Wife texted the battery light is on, so it's either a bad battery or charging system issue and I'm leaning toward the battery since it's 5 years old factory original.

Costco has the AGM for $169 or the SLA for $129, for $40 I'm leaning AGM, but wondered if there is any reason to spend that extra money considering the CCA are 76 vs 760, CA 750 vs 910 and warranty is the same.

Both are Interstate Batteries, and on that note, Sams has Duracell for a bit more money, AGM vs SLA.

So AGM VS SLA,,, Interstate vs Duracell

Advance and Autozone have similar but much higher priced options, as much as $70 more for similar Duralast type model

Interesting tidbit Walmart sells an AGM battery, and I'd suspect it's a Duracell battery in Walmart cloths, they look exactly the same and it's $20 less for the same Group 48 model. Go figure, guess you pay more at the store you expect to pay less because you are a member, from it's public access superstore.

Just found that Costco now pro-rates the 3 year warranty, used to be full replacement, WalMart Maxx has 4 year full replacement on AGM and it's only $10 more...

AGM.
Another advantage is no electrolyte seepage means no battery box or terminal corrosion.

You may need to wash the area when she gets home to remove any from the old batery.

Word of caution. How old is your wife's car? The reason I ask is that some years ago I replaced the battery in my truck with an AGM battery (newer, better right?)

Everything was fine until it died while transporting a whole truckload of Boy Scouts on the way back from camp. Jumped it, kept dying. Drove it to the mechanic.

Come to find out the alternator in my 2011 Tundra doesn't generate enough voltage to adequately charge the AGM battery, which is why it kept dying. Replaced the battery with a standard battery and problemo solved. That was a $300 lesson.

quote:

Originally posted by Milliron:
Word of caution. How old is your wife's car? The reason I ask is that some years ago I replaced the battery in my truck with an AGM battery (newer, better right?)

2019 Lincoln so that should not be the issue, down here 5 years on a battery is like hitting the lotto.

quote:

Costco has the AGM for $169 or the SLA for $129, for $40 I'm leaning AGM, but wondered if there is any reason to spend that extra money considering the CCA are 76 vs 760, CA 750 vs 910 and warranty is the same.

Both are Interstate Batteries, and on that note, Sams has Duracell for a bit more money, AGM vs SLA.

So AGM VS SLA,,, Interstate vs Duracell

Advance and Autozone have similar but much higher priced options, as much as $70 more for similar Duralast type model

I used to buy my batteries at Advance Auto Parts but they've become so high there that I started looking for alternatives.

I considered a Sams Club Duracell ...
but bought the equivalent from Deka (East Penn) batteries.
https://sigforum.com/eve/forum...760083015#3760083015

I'd probably go with the Costco options but have no opinion on whether the AGM would last longer.

Go to youtube and look up the channel "Project Farm". Then search for his video where he tests car batteries. Its a great channel, and he compares these two types of batteries and multiple batteries from each brand. Its a great channel overall but this video would suit you well.

Another vote for AGM.

Mine has given me no issues since 2012.

quote:

Originally posted by .38supersig:
Another vote for AGM.
Mine has given me no issues since 2012.

12 years?
Sounds like AGM would be worth an extra $40.

https://www.interstatebatterie...d-whats-the-big-deal

AGM.
Toyotas ECU needs to be reprogramed to provide correct voltage for an AGM.
Costco replaced my Interstate SLA when it didn't hold a charge for an AGM-no questions, no voltage check. Used for about 9 months--AGM's were now in stock--easy swap.

SLA in Florida. AGMs can’t take the heat. Both last about the same for me, but like you mentioned, SLA costs less.

AGM batteries handle vibration better than SLA batteries, so if you’re wife is hitting the trails, AGM may be worth it.

This message has been edited. Last edited by: trapper189,

AGM.

No leakage and I get about 50% longer life than a regular battery.

quote:

Originally posted by SIGfourme:
AGM.
Toyotas ECU needs to be reprogramed to provide correct voltage for an AGM.
Costco replaced my Interstate SLA when it didn't hold a charge for an AGM-no questions, no voltage check. Used for about 9 months--AGM's were now in stock--easy swap.

This is not true. Had an AGM in a 2012 Highlander and currently have one in a 2014 Tundra no reprogramming needed.
No charging issues whatsoever.

I go with AGM X2 Power batteries because it gets super cold here and the CCAs are much higher. The X2 power batteries are a deep cycle/cranking battery.
So even if it gets fully drained for some reason there is no damage to the battery.
I also off-road a bit and they are better with vibration.
With all the electronics in vehicles today I feel AGMs last longer.

quote:

2019 Lincoln

Out of abundance of caution, I'd use whatever type came in it as OEM.

Four year replacement warranty is the way to go. I got 3 years out the two WalMart group 65s in my truck and got replacements under warranty.

Y’all have me curious now..I have a 2007 Toyota 4Runner that’s had AGM type batteries for the past several years with no issues.

I think Milliron's alternator is jank. AGM's don't like to be charged/discharged at high rates the way a lead-acid can tolerate, but 21st century cars will not see a difference in normal use.

Toyota wouldn't F that up IMO.

I hear "mechanics" say outlandish things all the time. All the time.

ALL THE TIME.

quote:

Originally posted by DoctorSolo:
I think Milliron's alternator is jank. AGM's don't like to be charged/discharged at high rates the way a lead-acid can tolerate, but 21st century cars will not see a difference in normal use.

Toyota wouldn't F that up IMO.

I hear "mechanics" say outlandish things all the time. All the time.

ALL THE TIME.

Somewhere this idea that vehicles need a voltage booster for AGM batteries came into play. People are using some GM diode to boost voltage.
It’s everywhere on the Toyota forums. Don’t know where it started but it’s nonsense for modern vehicles.
I have been using AGM for years now on Toyota, GM, and Fords never did anything but put the new battery where the old was.
All have been the X2 Power batteries except one NAPA Legend. Never had one issue. I even reached out to the X2 power folks and they said no reason to boost the voltage.

Changed my 2016 VW's battery to AGM. Reprogrammed the ECU based on what I read. I set the "capacity" to the new size/rating, set the "Battery Technology" to "Fleece" which supposedly means a standard AGM, and then "serial number" which basically you can input anything you want.

So here's the deal, took it to Advance, had the battery and alternator checked, both are working perfectly.

Turns out the notice was the warning that her fob battery is low, sent me a picture today.

Seems that the FOB I used, the spare has a good battery, so off to Publix for a 2450 and it's done.

Can't complain, saved two hondos!

Nice!

True story:

Wife:
There’s a green light on on the dash. It looks kind headlights or something.

Me:
Are your headlights on?

Wife:
Well yeah, it’s raining so I turned them on.

Me:
What happens to the green light that looks like headlights when turn the headlights off?

Wife:
It went off.

Me:
The light lets you know your headlights are on.

Wife:
Well that’s stupid.