I recently got a 2015 Toyota Avalon XLE Touring Sport Edition, and want to upgrade the tunes. Gone are the days of easy 4-speaker systems with a sub box and a couple amps! This car has 6 or 7 speakers and a factory amp under the driver's seat, plus a fairly smart head unit that's integrated into steering wheel controls, GPS, and intimidatingly married with the dashboard.

Cost is a major factor here, and I have some brand new stuff from my Suburban, which I never got around to installing, that I'd like to utilize, if I can. I have the following:

36 sq.ft. box of Noico sound deadening material
Kicker CK4 amp wiring kit (4 gauge)
Kicker DB4 amp wiring distribution block (1/0-4ga in, 4-8ga out)
Fosgate R500X1D sub amp
Alpine KTP-445U 4/2 channel speaker amp (RCA inputs)
(1) Fosgate Prime R2 shallow-mount 10" sub


My thoughts are to:

1-Keep the head unit for now (cost and functionality)

2-Run the CK4 amp wiring kit into the DB4 distribution block to power the 2 amps. Where should I locate this? I would think the Alpine should be located under the driver's seat, as there's a harness/wiring for the speakers there (see step 3). Would I locate the DB4 under the seat also, then run the remaining cut-off of 4ga. power wire back to the trunk to the Fosgate sub amp? How do I get signal back there for the sub amp input?

3-Replace the factory speaker amp with the Alpine. I don't know which speakers to run the 4 channels to, or how for that matter - is there some sort of adapter? Does the factory amp power all 6 or 7 speakers?

4-Eventually upgrade the speakers, as I assume the Alpine can deliver more high quality signal and power than the factory speakers can handle/utilize.

Are there ways to accomplish this without purchasing hundreds of dollars worth of additional adapters to use the existing head unit, wiring, steering wheel controls, etc? I used to just install a head unit with RCA outputs, a couple amps, 2 pairs of speakers, and a sub box! If I do need to buy adapters, can someone point me towards the best low-cost options? I see Crutchfield has a large variety of line output converters, integration adapters, etc., but I'm not sure which I'll need. Thanks for any help!

Call Crutchfield. Take their advice.

-Rob

I bought an old Dodge truck a few years ago. It came with a cd player and thats it.

Over the years I managed to add GPS navigation, a CD changer, UConnect bluetooth, an Infinity seven speaker setup and later a subwoofer with its on amp. The trickiest part was adding the radio buttons to the steering wheel when it didn't come with them to begin with.

If you don't have some kind of shop manual before starting, I'd recommend trying to find one before undertaking such a task.

You’re possibly in an all or none situation: replace everything or nothing. The factory amp MAY have built in crossovers or be pre-equalized for the existing factory speakers. There’s also the impedance of the speakers to be considered, though I suspect the Alpine will be stable enough for something as low as 4 ohms. If the speakers are lower, which is possible in a multi speaker setup, it’ll be tough on the amp if it’s not designed for it. If it has the “premium” JBL system, it’s likely to be more complicated.

Here's a starting point... https://www.crutchfield.com/ca...tfitmycar/mycar.aspx

Ok, so I did call Crutchfield, and they recommended replacing all the speakers and the speaker wires if I want to use the Alpine speaker amp, as the factory speakers "are likely not the same impedance as the output of the Alpine KTP-445U (4ohm)".

Since this isn't in the budget right now, what about buying a 1 or 2 channel line out converter, and splicing into the rear deck speaker wires in the trunk to get signal to feed into the Fosgate sub amp, and leaving everything else alone for now? Or can I splice into the signal input wires where they feed into the factory speaker amp under my driver's seat for a cleaner "pre-amp" signal? I'm wondering if I'm even going to have bass frequencies in those wires, or if they've been cut off by a filter in the head unit or factory amp. I'd like to get 20hz - 100hz into the Fosgate R500X1D.

Your speakers should be marked what Independence they are. I just opened my trunk and snapped this. Tried to count the speakers, lost count around 11-12. Yours are all likely part of an infotainment system. God knows where and how many amps/crossovers there are. Best bet is find better speakers and replace stock. Not sure if you can just pop in 3in1s with built in crossovers and be done with it.

