quote:

Originally posted by BGULL:
Use a run of clear plastic tubing filled with water to define the level. Google will provide plenty of examples on how to use this method.

This. You will need a helper to hold the other end.

I set a line of posts with a line level and some seriously tight string to get the posts close to each other in height, but set them a few inches high. Then cut my first post off at the height I wanted and went from there with a straight 2x4 and a 4 foot level from post to post marking the top. Cut them off and it is straight to this day, although the posts do warp and twist a little if you look down the line.

If the H.O.A. is going to write you up for one quarter of an inch off level, it might be time to consider relocation.

quote:

Originally posted by bendable:
If the H.O.A. is going to write you up for one quarter of an inch off level, it might be time to consider relocation.

For the win. Ha !

I'm not in an HOA, but some years ago I re-clad, replaced the wood soffit and all the wood trim, replaced the roof shingles, and hand built a new decorative barn door to my outdoor shed, and a neighbor came over to remind me that the original charter for the neighborhood required some kind of "permission" or something or another to do any work like that. It seemed ingenuous since what I did made the old shed look brand new, and this person just had to tell me that for reasons I can't imagine, except to inform me of some original charter legal document I had not idea about, and to get angry about something that anyone in their right mind would be glad for helping the look of my property and by extension the rest of the neighborhood. One time my dog got loose, and instead of helping me find him, he called city animal control and tried to help them capture him so I would have to go down to the city shelter and pay a couple hundred dollars to get him back. The dog is friendly, and no harm to anyone, and he knew that.

Some neighbors are just like that unfortunately.

quote:

Originally posted by wrightd:
I'd like to level some posts in the ground (4x4 in cement) to the exact same height.

Don't set the posts in concrete. A big no-no. They will rot off at the top of the concrete in a few years. It's a big pain the rear to dig the concrete out as well since you'll now need to replace it.

quote:

Originally posted by 1967Goat:

Don't set the posts in concrete. SNIP.

Then how do you set them?

quote:

Originally posted by MikeinNC:

quote:

Originally posted by 1967Goat:

Don't set the posts in concrete. SNIP.

Then how do you set them?

I set mine in concrete with a shovel of gravel in the bottom of the hole, beveled the concrete around the post away from the post and put an aluminum cap on the top. 10 years and all 45 are still in good shape.

^^ that’s how I do mine, making sure the concrete is above the ground level so any water runs off to the dirt

B

quote:

Originally posted by 229DAK:

quote:

If I use string, there will be some sag due to gravity.

How far apart are the posts?

Between 12 and 16 feet after final design decision.

Does anyone know the approximate sag percentage or x in per length in the center of a std #18 masons twine or braid at 16 feet of length, strung about as tight as it can get without breaking ? Could that be considered negligible ? Any rules of thumb like adding 1/32 of an inch in elevation in the center of a 12 to 16 ft of span between line blocks etc. ?

I know pro Masons don't use twine for actual leveling over longer distances, but for measuring vertical offset instead, but I'm guessing there may be rules of thumb when used for leveling in my type of situation.

quote:

Originally posted by wrightd:

Some neighbors are just like that unfortunately.

If I had a neighbor like that I wouldn’t be surprised if they had some bad luck down the line somewhere.

Sounds like a job for an optic: position/secure your optic (With or without rifle) adjacent to the first post and sight/level the others accordingly. This will also keep them straight. (Using like a military Aiming Circle)

You could also do a more crude version with a level and "Sight" across the top of it (Mine has a V groove along the top)

A M-2 has a similar more precise feature

The best way to set posts is after the footing is poured with concrete, set sash blocks in the wet concrete and a j-bolt in the middle. The middle of the sash block is filled with concrete. Set the J bolt a half inch higher than the block to hold the post bracket in place. Level the sash block.
This gets done to every footing and you can set every sash block the same height depending on the grade of course.
This is how we did it for years.