Just by chance, I noticed that my valve for my bathroom faucet was leaking.

Is it typical to just replace the entire valve or just buy a kit to replace the insides (o-rings, whatever)?

Hope this is fairly universal -- I'm having a hard time finding this stuff online (HD website).



ETA: I'm think of just using this. Will this work? https://www.homedepot.com/p/Br...G2CR19X-C1/202047059

You might try tightening the packing nut (the nut the valve shaft sticks thru) slightly with an appropriately sized wrench. Go easy on it, they can be frail.

Thanks. I'll try that but when I pressed on the turning handle, water started to splash everywhere.

Part seems relatively cheap ($10) - thinking about just replacing the entire valve if I can figure out the right one to use.

Maybe replace both hot and cold together. Do these things typically fail all at once? Or is the hot side (and other sinks) probably okay and they fail at different times for different reasons?

Always "double wrench". (or triple)

You need to hold the valve body (and if you can, hold that rear compression nut as well) while you loosen and tighten the packing nut.

I have seen people break the solder where the stub at the T in the wall.

I replace everything at one time, but it's mostly because it's harder for me to get in and out of those places with the "oldness" setting in my bones.

It's "splashing" when you push, because you are pushing the seat open in the valve.

Those shut off valves are available at any plumbing supply or Lowes , etc. Don't put a bandaid on a piece of crap . Change them out and be done .

First step - the nut with the drip on it - use two wrenches, one to hold the “body” of the valve and the second to LOOSEN the nut with the drip on it - very gently. Then tighten it just a little tighter than it was. That might be all you need.

With the wrenches, the GENTLE is very important. Apply pressure, slowly increasing it until it moves. Sudden, powerful torque tends to break or move things you don’t want to break.

The valve looks like it has a corrosion accumulation. That isn’t too far from replacement. If you are going to remove and replace, gently undoing the slotted nut while holding the body is the way to get things loose. In this case you need to turn the water off to the house or somewhere closer to the supply.

The valves are cheap enough that I don’t think anyone offers rebuild kits.

Agreed, replace the whole thing. And while you're at it, wouldn't hurt to replace the rest in your house. Those cheap valves become time bombs over the years and they often won't shut off all the way should you ever need them to. You can pick up a contractor's pack at any hardware store, shut the water off to the house and get to work.

Thanks guys.

Will this valve work? I think so but not completely sure. https://www.homedepot.com/p/Br...G2CR19X-C1/202047059


R&R process:
0) Turn off water supply. Open up first faucet inside the house near the water supply (garage sink). Remove the aerator.
1) Detach the outlet line (chrome nut)
2) Using two wrenches (on valve body with the outlet port & on the nut closest to the wall), loosen the valve from the pipe
3) Install new valve using two wrenches. Do I need teflon tape or any other kind of pipe thread sealant?
4) Attach outlet line (re-use existing compression fitting)
5) turn on water supply (garage sink already open)
6) Check for leaks at bathroom sink
7) turn off garage sink and install aerator
8) done.

Sound about right?

Okay - So, I'm replacing both the hot and cold valves at this one sink. Leave others sinks alone for now?

quote:

Originally posted by selogic:
Those shut off valves are available at any plumbing supply or Lowes , etc. Don't put a bandaid on a piece of crap . Change them out and be done .

I'd be careful as there's not a lot of pipe to work with and the valve already is a compression fitting. I'd try tightening the packing nut a little first.

Konata- if you change the valve, you need one with a compression fitting. I'd only change the one. AND, make sure to get the 1/4 turn shutoff valve. The ones that you have to go 2 whole turns to shutoff leak a lot easier when you go to turn them on or off in the future. Also install the valve with it in the open position.

Awesome. Thanks guys.

Wow, replace all in the house? I do admit that having this one leak suddenly isn't inspiring confidence with the rest. But that's going to be about another 16 valves! More if I include toilets and dishwasher. I'll buy the pack and install the hot and cold at this one sink for now. If it all looks good after a month or so, I'll get down and do the rest. I'm going to be changing valves for the next 6 months.

Replace it all. I'm a bit of a plumbing newbie, I can do it most of it though. YouTube and Google are your friends....especially YouTube.

Whenever I'm doing any sort of plumbing on something old, I make it a point to replace everything I can.

That part is usually standard for bathrooms I believe.

Either way, I always go to Home Depot or plumbing supply store with as much info (pictures, measuremeets , issues etc) as I can to give to the person so I make sure I get the right stuff.

Usually more knowledgeable people at plumbing stores (more expensive though) than big box stores...but sometimes I run into a guy at HD that can help me.

quote:

Originally posted by konata88:...I'm going to be changing valves for the next 6 months.

Man's gotta have a hobby.

I replace these all the time.

Replace the whole valve.

quote:

Originally posted by jimmy123x:

Konata- if you change the valve, you need one with a compression fitting. I'd only change the one. AND, make sure to get the 1/4 turn shutoff valve. The ones that you have to go 2 whole turns to shutoff leak a lot easier when you go to turn them on or off in the future. Also install the valve with it in the open position.

Thanks. This one will work, right?
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Br...G2CR19X-C1/202047059

Okay - install with the valve open. Do I need any thread sealant / teflon tape?

I watched a couple of videos.

I can reuse the existing 1/2" compression nut and fitting on the copper pipe with the new valve, correct? If I have to cut the copper pipe to use a new nut/fitting, that may be a problem.

Yes, you can reuse that nut and compression band if it is not corroded or damaged. (it stays on the pipe)

Once the band is compressed, it is squeezed into the pipe, and the pipe is slightly "swelled" in front and behind the band, and the taper in the valve body is "pulled" against the band when you install the new fitting.

Most replacements like that work just fine.

If you need to "clean it up", use a damp "scrubby" and only clean it to remove any debris.

And yes, always use pipe thread sealant on any tapered pipe threads. It typically will not hurt compression type fittings, (and can help) but try to keep it out of the valve.

Sure, but why not start fresh with all new stuff?

Why would you need to cut the pipe?

Just curious, I'm an amateur plumber as well.

Not enough to cut and install a new stop without brazing a new piece of pipe to extend it.

That would require about another $50-$80 in parts/tools if konata does not have MAP gas, torch head, solder, flux and a pipe cutter.

Reuse of the compression nut/band is typical.

The compression sleeve is usually good for one fitting. You can reuse it, but you will be taking a chance on it not sealing properly with the new valve.
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Fa...=compression+remover

Get this with your valves and remove the old compression sleeve and use the new one with the new valve. That valve you got is perfect, I use those all the time.

I would only replace each valve as it leaks. It's a little overkill to replace them all at the same time. Nothing wrong with it, but no sense stirring up a potential hornets nest if you don't have to. One and done is how I would tackle this one.

quote:

Originally posted by sigmonkey:
Not enough to cut and install a new stop without brazing a new piece of pipe to extend it.

That would require about another $50-$80 in parts/tools if konata does not have MAP gas, torch head, solder, flux and a pipe cutter.

Reuse of the compression nut/band is typical.

Yes, but with all plumbing it depends on what you're working with. I have one property that is 1966 and another 1968. I loosened one compression like that and took it off and the band was so bad, I'm surprised the entire fitting didn't blow off of the wall on it's own. I was able to slide a new band right over the pipe and install a new fitting. If it's 1 drop every ten minutes just tighen the packing a 1/4-1/3 turn and see if it stops. You could make a huge project out of nothing. I would only replace when needed to, otherwise you can open up an entire can of worms for no need. Whenever I do plumbing work on either old property, I just shut off the plumbing main going into either property and not mess with moving/shutting the individual shut off valves at their age.