Hmm. Its possible IF is the cables were reverse polarity, it could have popped a diode in the alternator.


Also, set the brake, put the truck in neutral and see if it's the neutral safety switch.(I assume it's automatic)


The main 30 amp fuse will disable ALL electrical.
Big pink one behind the little panel under divers side of dash.
(co-worker has a 2006)

What's a neutral safety switch?

quote:

Originally posted by parabellum:
What's a neutral safety switch?

It keeps the vehicle from being started in gear/drive
My little Ranger I have to bump the column shifter every once and a while to get it to engage.

My honda has it on the clutch

Sorry, but thinking one of those blue fuses. I cannot access what they are on the link you provided. I would of thought those would of been pin style where you just pull them out. But maybe not on your rig.
As was mentioned it is probably a major Higher amp. fuse. In Chevy's you cannot tell whether they are not working by looking at them.
It may take a deeper dive than just replacing a fuse. But we have some really good mechanics here. So hope someone cannot pinpoint a simple fix.

Here's an interactive fuse diagram that might be useful:

https://www.startmycar.com/toy...ma/info/fusebox/2007

Check if you have this fuse at the top and if it is blown. (visually or continuity test)

The one below is for the starter.

quote:

Originally posted by ScreamingCockatoo:

quote:

Originally posted by parabellum:
What's a neutral safety switch?

It keeps the vehicle from being started in gear/drive

Well, I never noticed before, or this may be something new, but the transmission won't come out of park. Normally, when the truck is running, I have to step on the brake, but I never noticed how it behaves when the engine is off.

It is possible the abs fuse would cause a no start condition.

Any of those fuses should be user replaceable but a bugger to get out. They may be bolted in to the bottom of the fuse box.

Example: https://www.tacomaworld.com/th...-fuse-change.390441/

For $20 for a one month subscription, I’d check into All-Data. https://www.alldata.com/diy-us...hicle/plan?vid=43755 it’s helped me a lot.

quote:

Originally posted by parabellum:

quote:

Originally posted by ScreamingCockatoo:

quote:

Originally posted by parabellum:
What's a neutral safety switch?

It keeps the vehicle from being started in gear/drive

Well, I never noticed before, or this may be something new, but the transmission won't come out of park. Normally, when the truck is running, I have to step on the brake, but I never noticed how it behaves when the engine is off.

With the key on?
If it won't disengage with the key on, you definitely have a power from battery problem.
As there is a lock the disengages the column with the brake pedal.

quote:

Originally posted by parabellum:

quote:

Originally posted by old rugged cross:
Did you get that square fuse removed?

What square fuse? These ones like the ABS fuse- I'm not so sure they are user-replaceable. I tried to pull on it but I don't want to make things worse.

The square unmarked blue, gray, and red boxes at the bottom are relays, not fuses.

quote:

Originally posted by ScreamingCockatoo:
With the key on?
If it won't disengage with the key on, you definitely have a power from battery problem.
As there is a lock the disengages the column with the brake pedal.

Right. With the key on, and pressing the brake pedal, it will not come out of park.

And I just discovered that I have no brake lights, either.

What a mess. Over windshield washer fluid.

bingo, if fuses are all good could one of the "relays" be the issue?
And if jumping and reversing the cables happened what specific problem would that of caused. Back to the original question.

AI says:

quote:

Yes, allowing a car battery to completely drain can sometimes disrupt the car's computer systems enough that even with a new battery, the car might not start due to potential damage to sensitive electronic components within the vehicle's computer modules; this is because a completely dead battery can cause voltage spikes which can affect the delicate circuitry.

Do you have access to an OBD diagnostic scanner?

There is a 140 bolt on alternator fuse.
COMMON ISSUE for reverse polarity jump start issue.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aUnXxWYtf2A

look at fuse 4 It's a 10 amp mini fuse

STOP) Stop lights, high mounted stop light, vehicle stability control system, anti-lock brake system, shift lock system, multiport fuel injection system/ sequential multiport fuel injection system, towing

Yes, checked it, it looked fine, replaced it anyway, no effect.

Sigmonkey and SC have it, if it lines up with your box. Looks like it’s actually like a 120amp fuse and will be bolted in.

quote:

Originally posted by ScreamingCockatoo:
There is a 140 bolt on alternator fuse.
COMMON ISSUE for reverse polarity jump start issue.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aUnXxWYtf2A

Yeah, what he's doing on that video- no way I'd try that.

I kinda figured it was out of your comfort zone.

Sucks I don't have one of my engineers closer.
They're all in Chattanooga at them moment.

Yeah, looks like it's getting towed and it's probably end up being 1200 bucks or something like that, if I'm lucky.

I don't know, maybe I could try that. Would that alternator fuse account for all of this?

Jesus, it was running like a top before I screwed up.