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quote:
Originally posted by smschulz:
quote:
Hot water heater


Why heat hot water? Confused


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I think this was about the 4th thing I ever read when I joined the S.F.
Big Grin





Safety, Situational Awareness and proficiency.



Neck Ties, Hats and ammo brass, Never ,ever touch'em w/o asking first
 
Posts: 55277 | Location: Henry County , Il | Registered: February 10, 2004Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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quote:
Originally posted by Erick85:
Sooooo....

Just went down to check something and took off the covers at both upper and lower elements. The leak is coming from above the upper element. Changes things a bit.... Looks like I'm going to be the proud owner of a new water heater (not hot water heater smschulz....LOL).

One more question. The current models both have 4500 watt elements top and bottom. The model I'm looking at has 5500 watt elements. Should be ok as both units are on their own 30 amp circuits. Is the difference just efficiency? 5500 watt will heat the water quicker?


Yes, it will just heat water quicker and recover quicker. It should use the same electricity to raise the water the same amount of temperature.
 
Posts: 21421 | Registered: June 12, 2005Reply With QuoteReport This Post
Do---or do not.
There is no try.
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My wife and I are having to look for a new gas water heater. What’s everyone’s opinion of the A.O. Smith brand sold by Lowe’s?
 
Posts: 4582 | Registered: January 01, 2004Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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Ended up going with this model:

Going to get up tomorrow morning and start the tear out of the old one and install of the new one. I’m not replacing the second one right now, but probably will within the next 3 months or so.
 
Posts: 2176 | Location: St. Louis | Registered: January 28, 2006Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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quote:
Originally posted by snoris:
My wife and I are having to look for a new gas water heater. What’s everyone’s opinion of the A.O. Smith brand sold by Lowe’s?


I just put a 50 gallon 12 year electric AO Smith in my house. They are a good water heater.
 
Posts: 21421 | Registered: June 12, 2005Reply With QuoteReport This Post
Lawyers, Guns
and Money
Picture of chellim1
posted Hide Post
quote:
Originally posted by Erick85:
Ended up going with this model:

Going to get up tomorrow morning and start the tear out of the old one and install of the new one. I’m not replacing the second one right now, but probably will within the next 3 months or so.

Keep your receipt and write the in-service date on the outside of the heater when you install it. Home Depot is good about honoring the warranty and I got a new hot water heater out of their 12 year warranty when mine went out a few years ago. Mine is gas but I also had the 12 year warranty.



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Posts: 24745 | Location: St. Louis, MO | Registered: April 03, 2009Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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Picture of sigcrazy7
posted Hide Post
quote:
Originally posted by jimmy123x:
quote:
Originally posted by Erick85:
Sooooo....

Just went down to check something and took off the covers at both upper and lower elements. The leak is coming from above the upper element. Changes things a bit.... Looks like I'm going to be the proud owner of a new water heater (not hot water heater smschulz....LOL).

One more question. The current models both have 4500 watt elements top and bottom. The model I'm looking at has 5500 watt elements. Should be ok as both units are on their own 30 amp circuits. Is the difference just efficiency? 5500 watt will heat the water quicker?


Yes, it will just heat water quicker and recover quicker. It should use the same electricity to raise the water the same amount of temperature.


Ha! You will use more electricity because your teenage daughter will shower that much longer. Speaking from personal experience. Smile

I'm scared to get a continuous water heater because I may never her out of the shower.



Demand not that events should happen as you wish; but wish them to happen as they do happen, and you will go on well. -Epictetus
 
Posts: 8292 | Location: Utah | Registered: December 18, 2008Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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For an electric water heater, not really a big deal with any brand.

Gas fired, Bradford White then A. O. Smith.

Watts is Btu. 3.413 per watt. More watts, faster recovery time. Takes the same Btus to heat the water, so no difference in efficiency. Watts is watts....




 
Posts: 10062 | Registered: October 15, 2008Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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Picture of mjohn
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quote:
Originally posted by Erick85:
Ended up going with this model:

Going to get up tomorrow morning and start the tear out of the old one and install of the new one. I’m not replacing the second one right now, but probably will within the next 3 months or so.


My H2O heater took a dump today. It has an electronic circuit board that went tits up. It can be replaced, but the heater is 12 years old so I am considering the unit you have selected.

I am not 100% convinced about the circuit board heaters. This one is loaded with features. However, I can't wait to much longer as wife y wants hot water now. Anyway, Monday will be the earliest that I can get an install.
 
Posts: 1465 | Location: Sandbox City VA | Registered: September 26, 2005Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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I installed the unit today. Took me about 4 hours with me taking my time. I had to drain both units, unhook the electric and water lines to the bad unit, get the new one in place and measure/cut/sweat the new copper pieces.

I can't give my opinion yet of the unit itself, but it does have good reviews on Home Depot's website. We were fortunate enough to have the second, functioning unit. So, while we had to space our showers out for a few days, we still had hot water.
 
Posts: 2176 | Location: St. Louis | Registered: January 28, 2006Reply With QuoteReport This Post
Do---or do not.
There is no try.
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Thanks for letting me lurk in this discussion to figure out what water heater my wife and I should get. We decided on a Rheem Performance Plus 50-gallon gas model.

