I currently have a weiser lock which is supposed to be pretty good (at least 25 years ago?). However, while I know it's not the weakest link in the house, I'm feeling a little compelled to replace it with something more secure (more Grade 1 pick resistant).

I was thinking about:
1. Schlage keyless electronic. No keys and so harder to pick. No bluetooth or wifi to hack. However, it's known to be somewhat easy to bypass with a drill if you're familiar w/ the internals. But again, the front door deadbolt won't be the weakest link (or at least the only one - there is always a window or patio door). Grade 2 residential lock that would be just a step harder to pick than the current weiser.

2. Bigger step up to a Abloy (protec2), Mul-T-Lock or Medeco 4 Maxum. The problem here is cost ($600 vs $200 for the Schlage). Second problem is I can't find a local dealer who carries them (need to be special ordered?). Third, would need to carry a key. The plus is that you can one configured with a removable thumb turn on the inside (like a double cylinder lock - useful for vacations? But again, front deadbolt is not the weakest link so maybe not really that valuable as a feature).

Acknowledging that the front deadbolt is not the weakest link, any opinions on:

1. get the Schlage. Keyless is nice.
2. get the Abloy (or Medeco or Mul-T-Lock).
3. Just stay w/ the Weiser and save a buck unless you want to go keyless. No reason to spend money when other weak links are available.

Thanks.

Is this for a residential or commercial door? If residential go to Securehome.org and look for AAA graded deadbolts and entry locks. If commercial, go BHMA's website and choose the type of lock from the CPD and then see what manufacturers are listed and certified to the relevant BHMA/ANSI standard. Commercial are graded 1,2,3; resi locks are graded on three different criteria on A, B, C scales.

I've served on BHMA's Board and Executive committee for 35+ years, and am the VP of Industry Affairs for ASSA ABLOY, the parent of Kwikset, Baldwin, Level, Sargent, Norton, Adams Rite, HES, Securitron, Medeco... and about 150 other brands.

I don't have any suggestions for the dead bolt since I have keyed WiFi electronic dead bolts on 4 house exterior house doors that open to the house or to the outside. I like the key so I can still get in if the battery or electronics fail. I like the Wifi because I can easily check if any door is open and can open or close it wherever I may be. I also have an alarm system.

However, since you're looking to harden the front door, I suggest you look for YouTube videos. It's been a while so I don't remember them all but replacing the latch screws with longer screws was one of them. They also sell door hardening kits that includes a long steel strip that you screw to the frame to prevent people from busting down your door. I think there were even a couple of threads here but that may have been before the forum's auto prune feature was turned off.

We have connected Schlage deadbolts and are very pleased with them. Except they use AA batteries and are very picky about the end caps. The negative end has to be an ’outie’, not a flat end. They are not the current gen; they are previous. I wanted Apple HomeKit compatibility.

We had the non-connected Schlage at the previous house, and liked those as well.

The new ones give us the ability to know who has used the keypad for access. Also can tell the lock status from anywhere. Yes it’s a theoretical vulnerability; so is the rock in the garden next to your slider.

I’ve read good things about the Yale smart lock but no experience.

As for keyways and picking/bumping, we’ve not had much up here. I -think- some of the Schlage locks can be switched to Medeco cylinders. They also may be able to use the higher security Schlage cylinders/keys.

ETA: plus I love not carrying a key. My car only requires that I have the fob on me (and work has a keycard) so I don’t have to touch a key most days.

The advice I got from a guy that lived in “the hood” in LA was to install a second deadbolt up high.
Harder for guys to kick it in since they can’t put direct foot energy on just one deadbolt.

All the other suggestions apply, way longer screws that go into not just the door jam but into the studs surrounding it.
I’ve kicked in numerous doors during my working days…sometimes not only the door went flying but also had the door jam still attached to it. Plan accordingly so that doesn’t happen.

ETA: *quote* “But again, the front door deadbolt won't be the weakest link (or at least the only one - there is always a window or patio door).”

Pin that patio door and all your windows. A small drill bit and some nails are all you need.
If they are going to break it, make it harder and force them to make more noise!

Do you have windows? I think I could kick in a window faster than I could kick in a door.
Arm yourself, It's the only way to be sure!

The door and frame need to be the strongest link on your security. For a lock, I would not rely on electronics. And yes I have extra high deadbolts on some doors and some long screws in it.

I thought I recall the lock picking lawyer pick the electronic locks pretty easily. I am also curious about a good dead bolt.

I do not have to worry about my front or rear door being kicked in since they both open outward (I replaced both of them and set them up this way). I do have to worry about the lock being defeated.

As others have mentioned, there are much easier ways for a bad guy to get into your house other than dealing with a well secured door.

I was visiting a friend who had just finished securing his entry door with steel plates and long screws. There were two glass panels maybe 18 inches wide and four feet high on each side of his door. It would have been very little trouble for the bad guy to smash either one with a hammer and walk right in.

Maybe investing in an alarm system might be more productive. The problem with that is, at least in our area, is that the average response time for a county sheriff is more than 30 minutes.

