Another idea, already mentioned, is to use a fuse block. You'll have two heavy cables (positive and negative) connecting the block to the battery. Then you can add individual devices, each with their own rated fuse. Together with the mil-spec battery terminals, it makes for a very clean battery area, with just two cables attached to each terminal.
 
I used this one on my FJ-40 rebuild:
Blue Sea fuse block.

quote:

Originally posted by jimmy123x:
You can also run 1 cable (other than the starter cable and properly sized) to a terminal block and connect the other wires to the terminal block.

This is in my final plan. At the moment the only choice is just to take it to the top of the fuse box which is a pain if you need to get to the factory fuses.
When weather warms I will fab up a mount for the fuse block. Folks make a nice one for the Tacoma but dimensionally won’t work with the Tundra.
I’ll do something similar but not fiddling and fooling with all that in 30* weather.

quote:

Originally posted by snidera:
Why are you running strait to the battery for small loads in the cab? A USB port is going to draw <5A, probably more like 3max, the wondow module probably less (assuming it controls, not powers). There's plenty of good spots on the lower left of the dash fuse block you can pull power for both.

I'll pull the PDB drawing tomorrow & give you circuits with headroom if you want to go that route. Don't poke a hole in the firewall for <10A.

I also dislike using fuse taps. Gets a little messy and usually have trouble getting trim panels to set flush again. Plus trying to find a constant that is actually a constant in Toyota’s is a pain as may of them stay on a delay of an hour or so.

The window control module specifically says not to tap into anything and run the power directly to the battery. I am going to presume it controls and powers the window motors as it allows the windows to be rolled down via remote.
A feature not available with Toyota and generally once doors have been opened and some time has gone by one cannot control the windows from the buttons.

This allows one to come back to the vehicle push the unlock sequence on the remote and they roll down. Also if you want them to go up.
Thankfully there is a very easily accessible grommet in the firewall that I just ran that power lead next to the factory harness. Which I will do the same with the USB.

This is the USB port I have. It specifically calls it a +/- wire harness so I guess I do need to run it to the negative terminal.
The kit just wants you to tap into your current power port but I need constant power which Toyota is not kind enough to give any constant power ports.
https://www.ics-fab.com/collec...sh-mount-usb-charger

I’m by far an electrical expert but this is what I’ve used on my various overland builds...

https://www.waytekwire.com/ite...2303-Common-BusBar-/

There are several options based on the size of the wire and terminal rings you’ll be using.

We didn't start building that fuse block until '17, so I can't say exactly what circuit I'd use. I thought it was 14 or 15. A 15A that isn't used continuously would likely be fine for 3A. Maintain wire size ~16GA. Usually, anything with a motor in the rear of the vehicle/cab will have quite a bit of capacity on the wire size due to inrush & distance.

Fuse taps & vampires suck. Cut a wire & butt-splice an extra wire on one side, or both. It's easier & a better connection. You can usually fit 2x 16GA in a 14-16 (blue) splice. I like the heat-shrink style because the insulation portion gives a bit and doesn't screw with the placement when you crimp the strands.
We double-crimp often (machine crimping). If you need more than 2 in a crimp, you should probably solder. We would heat weld/press the copper together for 3-8 circuits, hard to get 3+ to line up & be sure you get a good crimp by hand.

quote:

Originally posted by jimmy123x:
You can also run 1 cable (other than the starter cable and properly sized) to a terminal block and connect the other wires to the terminal block.

That was my thought, just run one from the battery, cleaner, easier, and less to go wrong.

Link to US Amazon Part Listing


Updated with USA Amazon Linky

This message has been edited. Last edited by: HRK,

quote:

Originally posted by HRK:
Power distribution block

Plus you'll get ~20% discount if you order from that Canadian link!

 
I thought I'd add, after fracturing a mil-spec terminal once by gorilla tightening it, that I researched torque specs for top post battery terminals. Surprisingly, it is not much, somewhere around 90 in/lbs. I've been doing mine to 90 ever since. They don't budge at all, and you're safe from damaging the terminal or the post (down inside the battery).

quote:

Originally posted by snidera:
Why are you running strait to the battery for small loads in the cab? A USB port is going to draw <5A, probably more like 3max, the wondow module probably less (assuming it controls, not powers). There's plenty of good spots on the lower left of the dash fuse block you can pull power for both.

I'll pull the PDB drawing tomorrow & give you circuits with headroom if you want to go that route. Don't poke a hole in the firewall for <10A.

This is correct. Do not connect multiple small wires to the battery terminal, use a spot on the fuse box or other location.

Keep the battery connection simple and as basic as possible. If you really need a point to attach additional wires, use something like one of these: https://www.bluesea.com/produc...Fuse_Blocks/ST_Blade

quote:

Originally posted by c1steve:

quote:

Originally posted by snidera:
Why are you running strait to the battery for small loads in the cab? A USB port is going to draw <5A, probably more like 3max, the wondow module probably less (assuming it controls, not powers). There's plenty of good spots on the lower left of the dash fuse block you can pull power for both.

I'll pull the PDB drawing tomorrow & give you circuits with headroom if you want to go that route. Don't poke a hole in the firewall for <10A.

This is correct. Do not connect multiple small wires to the battery terminal, use a spot on the fuse box or other location.

Keep the battery connection simple and as basic as possible. If you really need a point to attach additional wires, use something like one of these: https://www.bluesea.com/produc...Fuse_Blocks/ST_Blade

I plan to use one of these.
https://www.bluesea.com/produc...gative_Bus_and_Cover

Just too cold for me to fab up a mount for it right now.