So once again to the collective for it's wisdom... This should be an easy one.

Little project for a daughter. Part for a fountain build. It's just a outdoor fountain, not building the Space Shuttle here but I would like a fairly permanent solution.

I need to attach and seal a modified PVC fitting I made for a spout to a notch I cut in a regular Terracotta flower pot.

Must be 100% waterproof, will be wet 24/7.

My concern is mostly the flower pot, it is porous and absorbs water that might ultimately undermine the adhesion. (I could seal the pot inside with something if you have a suggestion for that)

The fitting is mechanically secure sets in the notch, just needs to stay that way and not leak

No... I could not convince her to just let me drill a hole in the pot for the water to exit... baby girl gets her way, again.








EDIT to add:
Yea, its ugly. I'm sure she will paint it or something.

quote:

My concern is mostly the flower pot, it is porous and absorbs water that might ultimately undermine the adhesion

I think you are right, the first thing that popped into my head was sealing the whole pot first. Something like Flex Seal

https://www.lowes.com/pd/Flex-...d-Coating/1000126151

I think epoxy would be best.

A good bead of clear silicone should do the trick.

Get silicone adhesive…not silicone caulk.

Epoxy grout?

I'd use a semi-flexible adhesive like perhaps a Construction adhesive like Liquid Nails or similar or maybe just some Silicone.
I wouldn't drill it or use a rigid adhesive.
Now that I think about it I'd use the Silicone,

Isn't is amazing how something so simple can prone to overthinking?

I don't have any suitable silicone on hand. I do have some JB weld Clear Epoxy but it isn't waterproof rated.

So, I will have to purchase something for this, might as well be the right product for the job!

Here is the fountain as I built it 8 or so years ago. I moved, she bought the old house, fountain included. She wants to change it up a bit.

Butyl concrete rated caulk.

5200

Flex seal the inside and 5200 by 3M

Another vote for 5200 - this is exactly what it is made for. You could probably get by with 4200 as well given that there is minimal stress on the joint. Just make sure you cover the edge before setting the spout in and clean it up before it dries.

I bought a tube of a caulk type material at Home Depot. Sorry I don't remember the name.

Its found in the masonry section. I bought it to hold down blue stone in my shower stall about 8 years ago. It hasn't budged or leaked. I do remember the fast tack time because I was pissed at the fast tack time!
I applied this to blue stone and cement board not terra-cotta to plastic but it could work.

Maybe Sugru mold able rubber?

Though that looks more like something that could have been used for the grey bits you already have.

I would most likely purchase some Marine Epoxy and use that. This stuff is magic and double tough.

I think an old school plumber would consider nothing but molten lead for this application. Build a reservoir/barrier to contain any overflow, and pour molten lead around the joint. As an alternative, I would prefer a mortar/cement joint to one composed of a plastic adhesive. The latter do not stick to masonry over the long haul in my experience, but I have plenty of bricks in my 70-year-old falling-down garden wall that still have mortar firmly attached.

PC-11 marine epoxy. I’ve used it to patch pool leaks in the skimmer and underwater light fixture. Lasted until we had the pool resurfaced three years later at which point we replaced the skimmer and light fixture. It cures underwater even.

I like 5200, but hate wasting a tube on small projects. Once you open the tube, It’s good for about a year before it hardens in the tube. Open, unmixed epoxy has a much longer shelf life.

quote:

Originally posted by cparktd:

WOW....Thar's Impressive! Can you do some work at my house?