quote:

Originally posted by GaryBF:
Where's the love for Liquid Wrench? That's been my go-to forever. Any of them may take some time to work.

I'll +1 liquid wrench.

Used to use Liquid Wrench, now only PB Blaster.

Whatever you use time is your friend. When I have a known likely problem I start soaking the fasteners in question as much as a week ahead of time. At least overnight if possible.

 
Bend over and buy a gallon of Kroil directly from the manufacturer. You'll be set for life.
 

It is important to use an impact wrench in this situation. Using the breaker bar will break the bolt off in the spindle and then you are up the creek for a new spindle which is not cheap.

41

^^^^^THIS!!!!!!

X 1,000,000,000

Use an impact gun, if that won't take it off you are likely screwed. Breaker bar will shear the bolt.

quote:

Originally posted by MikeinNC:
Kroil

If that doesn't work, add some heat with a torch.

Then use a breaker bar and maybe have someone smack the wrench/socket with a hammer

THIS, heat and an impact wrench.

Kroil (available from Napa or Amazon) is the very best I have ever used. Key is to apply it and let it soak for sometimes hours or even days if necessary. kroil has worked for me on a couple things when PB Blaster wouldnt even budge it! It also makes a great barrel cleaner.

Corrosion X is fantastic stuff.

I haven't used it, this is more of a FYI, but the makers of WD40 do make a specific rust penetrant.

I third the Kroil or PB Blaster followed by a heat wrench. If you have time, let the penetrant soak over night tapping the bolts occasionally with a hammer as though not to damage the threads, then torch and wrench. The blue propane torches are cheap and available at HD or Lowes.

Again, Kroil is one of the best. PB Blaster is a close "second best".

I have used a combination of the above methods with success plus a 6 point socket. Letting the bolt soak with penetrating oil with a combination of hitting the head with a hammer has worked well. I have used a torch on exhaust manifolds when the above methods did not work and that worked very well also.

quote:

Originally posted by Tgrshrk99:
Corrosion X is fantastic stuff.

Corrosion X is incredible. I worked as a yacht mechanic for 20 years, this worked unbelievably well. However I have heard that Kroil is also good.

Heat and quench is excellent, and from my experience much better than heat alone.

quote:

Originally posted by c1steve:

quote:

Originally posted by Tgrshrk99:
Corrosion X is fantastic stuff.

Corrosion X is incredible. I worked as a yacht mechanic for 20 years, this worked unbelievably well. However I have heard that Kroil is also good.

Heat and quench is excellent, and from my experience much better than heat alone.

I've used and loved Corrosion-X for many years now, but I never thought of it as a penetrating oil and always used Kroil for that.
I'll have to try Corrosion-X next time I need something for a stuck bolt/nut.

I've had good luck with both PB B'laster and Kroil over the years.

An ex-USAAF/ex-USN/ex-TWA FAA guy I worked with that has since gone west swore by this: http://www.mousemilk.com/

He loved it for parts exposed to high heat. When my can of Kroil runs out, I may give it a try.

Kroil is the best and I've used just about everything out there
you have to set a vibration (sometimes) to get it to creep in _ tap on it with a hammer or get an impact wrench
if this doesn't work get the blue wrench

I've used everything listed but my go to is 75% ATF 25% DIESEL Fuel. I keep it in a spray bottle and shake it before i spray, works every time

Kroil and time. You have to give the stuff time to do it's job and keep applying it.

I had to pull the head off my dad's S-10 a couple years ago and snapped off a bolt doing so. Luckily there was a stub sticking out of the block. It wouldn't budge with the stud puller, it just slipped and stripped. I applied kroil every day for a week or so and was able to get it out with vise grips.

quote:

Originally posted by midwest guy:

quote:

Originally posted by MRMATT:
A 50-50 mixture of ATF and acetone supposedly beats all the commercially available products.

. Lab tests do recommend the above!

This mixture, by far, is the best. I found out about this on an old tractor forum. Someone posted a chart listing the foot pounds required to loosen rusted bolts after applying various penetrants, such as WD40, PB Blaster, Kroil, etc. The best penetrant listed was a 50/50 mixture of Automatic Transmission fluid and Acetone.
I tried this on a couple 11 year old shock absorber bolts on my Dodge Ram pickup, and, well, shock bolts have never loosened as easily as these.

PB Blaster and an impact tool.