FINAL UPDATE: New truck day (yesterday); GMC 3500 AT4 6.6 gasser with the 10 speed transmission, crew cab standard bed. We picked it up yesterday and drove it home. The 10 speed was very seamless even driving through a mountain pass. None of my local dealers were helpful, so I bought it at a small dealer, in a rural town, about 130 miles away. They were great to work with.

The last vehicle I bought to drive was in 2007 and I needed something better to pull our travel trailer.

I forgot to take a picture at the dealer so here is one at a truck stop on the way home.






UPDATE #1: I ended up ordering a GMC 3500 AT4. My cousin uses GMs on his farm and likes a small rural dealer near his farm so he introduced me to their sales manager and we worked out a deal (a few thousand below MSRP which I think was more to keep my cousin happy and coming back). I seriously considered the Ford 7.3 but all the local dealers were dismissive of me wanting to order a 7.3 or even drive one it was all PowerStroke or buy a F-150. The local GM dealer was much better to work with so if I do have maintenance issues, and don’t want to drive 100 miles to the dealer I am buying from, I feel better with this shop for warranty work. There is also a big dealer about 20 miles away I can use too.

We had a serious down payment and plan on paying it off early anyway, but I seriously wonder how everyone is affording the GMC Denali Duramax trucks I see everywhere as they are pushing 100k or more.

The last time Mrs. BB61 and I bought a car was in 2011. We buy our cars, maintain them and drive them for a long time. My current Tacoma is 17 years old and is pushing 225,000 miles. My kids will drive it now as it still runs perfectly fine. We hope to drive this one for a long time too.

Anyway, here is a picture from GMC that is the exact color and model I ordered.




Long story short, my father’s Duramax diesel I have used for towing our travel trailer is no longer available. As such, I am looking for a new tow vehicle.

First, I am not looking for a diesel. I won’t be able to park it inside and my commute is only two miles each way. Thus, even the dealers I have talked to have suggested I not buy one.


My travel trailer weighs, if fully loaded with water, sewer, gear, etc., nearly 8,000 lbs. I’ve thrown it on a CAT scale and confirmed the load which is also its max capability.

My problem is this, I can read all the tow ratings, but I live in the Rocky Mountains. My experience is that the ratings really only make sense at sea level or at best on the interstate when you don’t have mountain passes (thinking Colorado and the Eisenhower tunnel). The typical elevations I am towing at are from 5000’-8500’ above sea level in Ashton National Forest, the Grand Tetons, Yellowstone, and Bear Lake Idaho. Our most common hard tows would be from Ashton Idaho to Island Park, Salt Lake City to Park City over Soldier Summit, From Logan, Utah through Logan Canyon to Bear Lake down to Garden City, Utah through a very steep and long road that has routinely seen semi-trucks loose their brakes. Because I’ve used a diesel exclusively, I’m really at a loss for how gas engines would perform.


In short, my concerns are having the power to make it over the passes and have safe braking power. I will keep the vehicle for a long time so reliability is also a concern. I don’t have to go fast up a hill but I don’t want to have to be in 1st gear going 5 mph hoping I’ll make it over the pass. With all that in mind, I’ve been considering the following but am open to suggestions:

Ford F-250 with the 7.3 “Godzilla” engine
Chevrolet Silverado HD 2500 with their 6.6 engine
Toyota Tundra (which is a 1/2 ton unlike the others) with their iMax hybrid engine.

All vehicle will need to be 4x4 and have the 6’ beds with double cables (four real doors). The Tundra has the lowest tow capacity in that configuration at roughly 10,000 lbs and I wonder if that is enough with the weight I’m towing? The Tundra does come with airbags in the bed so you don’t sag and I have a nice equalizer hitch as well.

That being said, thoughts, suggestions, would be greatly appreciated.

This message has been edited. Last edited by: BB61,

My vote would be Ford super duty all the way. The 6.8 would do it just fine. The 7.3 better but might not be worth a significant premium if there is one.