As usual, SigForum is a great resource for just about everything.
 
Posts: 4582 | Registered: January 01, 2004Reply With QuoteReport This Post
in the end karma
always catches up
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My water heater was in the house when I moved in 14 years ago. I keep an eye on these threads because I figure it’s just a matter of time.


" The people shall have a right to bear arms, for the defense of themselves and the State" Art 1 Sec 32 Indiana State Constitution

YAT-YAS
 
Posts: 3743 | Location: Northwest, In | Registered: December 03, 2004Reply With QuoteReport This Post
semi-reformed sailor
Picture of MikeinNC
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quote:
Originally posted by Valpo Fz:
My water heater was in the house when I moved in 14 years ago. I keep an eye on these threads because I figure it’s just a matter of time.


14 years is a really good run. Start picking up the parts now. Flex hose from the installed pipes, Teflon tape, some bandaids...that way next time you change it, it will be even faster.



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Posts: 11516 | Location: Temple, Texas! | Registered: October 07, 2006Reply With QuoteReport This Post
Nosce te ipsum
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quote:
Originally posted by MikeinNC: Flex hose from the installed pipes, Teflon tape,


I have ¾" Sharkbite x ¾" FIP connecting my WH at the moment. I'm thinking I should have soldered ¾" male adaptors to the copper and used ¾" female x ¾" female braided stainless flex connectors instead. The female connector ends act as unions, squeezing a high temp neoprene washer; no tape required; maybe a spot of dope on the washers.

A friend just picked up a Ridgid cordless Propress device and bags of ¾" fittings. Says it will pay for itself in just a couple of WH jobs with increased productivity.

Press water and fuel gas fittings are not yet in the local code book but are now approved in commercial applications (PEX and Sharkbite are not).
 
Posts: 8759 | Registered: March 24, 2004Reply With QuoteReport This Post
safe & sound
Picture of a1abdj
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quote:
I had to drain both units, unhook the electric and water lines to the bad unit, get the new one in place and measure/cut/sweat the new copper pieces.



Too late now, but you should have installed valves for each heater while you were at it. That way you don't need to shut it all down and/or drain both units to service one of them.


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Posts: 15917 | Location: St. Charles, MO, USA | Registered: September 22, 2003Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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quote:
Originally posted by a1abdj:
quote:
I had to drain both units, unhook the electric and water lines to the bad unit, get the new one in place and measure/cut/sweat the new copper pieces.



Too late now, but you should have installed valves for each heater while you were at it. That way you don't need to shut it all down and/or drain both units to service one of them.


They are plumbed in series. I will probably be replacing the other one in a few months. I would have to sit down and figure it out, but could probably accomplish that at that point. Makes sense to do it.
 
Posts: 2176 | Location: St. Louis | Registered: January 28, 2006Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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posted Hide Post
quote:
Originally posted by Erick85:
quote:
Originally posted by a1abdj:
quote:
I had to drain both units, unhook the electric and water lines to the bad unit, get the new one in place and measure/cut/sweat the new copper pieces.



Too late now, but you should have installed valves for each heater while you were at it. That way you don't need to shut it all down and/or drain both units to service one of them.


They are plumbed in series. I will probably be replacing the other one in a few months. I would have to sit down and figure it out, but could probably accomplish that at that point. Makes sense to do it.


You can also isolate one of the water heaters and shut the other one off completely during periods of low demand when only 1 or 2 people are living in the house.
 
Posts: 21421 | Registered: June 12, 2005Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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We have 5 in the house, my wife and I and 3 kids. They are 13, 11 and 9.... they will be here for a while..LOL
 
Posts: 2176 | Location: St. Louis | Registered: January 28, 2006Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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Picture of sigcrazy7
posted Hide Post
quote:
Originally posted by jimmy123x:
quote:
Originally posted by Erick85:
quote:
Originally posted by a1abdj:
quote:
I had to drain both units, unhook the electric and water lines to the bad unit, get the new one in place and measure/cut/sweat the new copper pieces.



Too late now, but you should have installed valves for each heater while you were at it. That way you don't need to shut it all down and/or drain both units to service one of them.


They are plumbed in series. I will probably be replacing the other one in a few months. I would have to sit down and figure it out, but could probably accomplish that at that point. Makes sense to do it.


You can also isolate one of the water heaters and shut the other one off completely during periods of low demand when only 1 or 2 people are living in the house.


During periods of low demand, I would still let the water run into both, but turn the first one off. The deactivated tank acts as a tempering tank.



Demand not that events should happen as you wish; but wish them to happen as they do happen, and you will go on well. -Epictetus
 
Posts: 8292 | Location: Utah | Registered: December 18, 2008Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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I also recommend checking the water connection on your electric WH. there is a specialty di-electric connection for the inlet/outlet water connections that help prevent corrosion on pipes and fittings. 10 years ago this may not have been required for residential codes.

ymmv
john
 
Posts: 476 | Location: Greensboro, NC | Registered: November 26, 2009Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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