I have a little wiring to do and want to tidy the battery area up a bit. Purely cosmetic but still want to do it.
I am looking for an easy to install upgraded battery terminals that will accommodate 3 added power wires.
So far I have found the following:
GP SAE 6 SPOT BATTERY TERMINALS HEAVY DUTY https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B0..._encoding=UTF8&psc=1

But these things are GIGANTIC, have far more provisions than I need, and I prefer the Positive terminal to be covered in the least.

I have also come across these Kickers that look really good but not sure they will accept three extra power wires. Is it safe to stack three ring terminals on the side?

Kicker 46BT4 Car Audio Positive - Negative Power Wire Cable Battery Terminal BT4 https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B0...c_fabc_Jy.1FbX4F76DX

This is a really clean setup that I am looking for.


Does anyone have any other terminal suggestions?

So now to the actual wiring questions. Excuse the dumb questions as I absolutely HATE wiring. Biggest problem is I just really don’t fully understand how it works.

So first question what type of wire or wire loom is that coming off the positive terminal. I really would like my 3 wire leads that I am adding to look clean like that.

I do not like wiring and I do not like Cutting or splicing factory wires.
I am adding a USB power port and want constant power so it will be one of the provisions connected to the battery. The port has a red and black wire. I know the red wire will go directly to the battery but needs to be fused. This port will be powering Samsung Galaxy Tablet and an iPhone Charger. What size fuse should I use. Also Is my understanding correct that the fuse should be closer to the battery?
Then where does the black wire go? Does it go to a chassis ground or is it wired to the negative battery terminal?

Eventually I will likely do a fuse block but the only simple way to mount one looks like crap and mounts to the top of the fuse box.
When warmer weather hits I will likely figure out a fuse block mount that will look better. but for now will just be wiring directly to the battery with independent fuses. I can tuck the wires nicely in the engine back for now.

Again, sorry for the dumb questions I am just out of my wheel house.

You can stack two ring terminals if you turn the bottom one over . Adding a third will get wonky looking .

https://www.custombatterycables.com

You can get custom cables made (I use these guys a lot), and have added "auxiliary" wires to the cable in various gauges.

The first item linked is too much "moment" on the battery post. That is likely to lead to broken post/battery case and leaking electrolyte.

The second migh look snazzy, but the leads being held with an allen head set screw on stranded cable is a lousy and problem looking for a place (under your hood) to happen.

Unless a lug (round) is properly swaged and then used with that type of terminal, with the clearance very tight, it will provide too much resistance and that will lead to all sort of trouble, from intermittent current, fuses blown, and possible wire fire.

What vehicle? Year, make model.
That will help me look at a possible solution that will "fit OEM" in function and look.

I have done a lot of classic car wiring, building/modifying and repairs as well as motorcycle, aircraft and residential/commercial low and service voltage.

2014 Toyota Tundra with the 5.7L

I also have found these but sure seem to have a whole lot of parts and aren’t very good looking.
https://sdhqoffroad.com/collec...terminal-upgrade-kit

quote:

Originally posted by sigmonkey:
The second migh look snazzy, but the leads being held with an allen head set screw on stranded cable is a lousy and problem looking for a place (under your hood) to happen.

I was quite skeptical of the design when a lot of guys on the RZR forum were suggesting them. I bought a pair and gave it a try. With the size of the wire matched to the terminals and a nearly snug fit with the screw backed off, the final result is pretty dang secure. I experimented with a scrap first. After tightening and then backing off, I removed the wire. The indentation on the strands looked VERY even and nice. I think the matching of wire size right up to the max of the socket is key.

The three accessories you need to power.

Where will they be used, located?

(From your description, I assume in the cabin, but want to be certain of each accessory, and what they are, besides the USB power port for iPhone and Galaxy tablet. I am counting one, the USB charging port)

To answer the other questions. Most vehicles use "ground to complete circuit", meaning the accessory current path is from power to device, then a switch completes the path to ground and makes the circuit.

Other times the switch/relay is powered and that provides power to/through the accessory to ground.

When you fuse, you are protecting the wire, not the accessory, so the closer the fuse is to the beginning of the power source, the more wire is protected.

@MNSIG

I am sure they can be utilized and if best practive is used, they may suffice.

Being from aviation and racing background, I am not compfortable with some items.

That is my "overkill" nature, and my leaning away from them.

But, I realize it is easy for me to "spend" someone else's money and time on such projects.

quote:

Originally posted by Black92LX:
Does anyone have any other terminal suggestions?

I happen to prefer the so-called Mil-spec battery terminals. They stay on the battery with one bolt, and you use the other bolt for connecting your main power and ground cables, as well as any other accessories. With these, you can use already made up cables with ring terminals for everything.
 
I only link to Amazon to show you what they look like. I got mine from either Del City or Waytek, IIRC.
 
Mil-spec battery terminals at Amazon.

quote:

Originally posted by Black92LX:

Also Is my understanding correct that the fuse should be closer to the battery?

I don’t know about automotive, but when adding a new circuit in aircraft, the fuse is required to be at (close to) the power source, so the fuse is normally placed right at the battery.