As you are doing your research, keep in mind that you need to look at more than the tow capacity of the truck you are looking at. GVWR gives you a better idea of the capacity of the truck than does the published tow rating. On a lot of rigs, you will exceed GVWR long before you reach the max tow rating. Especially loaded with all the camping/traveling essentials. Of course, you will always hear from the guys that overload their trucks all the time, with no issues...

In fact, I believe most newer gas HD trucks have a higher GVWR than their diesel counterparts, just do the weight of the diesel engine.

Pulling 8000 lbs is within capacity of modern light duty trucks, but with the amount of towing you are doing, I'd just stick with a 2500 series truck, as it will be a better experience all around.

I went from a gas 2500HD to a diesel 2500HD, towing a 5th wheel all over the country and yea, loved the power of the diesel, but hate the modern emissions, DEF, cost, low mileage, and all that.

When I'm done with my Duramax, I'll more than likely go back to gas.

The Ford 7.3 has some impressive reviews, over the GM 6.6. I'm a GM guy, but I'll take a serious look at the 7.3 when it is time. Tundra isn't even in the equation.

The 8000 lbs is not a lot of weight for the 3/4 ton pickups. The gas mileage will be terrible and the power will suffer noticeably at altitude. I do believe the 1/2 ton would be a bad choice for towing grades and passes due to lighter weight truck, typically not geared for towing, and less capable brakes.

One ton dually, 8 ft. Cargo bed.

There are two dozen camper towing forums, half of them deal with your exact question.

Some mechanics chimed in , some full timers shared ,
Some had horror stories


Some anti 4x4, some pro.

Some manual , some Automatic trans. Fans

I do like some of the towing threads because of the misconceptions some people have about weight. 8,000 pounds is not a lot of weight, by any stretch, when it comes to towing with a full size pick up.

You don't need a diesel, and you don't need dual wheels.

Looking at just the Ford as your first example, the truck is rated at 5,000 pounds on your front axle, and 6,340 on the rear. With a curb weight of roughly 6,500 pounds, that gives you 5,000 pounds of carrying capacity (cargo, hitch weight, fuel, passengers, etc). Tow capacity is 17,200 pounds.

In essence, it's twice the truck you need, although in the F-150 range you're darn near maxing out the abilities. In this event it's better to have and not need than to need and not have, especially when dealing with hills. Very common around here to see 3/4 ton trucks running around with skidsteers being trailered behind them. Roughly 14,000 pounds worth with trailer calculated in.

Something else to consider is that a 3/4 ton truck will have a heavier frame and bigger brakes than a half ton.

I have a F-350 SRW truck that I use to haul heavy things around. It’s very similar to the 3/4 ton except for an additional overload spring in the rear.

Get the F-250 and don’t look back!

quote:

Originally posted by smlsig:
Something else to consider is that a 3/4 ton truck will have a heavier frame and bigger brakes than a half ton.

This. Brakes are pretty important when you're towing on flat ground. It sounds like you're going to be in mountainous conditions almost exclusively. You need the biggest brake package you can get. That means you should eliminate all the half ton options and be looking at 3/4 or 1- ton options only.

None of those pickup’s brakes are designed to stop the truck and an 8,000lb trailer. The trailer’s brakes are for stopping the trailer and the truck’s brakes are for stopping the truck. Make sure your trailer’s brakes are functioning properly and you have the truck’s trailer brake controller set correctly. The key to safe braking downhill is to shift the transmission to a lower gear using the engine to keep the truck and trailer’s speed in check. If you are coasting downhill and gaining speed, you need to be in a lower gear.

Each manufacturer establishes its vehicles tow ratings based on SAE J2807 which includes towing up 6% grade for over 12 miles, but the peak is only 3,600’. I don’t believe the standard includes tests at higher elevations.

Here’s a test a couple of guys did using the Godzilla motor on an 8 mile 7% grade up to 11,000’ towing a 16,000lb gooseneck horse trailer: Link. They also tested a GMC gas truck the same way on a different occasion.

