Last night, about 10:00, I found I have a small leak in one of my 2 hot water heaters. It is leaking from near the drain spout at the bottom.

I'm planning on draining and attempting to diagnose tomorrow.

My first question, if I find it is from the valve area and not an issue with the integrity of the tank, can those easily be replaced?

Second, worst case scenario I have to replace the unit. What is a good brand to look at? The current ones are original to the house, so 10 years old. They are Bradford-White. My brother recently (2 years ago) bought a Rheem and said he's had to replace the elements twice.

Thanks in advance.

Erick

quote:

Originally posted by Erick85:
...original to the house, so 10 years old.

Guessing it would be better to swap them out now when you have enough time.

Is it recommended to change both at the same time or if one is working, run with it until it craps out also?

If it’s just leaking through the valve, you can put a garden hose thread cap on it. I put them on the water heaters in some of my rentals after draining the water heaters since tenants don’t always notice them leaking right away.

Not from the valve, but around the valve. I can't tell exactly where until I drain it tomorrow.

I manage two locations of a plumbing wholesale supply house. We move between 750-1000 Rheem water heaters per year, depending on the year.

Hearing that your brother has had to replace the elements twice in a Rheem heater is beyond extremely unusual. With that said, all the major brands should serve you well.

If you’re seeing leaks on one, replace both. They are designed for a 10-12 year life. Of course, you’ll hear the stories of someone getting 20 or even 30 years. Those are the exception.

The warranty upgrade from 6 to 10 or 12 years is well worth the money.

I hope that is useful info.

Bradford White is usually a quality brand and should go longer than 10 years. If it's not leaking from the shut off valve,and from around the valve it's shot, I would replace both as I would assume the other one is in about the same condition as the first one. I personally like AO Smith then Bradford White.

Midwest hard water in Louisville causes water heaters to last about 8 years before leaks start. Typical warranty is 6.

If two in series like we had it may be worth looking at replacing with a single on demand model. That's what we ended up doing.

quote:

Hot water heater

Why heat hot water?

Is it a plastic valve? that's what happened to mine. Just started cracking with age. My plumber friend replaced it with a brass spigot and it was GTG.

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Originally posted by smschulz:

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Hot water heater

Why heat hot water?

Because I want it hotter?!?

That is what I've always heard it called and it stuck.... Didn't say it made sense.

quote:

Originally posted by zoom6zoom:
Is it a plastic valve? that's what happened to mine. Just started cracking with age. My plumber friend replaced it with a brass spigot and it was GTG.

Unfortunately, no. It is brass valve.

quote:

Originally posted by Powers77:
If two in series like we had it may be worth looking at replacing with a single on demand model. That's what we ended up doing.

I've always heard if you're on electric, those don't make sense. We have 5 in the house, do a ton of laundry, dishes, etc. I know when we built, we discussed it and back then, it wouldn't have worked out. Have they gotten that much better for electric in 10 years?

Sooooo....

Just went down to check something and took off the covers at both upper and lower elements. The leak is coming from above the upper element. Changes things a bit.... Looks like I'm going to be the proud owner of a new water heater (not hot water heater smschulz....LOL).

One more question. The current models both have 4500 watt elements top and bottom. The model I'm looking at has 5500 watt elements. Should be ok as both units are on their own 30 amp circuits. Is the difference just efficiency? 5500 watt will heat the water quicker?

We do not use electric WHs here too often, usually in office space as tenants reconfigure for their use. Several online references list 30 AMP breaker and #10 wire as appropriate for 5500 watt non-simutaneous operation (which is how most electric water heaters operate).

Bradford White lists 35 AMP for 208V and 30 AMP for 240V as recommended fuse size in their residential electric water heater operation manual.

https://s3.amazonaws.com/bradf...t_iomanual_44422.pdf

How far is it from the panel to the water heater?

quote:

Originally posted by Erick85:

quote:

Originally posted by Powers77:
If two in series like we had it may be worth looking at replacing with a single on demand model. That's what we ended up doing.

I've always heard if you're on electric, those don't make sense. We have 5 in the house, do a ton of laundry, dishes, etc. I know when we built, we discussed it and back then, it wouldn't have worked out. Have they gotten that much better for electric in 10 years?

Can't speak to the electric. Ours were natural gas so it an easy transition. I do know that we have had over 5 getting ready and taking showers one after another with zero issues.

Save the headache, change both. It'll save money in the long run. Two plumber visits vs one....

I always wondered why they called them "hot water heaters." If the water's already hot, why does it need heating? Why not just "water heater?"

If you are looking at replacing anyways, I'd check out the hybrid heat pump and element Water Heaters.

There were rebate incentives last year, not sure if any are still in effect though.

I was told by furnace guy that the price difference didn't warrant replacing an already good water heater, but that when it fails it will make sense to upgrade to the heat pump version at that time.