I use a copper-removing solvent. There are many different kinds that often vary in how strong they are. Sweet's 7.62 is among the most aggressive. Butch's Bore Shine is a step down. At the lower end is Hoppe's #9 and I don't know how effective it would be for the purpose, but you could try.
I apply and rub with a cotton bore cleaning patch. It may take several applications, and leaving the solvent in contact with the area for a time can make it more effective.
Solvents designed for cleaning guns should be safe for blueing, but read the labels first.
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Posts: 49831 | Location: 10,160 Feet Above Sea Level in Commirado | Registered: April 04, 2002
To augment what Sigfreund said, I use Bore Tech copper cleaner. It's powerful enough to get the job done quite effectively but can be used indoors because it doesn't have ammonia in it. (Well, I suppose you could use the other stuff indoors, but if you've got anyone else living with you chances are you'll hear about the smell until the end of time.)
For stainless steel I've heard of using CLR. It'll strip bluing off of carbon steel, though.
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Originally posted by vulrath: For stainless steel I've heard of using CLR. It'll strip bluing off of carbon steel, though.
And if that’s not enough reason, there is a YouTube video by Vudoo Gun Works that very strenuously warns against using CLR as a bore cleaner—or, presumably, for any other gun cleaning—because testing has found that it actually etches steel.
I can tell at sight a Chassepot rifle from a javelin.
Posts: 49831 | Location: 10,160 Feet Above Sea Level in Commirado | Registered: April 04, 2002
I'd never, ever use it for bore cleaning for that very reason. A buddy suggested it while I was trying to get caked up carbon out the threads of a brake - my brake was not stainless, so I didn't do it (and no, that brake never did get clean).
Like I said, I've got access to much better purpose-formulated solvents.
For non critical components I was considering it but haven't had any particular need.
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