I'd probably just replace the main driver's and leave everything else. Then see if you can get line out to sub. Heck you may be fine just getting sub added.

quote:

Originally posted by Outnumbered:
Ok, so I did call Crutchfield, and they recommended replacing all the speakers and the speaker wires if I want to use the Alpine speaker amp, as the factory speakers "are likely not the same impedance as the output of the Alpine KTP-445U (4ohm)".

Since this isn't in the budget right now, what about buying a 1 or 2 channel line out converter, and splicing into the rear deck speaker wires in the trunk to get signal to feed into the Fosgate sub amp, and leaving everything else alone for now? Or can I splice into the signal input wires where they feed into the factory speaker amp under my driver's seat for a cleaner "pre-amp" signal? I'm wondering if I'm even going to have bass frequencies in those wires, or if they've been cut off by a filter in the head unit or factory amp. I'd like to get 20hz - 100hz into the Fosgate R500X1D.

I keep telling y'all that Crutchfield is hit or miss. They are just wrong about the amp. That Alpine amp will definitely work with 2 ohm or 4 ohm speakers, and will work with your factory speakers.

The problem is that your system is already amplified, and putting that amp on your speakers will give you very modest gains. As in not significant. However, you can bridge that Alpine amp and get significant power into two channels, and that is what I'd recommend if you are willing to change the two front door speakers.

The other problem you have is that you have a decent amplifier for the sub, but a sub-par subwoofer (no pun intended, although appreciated). Your sub is a dual voice coil sub, and if they are two 2 ohm voice coils you will be able to use it effectively. If they are two 4 ohm voice coils, you will not be able to use it effectively. I can explain why later if you want to know details.

You can use the Alpine amp on the door speakers and the Rockford amp on the sub, and that will be a vast improvement in your sound quality and volume attainable. BUT, you will need at least front door speakers and one usable sub, which may or may not be the sub you have.

It may be both cheaper and easier to buy a different ride.
Mike

I would buy some quality speakers and see if that does the trick for you. Factory speakers in most cars are typically junk. Quantity seems to sell instead of quality.

I would guess your factory radio is an Entune since you have navigation.

Toyota Entune HUs can be a pain to 'upgrade'.
Systems can differ if the system is JBL or non=JBL.
I'm guessing yours is non-JBL since you don't seem to have a sub.

In my non-JBL Tundra Entune, the head unit powers the dash speakers directly.
Then sends a low/mid signal to the underseat factory amp.
That amp then feeds the door speakers mid/lows.
So if you use a simple line out converter, it will only convert the signal going into it.

Instead of a cheap LOC, some use Sound processors for factory radios.

I wanted to keep my stock Entune HU when i bought my 2014 Tundra, or so I thought.
I tried an Audiocontrol LC6i with a 5 channel Alpine and never got what I wanted out of it with the Entune.
I then tried a JBL MS-8 and never could get a good calibration out of it.

I ultimately replaced the Entune with an aftermarket HU.
With an iDatalink Maestro you can retain all or most of your steering wheels controls on an aftermarket HU.
I use my iPhone for navigation.

I purchase stuff from Crutchfield but their 'expert' help can be hit and miss.
Sometimes you'll get someone that actually knows what they are talking about.
Sometimes you get someone that is simply running thru a flow chart like many other customer service call centers.

But if just want to start with increasing bass, you could run an amp power line, tap into the rear speakers (perhaps with a cheap LOC), and mount that sub somewhere.
Certainly wouldn't hurt.

Skins2881 is correct on the ohms issue.
I'd bet most of, if not all your Avalon speakers are 2 and/or 6 ohm.
My stock door speakers were 2 ohm, the dash side speakers were 6 ohm, and the center dash speaker was a dual coil 8 ohm.

Good luck...1LL

quote:

Originally posted by honestlou:

quote:

Originally posted by Outnumbered:
Ok, so I did call Crutchfield, and they recommended replacing all the speakers and the speaker wires if I want to use the Alpine speaker amp, as the factory speakers "are likely not the same impedance as the output of the Alpine KTP-445U (4ohm)".

