I’m basically a 1911 noob, I’ve had my DW CC CBOB for maybe a year, only shot one 1911 once before many years ago as the typical stuff a magazine in, pull the slide back, and fire some rounds. I saw many videos with using a tool (that I ultimately bought) that’s apparently commonly sold to do a basic field strip of it. It was awkward and slow and seemed slightly arduous. Well I finished putting the 600th round through my DW CBOB and took it home for its, at least, 4th field strip, but I saw this video:
https://www.reddit.com/r/1911/...sy_1911_field_strip/
Is there anything mechanically wrong with this video? I found this shit so simple, didn’t need a special tool, and knocked out my field strip, cleaning, and reassembly like it was any other modern easy to maintain pistol. I did it so easily I thought I’d done something wrong, hence my noob-ass post here

Disclaimer: I owned 1911s a long time ago (could never get one to run, even a then thousand-dollar Sig) and always stripped them the "old-fashioned" way.

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I saw many videos with using a tool ...

Barrel bushing wrench? Needed for "accurized" guns that have the bushing fitted tightly, but not on military-spec. Even the Sig I had didn't need it. Remember this was designed for a soldier in the field. A bushing wrench is another thing to get lost. Normally you just turn it with your fingers, as in the video. In fact, if original military-spec, the whole gun can be completely stripped without external tools (for example, turn the grip screws with the lip of the magazine floor plate).

Some of the comments indicate that the recoil spring plug may not come out the back of the slide on all guns. Apparently yours does? The alternative method of reinstalling the slide stop to avoid the frame scratch looks like a good idea.

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I found this shit so simple, didn’t need a special tool, and knocked out my field strip, cleaning, and reassembly like it was any other modern easy to maintain pistol. I did it so easily I thought I’d done something wrong, hence my noob-ass post here.

Take the win.

Here’s an even easier way..

Slide forward, thumb safety on. Place the rear of the gun on your work surface so the muzzle points up at the ceiling.

Rotate the barrel bushing while controlling the spring plug, allow the recoil spring to extend

Safety off, bring the slide back so the disassembly notch is over the slide stop. Remove the slide stop and separate slide from frame.

There’s no fighting the recoil spring this way. Assemble in reverse.

quote:

Originally posted by Chris Orndorff:
Here’s an even easier way..

Slide forward, thumb safety on. Place the rear of the gun on your work surface so the muzzle points up at the ceiling.

Rotate the barrel bushing while controlling the spring plug, allow the recoil spring to extend

Safety off, bring the slide back so the disassembly notch is over the slide stop. Remove the slide stop and separate slide from frame.

There’s no fighting the recoil spring this way. Assemble in reverse.

^^^^ This is the easiest way I have found to do it. Found this wrench to be helpful in controlling the spring. https://cylinder-slide.com/Item/CS0490

Agree with Chris.
Just need to control the barrel bushing--its under spring tension.
I upgraded my fluorescent work light to LED after the barrel bushing took out the florescent bulb.

I think you mean the recoil spring plug

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Here’s an even easier way..

Isn't that the "old-fashioned" way?

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Originally posted by SIGfourme:
Agree with Chris.
Just need to control the barrel bushing--its under spring tension.
I upgraded my fluorescent work light to LED after the barrel bushing took out the florescent bulb.

While in the Army, we used to joke that all the broken windows we saw in barracks were caused by recoil spring plugs.

I’ll have to try that way. My barrel bushing is super tight, though, which is why I got the barrel bushing wrench. I couldn’t turn mine by finger like I had seen in videos. With the method in the OP, I just took the slide off, took the recoil spring and plug out the back (my plug came out the back just like in the video), and then the bushing turned much easier.

I always had some difficulty re-inserting the slide stop until I learned this-hold the weapon upside down, slowly put the slide on the rails, and the barrel link will be in the right position. Also, be careful when seating the slide stop, it's to scratch the frame with it. On tight guns, especially new ones, I'd insert a bit of parchment paper between the stop and the frame when seating it.

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Originally posted by egregore:

quote:

Here’s an even easier way..

Isn't that the "old-fashioned" way?

Yes

and still the best way, unless you have some goofy full length guide rod or 2-piece rod or other unnecessary crap

quote:

Originally posted by SigSauerP226:
I’ll have to try that way. My barrel bushing is super tight, though, which is why I got the barrel bushing wrench. I couldn’t turn mine by finger like I had seen in videos. With the method in the OP, I just took the slide off, took the recoil spring and plug out the back (my plug came out the back just like in the video), and then the bushing turned much easier.

Yup. I figured that way out many years ago.

quote:

Originally posted by Chris Orndorff:
Here’s an even easier way…..

Assemble in reverse.

Pretty much this!
And the added benefit of this way is that you reduce the likelihood of the dreaded “Idiot Mark” on 1911’s.

That method of disassembly is also called the target takedown because it eleiminates the need for a bushing wrench if you have an accurized 1911.

quote:

Originally posted by SigSauerP226:
I’m basically a 1911 noob, I’ve had my DW CC CBOB for maybe a year, only shot one 1911 once before many years ago as the typical stuff a magazine in, pull the slide back, and fire some rounds. I saw many videos with using a tool (that I ultimately bought) that’s apparently commonly sold to do a basic field strip of it. It was awkward and slow and seemed slightly arduous. Well I finished putting the 600th round through my DW CBOB and took it home for its, at least, 4th field strip, but I saw this video:
https://www.reddit.com/r/1911/...sy_1911_field_strip/
Is there anything mechanically wrong with this video? I found this shit so simple, didn’t need a special tool, and knocked out my field strip, cleaning, and reassembly like it was any other modern easy to maintain pistol. I did it so easily I thought I’d done something wrong, hence my noob-ass post here

That is not the way the drill sergeant taught me to do it in 1969.

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Originally posted by SgtGold:
That method of disassembly is also called the target takedown because it eleiminates the need for a bushing wrench if you have an accurized 1911.

quote:

Originally posted by SigSauerP226:
Snip

Perhaps that means the Dan Wesson CBOB is accurized? If I get a minute in the morning, I’ll try Chris O’s way and see if I can get the bushing to budge.

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I’ll try Chris O’s way and see if I can get the bushing to budge.

You may still need a wrench. The method I described doesn’t make the bushing easier to rotate.

I have found that most tight bushings can be moved by hand if you drop the slide back about a quarter inch so the bushing is a little ways down the barrel. I have a wrench but do not need it using the above method on tight bushings.

Just be real careful on assembly when putting back the slide stop to not put an idiot scratch on the frame. Use a small piece of electrical tape until you get well practiced.

Funny, I’ve never done it the “GI” way on my 1911s. Whether higher-end (Guncrafter) or not (Springfield) I pull the slide back and remove the slide stop under tension. No wrenches, no flying plugs, no issues. It’s easier that way to me anyway.

quote:

Originally posted by Chris Orndorff:
Here’s an even easier way..

Slide forward, thumb safety on. Place the rear of the gun on your work surface so the muzzle points up at the ceiling.

Rotate the barrel bushing while controlling the spring plug, allow the recoil spring to extend

Safety off, bring the slide back so the disassembly notch is over the slide stop. Remove the slide stop and separate slide from frame.

There’s no fighting the recoil spring this way. Assemble in reverse.

This is how I've always done it too.

OP, I've found that the method in the video only really makes sense if the 1911 in question has a full-length recoil spring guide. With the half-length (original GI-style) guide rod, the method in the video will usually make the spring herniate during both disassembly and reassembly.