any, are too deep, you may have to leave some of them in) and replate, which requires a great deal of skill, more nasty chemicals and an electrolytic tank. That stuff would cost you so much to buy, you might as well pay a pro. An alternative is to remove the plating and put some other coating on it.
 
Posts: 29719 | Location: Johnson City, TN | Registered: April 28, 2012Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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quote:
Originally posted by tanksoldier:
quote:
Originally posted by jimmy123x:
Send it to Ford's in Florida and have them re-nickel it.


Maybe for something else, but the goal here is to do the work myself if I can...


You can't re-plate Nickel yourself. Nickel is comprised of 3 different plating metal layers. You could strip the nickel and blue the gun or whatever else, perhaps cerakote it in a satin nickel color might be nice......You could try polishing the nickel if it just has scratches and isn't flaked off. Ammonia does a really good job of causing nickel to flake off (Hoppes #9 has ammonia).
 
Posts: 21447 | Registered: June 12, 2005Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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A copper solvent should penetrate the voids in the nickel plate, attack the underlying copper and eventually lift the nickel off, kind of like how brake fluid or paint remover removes paint. Then you can put whatever kind of coating you wish on the gun.
 
Posts: 29719 | Location: Johnson City, TN | Registered: April 28, 2012Reply With QuoteReport This Post
teacher of history
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Try some Flitz and an old t-shirt. You might be able to bring a lot of it back.
 
Posts: 5756 | Location: Central Illinois | Registered: March 04, 2001Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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Caswell will sell you electroplating equipment and supplies; Brownells and Caswell will sell you electroless nickel gear. Seems awful expensive for one job.

I would strip the nickel and blue; Brownells and Caswell have stripping solutions.
Alternatives of strip the nickel and Parkerize or blast and Cerakote.
 
Posts: 3365 | Location: Florence, Alabama, USA | Registered: July 05, 2001Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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That's my thought... strip off the nickel and blue it... I had this done years ago to a S&W 38 and it looked so much better.

I like dull stainless but a shiny handgun or long gun just doesn't do it for me.


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Posts: 4441 | Location: Greenville, SC | Registered: January 30, 2017Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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I bought a private party owned S&W 27-2 3.5" Nickel (shipped 1971) that 'suffered' from the freckling caused by the old Hoppe's #9 cleaner. I sent it back to The S&W Performance Center and had it bright polish re-nickeled for $275. Came out great.


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Posts: 4533 | Location: AZ | Registered: July 18, 2011Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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quote:
Originally posted by egregore:
To DIY duplicate the original nickel plating is going to be a pretty tall order. Since nickel doesn't rust, the rust you're seeing is the steel underneath. Removing the remnants of the nickel and the copper plating underneath (it gives the nickel something to adhere to) needs some really nasty chemicals. Then you've got to remove the rust, repolish (and if the pits, if any, are too deep, you may have to leave some of them in) and replate, which requires a great deal of skill, more nasty chemicals and an electrolytic tank. That stuff would cost you so much to buy, you might as well pay a pro. An alternative is to remove the plating and put some other coating on it.


Agreed. Old-fashioned nickel is electroplated over copper which is also electroplated onto the steel. An electroplating set-up would be very hard to build at home, not to mention expensive.

I have no idea how electro-less nickel is done, other than it is a purely chemical process, but it doesn't look the same as electroplated nickel.




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Posts: 53509 | Location: Texas | Registered: February 10, 2004Reply With QuoteReport This Post
I'm Fine
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I bought a dura-coat shake-n-spray kit and used it on a P3AT that needed some help and an 870 that had some rust pits/specks. It worked very well and I like the results quite a bit. Seems durable too, but I haven't had it on there for very long yet...


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SBrooks
 
Posts: 3797 | Location: East Tennessee | Registered: August 21, 2006Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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quote:
Originally posted by egregore:Removing the remnants of the nickel and the copper plating underneath (it gives the nickel something to adhere to)

A copper solvent should penetrate the voids in the nickel plate, attack the underlying copper and eventually lift the nickel off


To my knowledge S&W did not / does not use a copper substrate on their nickel plated revolvers.

Adios,

Pizza Bob


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Posts: 1492 | Location: Central NJ | Registered: January 19, 2006Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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quote:
Originally posted by Pizza Bob:
quote:
Originally posted by egregore:Removing the remnants of the nickel and the copper plating underneath (it gives the nickel something to adhere to)

A copper solvent should penetrate the voids in the nickel plate, attack the underlying copper and eventually lift the nickel off


To my knowledge S&W did not / does not use a copper substrate on their nickel plated revolvers.

Adios,

Pizza Bob


You may be right. I have a nickel plated model 19 that the nickel peeled off in a dime sized section of the cylinder several years back (from leaving it wet with Hoppes #9), there is another metal there, it is a light dull silver in color (not copper colored), is there copper underneath that or steel, IDK.
 
Posts: 21447 | Registered: June 12, 2005Reply With QuoteReport This Post
I Wanna Missile
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Thanks to everyone for their advice.

Home electrolysis kits seem pretty well represented on YouTube.

Removing rust, and doing copper, zinc and nickel plating.

I think I’m going to buy something inexpensive to start and have a go.



"I am a Soldier. I fight where I'm told and I win where I fight."
GEN George S. Patton, Jr.
 
Posts: 21542 | Location: Eastern plains of Colorado | Registered: January 25, 2006Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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