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I've been driving a Subaru since 2002 and I'd always heard that changing spark plugs in a pancake engine is really hard. I heard stuff like you had to loosen the engine mounts and jack the engine up. All that stuff scared me away from ever trying. I discovered this past weekend that it's not hard at all. I did the job on a 2015 Crosstrek in a couple hours, mostly because I was taking my time and doing other stuff like wire brushing battery cables and other rabbit holes. You do have to get a bit creative, like putting the socket in the hole, then adding the wobbly extension, then attaching the ratchet. Getting those three items apart after the plug is loose also requires some creativity and dexterity, but it wasn't bad at all. I probably won't attempt a head gasket repair as I lack available time (and probably key tools like an engine stand) but I'm feeling confident with smaller jobs. Hopefully my current ride won't need a head gasket for many years... | ||
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I've delayed doing certain projects because I've heard that they were difficult, only to find out that it wasn't too bad at all. I guess one has to consider the source of the advice. When replacing spark plugs, I've used the old method of preventing cross threading of the new plug, particularly in an aluminum head: Use a short length of rubber fuel line or similar to spin it in by hand and then bring it up to torque with the ratchet. | |||
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Savor the limelight |
Now that you are up to the challenge: ![]() There is no substitute. | |||
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Yeah, it’s not that bad on my wife’s Outback. My WRX however is a little more involved with the tight(er) engine compartment. Have to remove the air box on one side and the battery on the other. And there’s still very little room have to find just the right extension(s) and flex joint. But still well worth the effort vs paying someone 500-600 bucks. Mongo only pawn in game of life... | |||
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Nah: BRM H16 from the P83 [1966] Driven by Jackie Stewart & Graham Hill ![]() The Enemy's gate is down. | |||
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Savor the limelight |
^^^Only has one spark plug per cylinder. The 16 cylinder Porsche boxer motor has two per cylinder. | |||
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His diet consists of black coffee, and sarcasm. ![]() |
Now that you've cut your teeth, try this one. ![]() Pratt & Whitney R4360 Wasp Major, 28 cylinders (each displacing ~150 cubic inches), 2 plugs per cylinder For extra credit, do it in Thule, Greenland. In winter. And six engines. | |||
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Yeah, but you were probably getting paid $3, maybe $4 per hour for that! | |||
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This was a timely post for me. I was watching videos on it last week and I've been dreading this. I have a 2015 Legacy. Did you undo (or loosen) the engine mount bolts and jack the engine up? Remove the battery tray? Probably a good time for coil replacement too. FYI the engine compartment in a Legacy looks to be a bit tighter. | |||
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I didn't move the engine at all, just had to take out the battery (and tray) on the driver side, then the air filter box on the other side. I've heard it's tighter if you have a 6 cylinder. In any case you might have to experiment with some different tools. I didn't previously own a wobbly extension or swivel head ratchet; I now have both for about $45. I also used a universal joint to retrieve the socket (and old plug) from the hole after detaching the ratchet and 3" wobbly extension from the socket with a screwdriver. I didn't need the universal joint to bend, I just needed something short to grab that socket when needle nose and then a magnet failed. | |||
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Shit don't mean shit |
What year vehicle & engine was this on? From what I hear, the head gasket issues were only related to the 2.5 naturally aspirated engines. It was caused by the graphite head gaskets. | |||
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I've been holding off doing the plugs on our Subaru Forester for the same reason. I'll most likely ask the auto shop teacher to do it. It will cost me $45 in donuts for the students. We are not allowed to give them money. Living the Dream | |||
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My other Sig is a Steyr. ![]() |
I was asked if I could do the plugs on an SVX... Loaned him the tools instead. | |||
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Gone but Together Again. Dad & Uncle ![]() |
2015 Outback with 2.5L here. The passenger side was pretty straightforward. Just remove the airbox. The driver’s side requires removing the battery and battery tray. I will say the frame rail doesn’t give you much room to play with, but with the right tools, I got it done. Just watch some YouTube videos. I can’t find the link for the one I found the most beneficial. | |||
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Peripheral Visionary![]() |
I did my wife's Forester many years ago. I did it by building a socket extension stack and taping them together as they went down the tube. Reverse the process to remove. Not relishing the idea of changing them on her now current Outback. ![]() ![]() | |||
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My 03 WRX needed a head gasket due to a radiator failure and overheating...but I just sold it yesterday to a young kid with way more time than I have. Prior to the cooling system nightmare, the head gasket was solid for almost 23 years and 190,000 miles. The car was in great shape otherwise, but that repair was the last straw and I couldn't get myself to throw more money into that pit...but damn I already miss my WRX. | |||
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Shit don't mean shit |
I'm kicking around the idea of getting my son an older Subaru as his first car. However, it won't be a WRX. I don't trust him enough for that! | |||
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Good call. If I'd have had that car at 17 I would have been dead. The "kid" I sold mine to was more mid-20s working man than high school dumbass. | |||
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