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I have had more difficulty reassembling than disassembling, particularly with the slide stop. I was at the Sig factory while they were assembling 1911s, and I asked one of the assemblers if he had the same problems. He pointed to a large, orange, rubber mallet above his head. Problem solved. | |||
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fugitive from reality![]() |
Not necssaraly. When the side is closed the barrel puts pressure on the inside of the bushing. Depending on how tight the gun was built you may or may not be able to twist the bushing by depressing the recoil spring plug. On my bulleye built 1911's the bushing is so tight it's difficult to remove from the slide, never mind being able to rotate it by hand.
_____________________________ 'I'm pretty fly for a white guy'. | |||
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| King Nothing |
I’ve yet to have an issue with the slide stop, though I’ve paid extra attention to reinstalling after reading of the famed idiot mark. I will say it’s a little too tight to take out by hand, though. I can get it started, but once the opposite side is flush with the frame, I can’t push it anymore or get much of a grip on the slide stop so I used a little piece of plastic to finish pushing it through. After the one side is flush with frame and I apply pressure with the plastic, it basically pops out.
Sounds like it’s tight then, at least. Before I bought it I had seen the takedown of pushing the plug back and rotating the bushing 90 degrees to the left, taking the plug and recoil spring out, then rotating the bushing back til it’s roughly 45 degrees to the right and pulling it out. The very first time I did mine, I could not get the bushing to rotate at all by hand with the plug depressed. I ended up using a plastic sharpie marker’s back end to depress the plug and then rotate the bushing. Nearly broke the sharpie, but it worked. After that I bought the tool to do it “properly.”
This was the one thing that even to me looked a little iffy. Trying to keep the spring from bending out took paying close attention. I didn’t seem to have a problem, but I could see this being a potential issue. ...Then it comes to be that the soothing light at the end of your tunnel, was just a freight train coming your way... | |||
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| I swear I had something for this |
If you've got something higher end like a Dan Wesson, this is the recommended takedown in order to keep your bushing and barrel properly fitted. If you got a sub-$1K gun it likely won't matter, but for a Dan Wesson, I'd do it this way. You can scroll back to the beginning of the video which goes into tools needed for a complete disassembly which is probably more than you're looking for. Rob Schauland has spent years working for Springfield's Custom Shop, Les Baer, and also turned Cabot Guns into something that looked good AND functioned. He's also helped out a lot of people on 1911Forum for decades and qualifies as a "subject matter expert." | |||
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fugitive from reality![]() |
That's the target take down.
_____________________________ 'I'm pretty fly for a white guy'. | |||
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| King Nothing |
That’s the same way that’s done in the OP video. Sounds like I can do it this way and not worry. Thank you. ...Then it comes to be that the soothing light at the end of your tunnel, was just a freight train coming your way... | |||
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