Monkey or Guppy can probably verify that.

I'm a bit confused. Make up a simple 1 to three adapter with a ring terminal on one end to attach to your existing terminal and three individual wires on the other. Use a simple butt splice multi connector shrink wrap terminal to do it. Add an inline fuse to each (I like these blue sea ones https://www.amazon.com/Blue-Se...i%2Caps%2C214&sr=8-3) and carry on. The fuse size for the USB depends on the USB type and version. But assuming its the latest at 2.5A at 5V you need a 1 amp fuse at 12v. if its multiple ports etc. then that has to be adjusted. The location of the fuse doesn't really matter for this with respect to the end equipment but there is no reason to not have it on the very first part of the wiring which protects more of the circuit.

quote:

Originally posted by sigmonkey:
The three accessories you need to power.

Where will they be used, located?

(From your description, I assume in the cabin, but want to be certain of each accessory, and what they are, besides the USB power port for iPhone and Galaxy tablet. I am counting one, the USB charging port)

To answer the other questions. Most vehicles use "ground to complete circuit", meaning the accessory current path is from power to device, then a switch completes the path to ground and makes the circuit.

Other times the switch/relay is powered and that provides power to/through the accessory to ground.

When you fuse, you are protecting the wire, not the accessory, so the closer the fuse is to the beginning of the power source, the more wire is protected.

@MNSIG

I am sure they can be utilized and if best practive is used, they may suffice.

Being from aviation and racing background, I am not compfortable with some items.

That is my "overkill" nature, and my leaning away from them.

But, I realize it is easy for me to "spend" someone else's money and time on such projects.

The USB port will come up through the dash behind my radio.

The 2nd (already wired to the battery) is an aftermarket window control module so I can roll my windows up and down with the remote.
This module is in the drivers door, the power wire goes through the door to the cab through the firewall to the battery.

The third will be a power port in the bed.

For the terminals they definitely need to be stout and withstand jolts and vibration as the truck goes Offroad.

quote:

Originally posted by hrcjon:
I'm a bit confused. Make up a simple 1 to three adapter with a ring terminal on one end to attach to your existing terminal and three individual wires on the other. Use a simple butt splice multi connector shrink wrap terminal to do it. Add an inline fuse to each (I like these blue sea ones https://www.amazon.com/Blue-Se...i%2Caps%2C214&sr=8-3) and carry on. The fuse size for the USB depends on the USB type and version. But assuming its the latest at 2.5A at 5V you need a 1 amp fuse at 12v. if its multiple ports etc. then that has to be adjusted. The location of the fuse doesn't really matter for this with respect to the end equipment but there is no reason to not have it on the very first part of the wiring which protects more of the circuit.

Happen to have an example of the 3 to 1 ring terminal. Like I said this stuff is not my wheel house and have no real clue where to look.

OK. Thanks.

Let me monkey around with things for a bit.

Just do a search for Heat Shrink Step-Down Multi-Wire Connectors. I can give you a specific product if you can tell me the gauge of the wires needed. I use the ancor ones (example https://www.ancorproducts.com/en/320203). But what you need will be totally driven by the wire sizes. Most of the 2:1 ones can do 3:1 with different gauges. Or you can simply stagger them if you can't easily find the exact connector you need. Excluding running the wire from the battery to where you need it this is literally a 10 minute project. Ring terminal of the right size to wire to multi connector to wires to fuse inline per wire.

You want the fuses as close to the battery as possible. A wire that shorts before the fuse is going to heat up and melt, possibly causing a fire.

I like these a lot, and they meet your needs.

Negative - http://www.knukonceptz.com/mob...ve-battery-terminal/

Positive - http://www.knukonceptz.com/mob...ve-battery-terminal/

Check with a commercial truck parts dealer or an emergency vehicle upfitter and see if they have any recommendations?

You can also run 1 cable (other than the starter cable and properly sized) to a terminal block and connect the other wires to the terminal block.

Why are you running strait to the battery for small loads in the cab? A USB port is going to draw <5A, probably more like 3max, the wondow module probably less (assuming it controls, not powers). There's plenty of good spots on the lower left of the dash fuse block you can pull power for both.

I'll pull the PDB drawing tomorrow & give you circuits with headroom if you want to go that route. Don't poke a hole in the firewall for <10A.

Would highly advise that with any added power cables have a suitable fuses be placed in line as close to the battery as possible. That way if the fuses is tripped only several inches of "Hot power" line is not running all around under the hood /thru the firewall /and all under dashboard. Do not ask me how I know this. Been there /done it / got the tee shirt. ................................. drill sgt.

quote:

Originally posted by bigdeal:
I like these a lot, and they meet your needs.

Negative - http://www.knukonceptz.com/mob...ve-battery-terminal/

Positive - http://www.knukonceptz.com/mob...ve-battery-terminal/

Knuconcepts stuff was top-notch 15yrs ago when I was doing car audio stuff.
Something like this is nice when you need a large wire added, just make sure the stock batt cable can be twisted/lifted into position.