I had a Ram 2500 4x4 diesel pulling a Solitude 5th wheel when I lived in Colorado. A gas version would be fine. A 4x4 in Colorado is must especially if you go off site someplace. The trailer relies on its own brakes so that shouldn’t be a problem. I used to travel with the water tanks only 1/4 filled to reduce weight and fill up near your destination. Careful with older GMs they had transmission module failures which GM did nothing for its customers. My friends truck sat for a year until ATS in Denver found a solution.

I agree that diesels and dually are not mandatory for seasoned very experienced drivers with much better than average driving/ towing skills.


It's the tool between the ears that makes the biggest difference.

My neighbor hauls his $80,000.00 camper up to his camp spot and home, about 180 mile, round trip. And that's it. In nine years he's damaged his trailer 7 times.

Definitely not 1/2 ton territory on the hills. Any 3/4 and up should get it done. It’s 50% more truck controlling the load with plenty of gears to get you over the hill.

An auto/AWD option is nice to have when getting the load moving on damp roads.

Hopefully your trailer has good electric brakes and the truck hopefully has the brake controller. I would guess your trailer already has all the stability hardware.

I pull 9k with a half ton on flat ground, low speeds and only a few miles. No way would I want to move that on mountain roads although the brakes are quite good.

quote:

An auto/AWD option is nice to have when getting the load moving on damp roads.

Do 3/4 and 1 tons have an AWD option? Ford did not when I bought mine. I’ve never used or needed 4wd on pavement no matter how hard it was raining with 18,000 to 23,500lbs of truck and trailer. Even empty on gravel you can hear and feel the truck binding when turning.

I’ve had to use 4wd maybe six times on wet grass where I store my 5th wheel and a few campgrounds. It’s good to have at the boat ramp as well.

Not that I’d be towing in the snow, but I’d have 4wd if I lived where it snowed.

quote:

Originally posted by trapper189:

quote:

An auto/AWD option is nice to have when getting the load moving on damp roads.

Do 3/4 and 1 tons have an AWD option? Ford did not when I bought mine. I’ve never used or needed 4wd on pavement no matter how hard it was raining with 18,000 to 23,500lbs of truck and trailer. Even empty on gravel you can hear and feel the truck binding when turning.

I’ve had to use 4wd maybe six times on wet grass where I store my 5th wheel and a few campgrounds. It’s good to have at the boat ramp as well.

Not that I’d be towing in the snow, but I’d have 4wd if I lived where it snowed.

I know some Silverado 2500HD trucks do now. My towing involves boats and ramps so I could get away with just 4WD in that scenario. I have broken the rears loose on normal roads towing heavy in my 1/2 ton.

The F150 Hybrid is rated to tow 12000Lbs if you want to consider that.

Silverado/Sierra with the 6.6 gas and the Allison 10 speed transmission, standard bed is 6'8"


You can get the 1500 with the 6.2 V8 and "max towing" that will handle I believe 12000 lbs but why? 2500 is the way

quote:

Originally posted by hooch:
The F150 Hybrid is rated to tow 12000Lbs if you want to consider that.

But is that the single cab stock XL with no cup holders and the ashtray still standard?

They do the numbers like that.

i have a 2020 F150 King Ranch with the full blown tow package, 3.5l and the gas mileage is pitiful when towing my 21 ft Tidewater. My Ram 2500 Cummins did better gas mileage. I would stick with a 2500..

Transmissions, suspension, axles and brakes are much more of a concern when routinely towing heavy trailers than the power of the engines you list. Also tires. A ½-ton may only come with Load Range B (the old 4-ply rating), C at the most. You really want load range D or even E.

This message has been edited. Last edited by: egregore,

Excellent advice. Thank you. I was talking with a friend at church today and his brother might be selling his F350 with less than 10k miles and the 7.3 Godzilla engine. A one ton is more then I need but if I can get a good deal, extra capacity is never bad.

I'll let you all know what happens.