Since this isn't in the budget right now, what about buying a 1 or 2 channel line out converter, and splicing into the rear deck speaker wires in the trunk to get signal to feed into the Fosgate sub amp, and leaving everything else alone for now? Or can I splice into the signal input wires where they feed into the factory speaker amp under my driver's seat for a cleaner "pre-amp" signal? I'm wondering if I'm even going to have bass frequencies in those wires, or if they've been cut off by a filter in the head unit or factory amp. I'd like to get 20hz - 100hz into the Fosgate R500X1D.

I keep telling y'all that Crutchfield is hit or miss. They are just wrong about the amp. That Alpine amp will definitely work with 2 ohm or 4 ohm speakers, and will work with your factory speakers.

The problem is that your system is already amplified, and putting that amp on your speakers will give you very modest gains. As in not significant. However, you can bridge that Alpine amp and get significant power into two channels, and that is what I'd recommend if you are willing to change the two front door speakers.

The other problem you have is that you have a decent amplifier for the sub, but a sub-par subwoofer (no pun intended, although appreciated). Your sub is a dual voice coil sub, and if they are two 2 ohm voice coils you will be able to use it effectively. If they are two 4 ohm voice coils, you will not be able to use it effectively. I can explain why later if you want to know details.

You can use the Alpine amp on the door speakers and the Rockford amp on the sub, and that will be a vast improvement in your sound quality and volume attainable. BUT, you will need at least front door speakers and one usable sub, which may or may not be the sub you have.

Deal! So, I should bridge the Alpine and buy a pair of door speakers. How about Infinity Reference REF6532-EX? Should I necessarily replace the speaker wire that currently feeds the 2ohm door speakers?

What sub & box configuration (10 or 12) would you recommend for a good performance to price ratio? I can build a 3/4" MDF box myself; used to run a custom millwork department at a cabinet shop.

Then, where do I tap into which wires for appropriate frequency range for the LOCs for both the Alpine KTP, and also the low freqs for the sub amp? Locate the front speaker outputs (assuming inputs are data only, and useless) from the factory amp and grab signal for the KTP there? Is there any way to know if I'm getting FULL low bass freqs at the rear deck to tap the sub setup LOC into those wires? Can I do so in the trunk, and avoid tearing the dash apart to install the 2 LOCs? Also, instead of 2 LOCs, would the DS18 V5HL5 be an acceptable budget alternative?

quote:

Originally posted by Outnumbered:

quote:

Originally posted by honestlou:

quote:

Originally posted by Outnumbered:
Ok, so I did call Crutchfield, and they recommended replacing all the speakers and the speaker wires if I want to use the Alpine speaker amp, as the factory speakers "are likely not the same impedance as the output of the Alpine KTP-445U (4ohm)".

Since this isn't in the budget right now, what about buying a 1 or 2 channel line out converter, and splicing into the rear deck speaker wires in the trunk to get signal to feed into the Fosgate sub amp, and leaving everything else alone for now? Or can I splice into the signal input wires where they feed into the factory speaker amp under my driver's seat for a cleaner "pre-amp" signal? I'm wondering if I'm even going to have bass frequencies in those wires, or if they've been cut off by a filter in the head unit or factory amp. I'd like to get 20hz - 100hz into the Fosgate R500X1D.

I keep telling y'all that Crutchfield is hit or miss. They are just wrong about the amp. That Alpine amp will definitely work with 2 ohm or 4 ohm speakers, and will work with your factory speakers.

The problem is that your system is already amplified, and putting that amp on your speakers will give you very modest gains. As in not significant. However, you can bridge that Alpine amp and get significant power into two channels, and that is what I'd recommend if you are willing to change the two front door speakers.

The other problem you have is that you have a decent amplifier for the sub, but a sub-par subwoofer (no pun intended, although appreciated). Your sub is a dual voice coil sub, and if they are two 2 ohm voice coils you will be able to use it effectively. If they are two 4 ohm voice coils, you will not be able to use it effectively. I can explain why later if you want to know details.

You can use the Alpine amp on the door speakers and the Rockford amp on the sub, and that will be a vast improvement in your sound quality and volume attainable. BUT, you will need at least front door speakers and one usable sub, which may or may not be the sub you have.

