Thinking about treating myself for my upcoming 40th birthday. Anybody have experience with these and is it better to buy one of the smaller pro packs and build out or just go all in and buy the pro pack 3?
|Frangas non Flectes|
There’s at least a couple Wicked Edge advocates here who get amazing results. I want one, myself.
I believe in the 25th amendment.
from the abyss
I have the WE130 with all the accessories (essentially the same as the Pro Pack 3). I've been very happy with it.
My only complaint is that I wish they made wider jaws to accommodate thinner blades. It can be difficult to sharpen my steak knives, for example, as the blade flexes. This could be solved with wider jaws.
You'll also find yourself needing the low angle adapter and the jaws for thicker blades. Smaller knives with narrow bellies can't be sharpened to finer angles on the standard jaws as the jaws get in the way of the stones.
"How dreadful are the curses which Mohammedanism lays on its votaries! Besides the fanatical frenzy, which is as dangerous in a man as hydrophobia in a dog, there is this fearful fatalistic apathy." Winston Churchill
Wicked Edge is a good system. Combine it with a digital angle meter from Harbor Freight.
One of the challenges I had to learn whether using an earlier style gen clamp or the 3rd gen clamp that I'm using now, is finding the true center of the blade edge in relation to how the clamp grabs the blade. Doing this will ensure that I end up with even bevels on my knives.
I favor Spyderco knives with a full flat grind though I found that even though I thought I had them clamped pretty straight the angle cube verified otherwise.
Below is the method I use (got it from gleaning other's WE forum posts); I'm no mathematician but this forced me to learn...
I use the AAG (Advanced Angle Guide) to record my settings as well as post them into the knife setting database on the WE website.
I'll use my Spyderco Para 3 as an example; here's how I did it to keep the bevels even:
- I typically match the pre-existing grind angle on the LEFT side of the WE, in my case the angle was close to 18°; I then set the RIGHT side of the WE at 18° as well for a starting point.
Using my angel cube (TIP; only use one platen side to take your initial measurements, I used the 1K side) the Left side measured 17.70°; the Right side measured 18.43°
Next I take a 1.5" putty knife and butt the Angle cube up against it, I rest the putty knife & angle cube next to the blade on both Left & Right side and record the readings.
Think of the Left side of the WE as your positive side and the Right side as the Negative side (that's how I remember it in my mind).
On the Left I got a reading of 1.74° (positive); on the Right I got a reading of 2.81° (negative); Add the positive reading with the negative reading and I get 1.07°; next I divide this by 2 = .53°
Add .53 to the initial Left positive side reading 17.70 +.53 = 18.23°
Subtract .53 from the inital Right negative side reading 18.43 -.53 = 17.90°
I add these values together; 18.23 + 17.90= 36.13 inclusive; I divide this by two = 18.06° DPS
If you really want to get it to 18° per side, then subtract the .06 from both the Left & Right sides i.e.
Left; 18.23 -.06 = 18.17°
Right; 17.90 -.06=17.84
Adding these two values together= 36.01° then divide them by two you'll end up with 18.005° DPS
My settings for sharpening using the angle cube/1k platen side will be:
WE Left side; 18.17°
WE Right side; 17.84°
NOTE: I'm able to dial in my angles precisely with my setup (using the WE Field & Sport with adjustable pivots).
As I stated earlier I do this so I can figure out what angles my platens should be set at so I can get even bevels on my folders, even though the Gen 3 is made to hold distally tapered blades better, they don't eliminate blade lean which can produce one bevel wider than the other.
As you look down on the apex of the blade you should be able to see at the tip which side may need more grinding to get you to where you want to be, it may take more than one sharpening. I use the back of a business card (white background to view the apex at the tip of the blade).
Goniometer: the image below illustrates a Spyderco factory blade for a carbon fiber Stretch model and a Shaman model that I sharpened using the process above; my goal for the Shaman was 18°DPS
I'm including a link to a video on finding the sweet spot, I use a rolled up hair-tie rubberband that I can move down when its not in use.
Finding the sweet spot
Here's another link to breaking in your stones; after reading this now days after I've done my initial sharpening I only do about 20 strokes per stone per side; Break-In Period and Lifespan of Wicked Edge Diamond Sharpening StonesThis message has been edited. Last edited by: toxophilus84,
the handle?... it's Latin for "Lover of the Bow".
OP, take a look at the TS Prof K03. It addresses Gustofer's complaint about thinner knives with its wide two clamp option. I've used friends WE's and own a older TS Prof. Believe the TS Prof to be the more versatile of the two.
I have the propack 2 I think, it’s the gen before the self centering jaws and clamp p. It gets the blade amazing sharp if you take the time to go thru all the paddles. My gripe is getting the blade setup everytime. I’m learning freehand now and have ordered a few Sharpton and Suehiro whetstone. The sharpness from whetstone is amazing also and it feels different than Diamond._
|Throwin sparks |
Don’t know how I missed this thread but, I have the second Gen.” I believe “ Wicked Edge and I can get some verrrrry impressive edges with this setup. I really like the unit. When you fully understand the way it works and the way different steels take an edge, you can do some scary edges.
Tip: LET THE STONES DO THE WORK AND DO NOT USE TOO MUCH PRESSURE it just speeds up wear of the coatings⚔️⚔️⚔️⚔️
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