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Member |
Thanks for all the help guys. I installed the valve above. I used some thread sealant (yellow goop) and tightened all nuts tight (but tried to avoid over tightening). Wrapped in kleenex for now to see if there are any slow leaks. People are not made to fit under sinks and do work like this. The job was extremely awkward but not too hard. Thanks again for all the help. "Wrong does not cease to be wrong because the majority share in it." L.Tolstoy "A government is just a body of people, usually, notably, ungoverned." Shepherd Book | |||
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Nosce te ipsum |
Well, I missed the party but here is even more information, already said but what the heck. Hot air is cheap. The compression ring already formed both to the pipe and to the old valve. It should not want to slide off, and when it does not, I've reused them - under protest. Assuming you replaced the nut and ring, or even if you did not, I dope the ring real well, then tighten the crap out of it to the valve, using rather short wrenches; you can only get it so tight with a small wrench. The compression nut threads and the valve body threads do not get dope. Or tape. Or anything. The joint is a compression joint, like a union. The threads merely pull together the seal but are not intended to provide any bit of the waterproof seal; that is for the honed surfaces to provide. In your case I would have snugged up the packing nut and perhaps loosened the compression nut, doped the ring, and tightened it back up. Instead of replacing it. Tissue paper under the sink will detect the smallest drip. | |||
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| Member |
I'm now on a 2 story loss that started from a failed valve such as the one you posted. My bill will be in the $8-10k range. Repairs will be another $18-20k. All because of a cheap old valve... | |||
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A Grateful American |
I clearly stated the re-use is dependent upon its condition. Take my word on it. I really do know a bit about plumbing. "the meaning of life, is to give life meaning" ✡ Ani Yehudi אני יהודי Le'olam lo shuv לעולם לא שוב! | |||
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| Member |
Ooooops. I used thread sealant on the 1/2" and 3/8" compression threads. I assume that's okay at this point if nothing is leaking. Or do I need to take everything out and start over? "Wrong does not cease to be wrong because the majority share in it." L.Tolstoy "A government is just a body of people, usually, notably, ungoverned." Shepherd Book | |||
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| Member |
Yikes! "Wrong does not cease to be wrong because the majority share in it." L.Tolstoy "A government is just a body of people, usually, notably, ungoverned." Shepherd Book | |||
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| I am a leaf on the wind... |
You don't need to cut the pipe, but the compression sleeve will not slide off. If you have to replace the compression sleeve, some people think you need to cut the pipe to get the sleeve off. All you need is the compression sleeve removal tool I linked to earlier, and that will remove the sleeve without the need to cut the pipe. You can also use a large slip plies set to large setting. Put the pipe in the space and squeeze just enough to slide up to the compression sleeve and use a hammer to hammer slide the fitting off. But that's kind of an advanced maneuver. Stick to the fitting removal tool and it will be smooth sailing. _____________________________________ "We must not allow a mine shaft gap." | |||
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Member |
i would go with a ball valve set up do both hot and cold the other one isn't far behind "They that can give up essential liberty to purchase a little temporary safety, deserve neither liberty nor safety." --Benjamin Franklin, 1759-- Special Edition - Reverse TT 229ST.Sig Logo'd CTC Grips., Bedair guide rod | |||
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| Member |
If (big if) you have to do it again, I'd recommend doing both valves. Doing two valves at once isn't really easier, but clearing all the junk out from under the sink and getting all the tools and paraphernalia out is enough irritation to justify taking the "one trip only" approach. === I would like to apologize to anyone I have *not* offended. Please be patient. I will get to you shortly. | |||
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| Nosce te ipsum |
No big deal, Konata88, I just avoid it. Makes detecting a leak messier, obscures precise observation. I'd use it, not on the compression threads, but possibly on a compromised o-ring, like an old one, if I had to. In doping the o-ring the nut threads may get doped, or appear to get doped. Teflon tape on a steel union coupling nut joint, that is a real palm slap to the forehead. The honed surface gets a smear of dope only. The union coupling nut only pulls the honed surfaces together. | |||
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| Member |
Is it the angle - or does top valve/fitting look canted? I would replace all of it - same amount of time and work. | |||
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Baroque Bloke |
When I moved into my home, I had a plumber replace ALL of the compression cutoff valves with quarter-turn ball cutoff valves. An order of magnitude better. MUCH easier to operate, positive cutoff, and no drips. My plumber installed the "Dahl" brand, which he said was best available. These: www.dahlvalve.com/products/min...ves/supply-stops.php Serious about crackers | |||
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