Deal! So, I should bridge the Alpine and buy a pair of door speakers. How about Infinity Reference REF6532-EX? Should I necessarily replace the speaker wire that currently feeds the 2ohm door speakers?

What sub & box configuration (10 or 12) would you recommend for a good performance to price ratio? I can build a 3/4" MDF box myself; used to run a custom millwork department at a cabinet shop.

Then, where do I tap into which wires for appropriate frequency range for the LOCs for both the Alpine KTP, and also the low freqs for the sub amp? Locate the front speaker outputs (assuming inputs are data only, and useless) from the factory amp and grab signal for the KTP there? Is there any way to know if I'm getting FULL low bass freqs at the rear deck to tap the sub setup LOC into those wires? Can I do so in the trunk, and avoid tearing the dash apart to install the 2 LOCs? Also, instead of 2 LOCs, would the DS18 V5HL5 be an acceptable budget alternative?

Along with the above. I'd personally consider the LOC from the stock head unit (for each channel) with RCAs into the new amp. Run new wire (pain the butt though worth it) from the amp to each speaker. This gives you great wiring and lets you learn for the future speaker upgrade.

If the stock speaks are one or two ohm, just be cognizant of how loud they can be driven without being ruined.

As you route the wire install the sound deadening starting with the trunk followed by the door skins.

Take your time and learn about the car do when you've saved and are ready, upgrading the stock speakersand possibly the HU will be more fun than a chore

IMO, Crutchfield is like the elementary student getting tutoring from a high school student. Hit and miss add previously mentioned.

honestlou put a new stereo in my truck a month or so ago and I love it.
It was everything I needed. He's been in the busy for years.

Thanks Louis, Debbie and I have really enjoyed our new radio on our trips.

Have you checked on the Toyota Nation Forums?

It could be as simple as some people are saying. It could be much harder. It may even be impossible. I'd bet those guys would be able to tell you better than we can.

quote:

Originally posted by g8rforester:
Have you checked on the Toyota Nation Forums?

It could be as simple as some people are saying. It could be much harder. It may even be impossible. I'd bet those guys would be able to tell you better than we can.

Yes, I've read every thread there that I could find on the subject. Definitely more questions than answers, but thanks for the idea!

I think I'll have to put my multimeter to the input harness going into the factory amp to test for voltage. If it's a powered signal, I'll likely put in a LOC, and swap that amp for my Alpine, and replace two pairs of speakers; front doors, and rear deck.

Anyone know if I can splice two LOCs into the same speaker leads? That way I can also get a signal for my sub channel without buying a $150-$200 Audio AudioControl 6 channel LOC.

If I lived closer to Lou, he's get my business!!! He's offered great advice on here!

quote:

Originally posted by Outnumbered:

Yes, I've read every thread there that I could find on the subject. Definitely more questions than answers, but thanks for the idea!

I think I'll have to put my multimeter to the input harness going into the factory amp to test for voltage. If it's a powered signal, I'll likely put in a LOC, and swap that amp for my Alpine, and replace two pairs of speakers; front doors, and rear deck.

Anyone know if I can splice two LOCs into the same speaker leads? That way I can also get a signal for my sub channel without buying a $150-$200 Audio AudioControl 6 channel LOC.

Also make sure the signal is full range.
One thing that Audiocontrol will do is sum the signal.

***Special Note about Summing***

Thank you, all!

Sorry for the delay in getting back, but just didn't have time. I've been trying to get some info on your car, which frankly can be a dumpster fire as for the stereo system. You will be able to add a subwoofer, regardless, but you may not be able to add the other amp. Keeping fingers crossed, is your system the non-JBL amplified system with 9 speakers?

If you can get to the amp under the driver's seat, there should be at least two plugs. One should have the main power and ground wires, which should be larger than most of the wires on the amp. The other plug will have the speaker wires, typically twisted pairs (you may not be able to see the twist at the plug). Is that second plug a 10 pin plug? If that plug is 10 pins, and you have 9 speakers, then you're in pretty good shape. If that plug is 30 pin, and you have 11 speakers, then this is most likely not a do-it-yourself job, even for an advanced do-it-yourselfer. Frankly, it's not a job for most stereo shops, and you probably don't want to do anything other than add a sub.

Let me know what you have, and I'll make recommendations from there.