Locks are for honest people. Bad guys are going to get in one way or another if they really want to. In 34 years as a LEO (and I'm sure other LEO's here will agree) the majority of the burglaries I've been to have been through windows or entrances other than front doors. It's always a good idea to make sure all your entrances are extra secure. But also make sure you have cameras and of course I always recommend a German Shepherd or two.

I have a bunch of the Mul-T-Locks. The ones with a removable key on the inside which get removed when we leave on vacation or for the summer. That way if someone breaks in through a window, they still have break through the door to get the big stuff out.

In one house the replaced real Baldwin locks, or the Home Depot Baldwin. The real Baldwin locks were a big step up from Schlage and the Mul-T-Locks were a big step up from real Baldwin. We paid about $300 each installed, but that 10 and 15 years ago.

The new to us house has a Schlage electronic lock that can be internet connected. We had a bunch of people coming and going doing remodeling so it was nice to give them their own code, but beyond that it offers no advantage I can think of over a key.

The locks are just one layer.

I've used these to good effect in the past, and the lockpickinglawyer likes them.

https://www.easilok.com/collections/deadbolt-lock

I'd use a basic quality keyed deadbolt and longer screws for the striker plate.
I'm no expert but I'd bet more than 95% of homes that are actually broken into are not done by a James Bond type with a lock pick or any sort of technical expertise or tools. The most common tool is probably a prybar or large rock.

Make a prioritized list with the most obvious weak points, many are cheap to fix. Then go down the list.

Remember the hiking expression, you don't need to be able to outrun the bear, just your friend.

Check out Door Club on home depot, or similar floor insert security bars as an option.

My first question would be is your door frame strong enough to take a really solid blow. If so, better deadbolts might be worth the effort and expense. If not, I would spend the money on enhancing the structural integrity of the opening rather than upgrading the lock.

I have personally both kicked a door in by shattering the door frame and punched a mullioned window out to reach in and open a door. The locks had nothing to do with it.

While there are some excellent suggestions already posted let me add another one that may be easier and just as effective.

This assumes that your latch side frame doesn’t have a side transom and that you can install multiple 3”+ screws into the door jamb framing.

https://doorlocksdirect.com/do...8-w/#tab-description

As you said you have other more susceptible areas so this is just an improvement over what you probably have.

quote:

Originally posted by smlsig:
While there are some excellent suggestions already posted let me add another one that may be easier and just as effective.

This assumes that your latch side frame doesn’t have a side transom and that you can install multiple 3”+ screws into the door jamb framing.

https://doorlocksdirect.com/do...8-w/#tab-description

As you said you have other more susceptible areas so this is just an improvement over what you probably have.

The high security deadbolt strike plates I’ve seen are similar with multiple screw holes, but also have a steel box around the edges of the rectangular cutout for the latch bolt. That box is recessed into the door frame so the bolt is surrounded by steel on all 4 sides when closed, not just the wood of the frame. Don’t know if that helps to defend against a kicking attack, but it might.

A $160.00 lock sounds great, but combined with a $45.00 frame,
Well
You will be sorely disappointed in the whole
setup.

Thanks guys, appreciate the inputs.

I've got 3" screws in the strike plate side. I can put longer ones in but I think it's already 3". I've got alarms and cameras. If someone is around the house and/or inside the house, I'll know (well, I'll get notified; if I'm not near the phone then I'll miss the notification).

The schlage is Grade 2 / AAA, though I feel it may be on the slightly generous / benefit of the doubt side. The Abloy Protec2 is Grade 1 (sounds like a very solid Grade 1). Weiser I believe is grade 2.

The point for me for going to the schlage is keyless, including no backup key (key locks subject to picking / bumping is what I'm trying to avoid; the key system for Abloy, Mul-T-Lock, Medeco seem much more robust than what Schlage uses. I rarely use the front door to enter so I'm not too worried about failure. If the front door, garage door and garage door opener all fail, then the final backup would be to break a garage window.

I'm not too worried about front door being kicked in. A determined guy is going to enter the house - front door, window, patio door (glass) - lots of choices. I'll get notified of each but I can't really stop a determined guy from entering. BTW, patio door is secured but they could always break the glass (sliding glass door).

What I am worried about is making it too easy and having it be silent / discreet (especially if I'm home and the alarm is off). Picking the deadbolt would be too quick and silent (quiet 10 seconds?).

So, I'm still facing 3 options:
1. stay as-is w/ the weiser
2. install keyless schlage
3. install high security, keyed deadbolt (Abloy Protec2; how to purchase is still elusive. Also may require some frame work and new tool purchases). Honestly, I'm not even sure how to specify which model I want - jargon.

quote:

Originally posted by smlsig:
https://doorlocksdirect.com/do...8-w/#tab-description

I’ve built a few plates like that, though they were 3/16” thick steel, an inch and a quarter wide, and 36” long.
Installing them required some chiseling to get them recessed properly. Each used six or eight screws, I believe. Once they were puttied and painted, they were nearly unnoticeable. The customer was way happy with them.

- - - - -

I’m chuckling now, because I remember making those with a drill, a jigsaw, and a file. I’ve got access to a proper milling machine now, which will make the next ones way easier to make!