quote:

Originally posted by RBeach:

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Originally posted by Shifferbrains:

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Originally posted by RBeach:

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Originally posted by Shifferbrains:

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Originally posted by RBeach:

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Originally posted by Shifferbrains:
Well, right now I would say that the new EGR is faulty, or there is vacuum to the EGR at idle.

I pulled the vacuum lines off of the EGR while at isle on park, and it smoothed out. There is a very slight vacuum being pulled on the lines.

Top line: approx 11
Bottom line: approx 17

Now we are getting somewhere. The EGR control valve is the next thing to check.

I have 2 vac solenoids that I see. One is above brake booster and the other is on passenger side firewall behind battery.

The one above the brake booster, does it look like it has a cap on it?

Yes. And the bottom vac line has what looks like a green cap as well.

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Originally posted by Shifferbrains:

The green cap is for the EVAP system usually. I think that solenoid is your EVAP solenoid. That should not be hooked to the EGR at all.

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Originally posted by RBeach:

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Originally posted by Shifferbrains:

The green cap is for the EVAP system usually. I think that solenoid is your EVAP solenoid. That should not be hooked to the EGR at all.

It appears the 2 lines for the EGR come off and go around front and into passenger side of intake and not into a solenoid. I should mention that there is an electronic type of solenoid on top of my EGR valve. I probably should have prefaced with that.

It is Motorcraft part # CX2064 for reference.

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Originally posted by Shifferbrains:
Where we are now, with the EGR vacuum lines disconnected the engine smooths out. Does this mean it completely smooths out, or just some? Plug off the vacuum lines and go for a quick drive to see how the idle and acceleration feel.


Another check to do, hook the vacuum lines back up and verify rough running. Next disconnect the electrical connector from the solenoid. If the engine smooths out, then there might be a shorted wire, or other wiring issue, up to and including with the PCM.

quote:

Originally posted by RBeach:

quote:

Originally posted by Shifferbrains:
Where we are now, with the EGR vacuum lines disconnected the engine smooths out. Does this mean it completely smooths out, or just some? Plug off the vacuum lines and go for a quick drive to see how the idle and acceleration feel.


Another check to do, hook the vacuum lines back up and verify rough running. Next disconnect the electrical connector from the solenoid. If the engine smooths out, then there might be a shorted wire, or other wiring issue, up to and including with the PCM.

I took a test drive with vac lines disconnected and plugged off. Ran like a new truck. No rough idling at stops and no stumbling.

When I got back, I hooked the vac lines back up and started running rough, and I disconnected the electrical connector and that made no change at all.

quote:

Originally posted by Shifferbrains:

quote:

Originally posted by RBeach:

quote:

Originally posted by Shifferbrains:
Where we are now, with the EGR vacuum lines disconnected the engine smooths out. Does this mean it completely smooths out, or just some? Plug off the vacuum lines and go for a quick drive to see how the idle and acceleration feel.


Another check to do, hook the vacuum lines back up and verify rough running. Next disconnect the electrical connector from the solenoid. If the engine smooths out, then there might be a shorted wire, or other wiring issue, up to and including with the PCM.

I took a test drive with vac lines disconnected and plugged off. Ran like a new truck. No rough idling at stops and no stumbling.

When I got back, I hooked the vac lines back up and started running rough, and I disconnected the electrical connector and that made no change at all.

Did the new EGR valve come with the solenoid, or did you have to swap it over?

quote:

Originally posted by RBeach:

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Originally posted by Shifferbrains:

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Originally posted by RBeach:

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Originally posted by Shifferbrains:
Where we are now, with the EGR vacuum lines disconnected the engine smooths out. Does this mean it completely smooths out, or just some? Plug off the vacuum lines and go for a quick drive to see how the idle and acceleration feel.


Another check to do, hook the vacuum lines back up and verify rough running. Next disconnect the electrical connector from the solenoid. If the engine smooths out, then there might be a shorted wire, or other wiring issue, up to and including with the PCM.

I took a test drive with vac lines disconnected and plugged off. Ran like a new truck. No rough idling at stops and no stumbling.

When I got back, I hooked the vac lines back up and started running rough, and I disconnected the electrical connector and that made no change at all.

Did the new EGR valve come with the solenoid, or did you have to swap it over?

It is part of the EGR valve on top.

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Originally posted by Shifferbrains:
Looks like you got a bad EGR valve.

Was there only one gasket that came with the new valve?

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Originally posted by RBeach:

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Originally posted by Shifferbrains:
Looks like you got a bad EGR valve.

Was there only one gasket that came with the new valve?

Yeah. Just the metal one.

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Originally posted by PowerSurge:
BWD = Broke When Delivered, as per Eric O. at South Main Auto. Their parts are hit or miss.

https://www.youtube.com/channe...Gzm9e_liY7ko1PBhzTHA

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Originally posted by Shifferbrains:
One last thing to do before taking that EGR valve back and getting a new one, check the vacuum lines from the intake to the EGR valve for any kinks or damage. Might want to disconnect both sides and blow through them to check for any blockages. This could trap vacuum and can cause issues.

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Originally posted by Shifferbrains:

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Originally posted by PowerSurge:
BWD = Broke When Delivered, as per Eric O. at South Main Auto. Their parts are hit or miss.

https://www.youtube.com/channe...Gzm9e_liY7ko1PBhzTHA

Here again is why I recommend OEM for most if not all emissions parts.

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Originally posted by RBeach:

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Originally posted by Shifferbrains:

quote:

Originally posted by PowerSurge:
BWD = Broke When Delivered, as per Eric O. at South Main Auto. Their parts are hit or miss.

https://www.youtube.com/channe...Gzm9e_liY7ko1PBhzTHA

Here again is why I recommend OEM for most if not all emissions parts.

Taking this one back tomorrow and getting the Motorcraft one.

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Originally posted by RBeach:
Thanks for all of the help.

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BWD = Broke When Delivered

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Originally posted by Shifferbrains:
RBeach, did the EGR fix the issue?