My detached garage is already sheetrocked on the walls and ceiling, but with storage trusses above, cracks are a constant issue. The centers of the trusses simply flex too much when walking up there to keep mud/tape on the joints.

I want to leave the sheetrock and cover it with something. A few sites I've looked at used solid vinyl soffit (12" x 12'). My plan is to run two H-channels front to back where the seams will be. The soffit would be screwed through the drywall up into the bottom of the trusses every 24".

Does this seem like a viable plan, or is there a better way?

Thanks!

I used this stuff on the ceiling of my detached garage:

https://www.certainteed.com/si...cts/beaded-triple-2/

Easy install and it's held up well for fifteen years. Clean is every year with a swiffer and it look great.

I might be inclined to use this: Browse Surface Mount Ceiling Tiles (Armstrong)

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I actually looked at those, but the material is really soft. The corners break with just normal handling.

Soffit seems like it'd work, or what about vinyl bead board?

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Vinyl beadboard would be great, but is about 3x as expensive. This will be close to 1,000 Sq Ft

quote:

Originally posted by MNSIG:

Vinyl beadboard would be great, but is about 3x as expensive. This will be close to 1,000 Sq Ft

OK.

Not sure how much it costs, probably more as well, but I've seen white metal rib roofing used on ceilings.

quote:

Originally posted by ridewv:

quote:

Originally posted by MNSIG:

Vinyl beadboard would be great, but is about 3x as expensive. This will be close to 1,000 Sq Ft

OK.

Not sure how much it costs, probably more as well, but I've seen white metal rib roofing used on ceilings.

Metal dura panel is what you're referring to. I'm considering it for pole barn ceiling.

https://www.menards.com/main/b.../p-1444448673649.htm

I don't see why you couldn't use soffit for your application. Can you buy it long enough to cover the entire width (or length) of the garage so you don't have to deal with overlaying the end seams? Not sure how that would look if you have to overlay those.

quote:

Originally posted by ubelongoutside:

Metal dura panel is what you're referring to. I'm considering it for pole barn ceiling.

Yes that's it.

quote:

Originally posted by bigdeal:Can you buy it long enough to cover the entire width (or length) of the garage so you don't have to deal with overlaying the end seams? Not sure how that would look if you have to overlay those.

Not locally. The longest is 12 feet, so it will take 3 pieces. That's where the H-channel comes in.

quote:

Originally posted by MNSIG:
My detached garage is already sheetrocked on the walls and ceiling, but with storage trusses above, cracks are a constant issue. The centers of the trusses simply flex too much when walking up there to keep mud/tape on the joints.

I want to leave the sheetrock and cover it with something. A few sites I've looked at used solid vinyl soffit (12" x 12'). My plan is to run two H-channels front to back where the seams will be. The soffit would be screwed through the drywall up into the bottom of the trusses every 24".

Does this seem like a viable plan, or is there a better way?

Thanks!

Yes, that will work just fine for a detached garage.
The question I have is why is there so much flex in the first place? Do you actually have light attic storage trusses or actual room trusses. The former usually has a 2x6 bottom chord and the latter a 2x10 bottom chord.
If they have 2x10 bottom chords the best way to eliminate flex (if you can get to it) is to sister another 2x10 to it on where the center of the sistered joist is at the gang plate of the bottom chord. That is the point where the flex is most likely occurring.

You see it used under porches, carports and garages around here a lot.

I hesitate to mention this because it probably would not be an issue but you sound like you might be pretty picky about the look of it... I might be a little worried about the 24 OC mounting and potential sagging longterm, especially if it gets pretty warm in the garage in summer. Sagging might be reduced by not buying the thinest / cheapest product or even better by stripping the ceiling with 1 x 2 furring strips 12 or 16 inch OC first. A little more work but not a big cost increase. Vinyl with narrower "planks" would resist sagging better as well, think more ribs closer together vs the wider ones.

Just make sure you hang it loosely and allow room for expansion (or contraction if hung when very warm) at the fasteners and end joints. I have seen it get really ugly if hung too tightly and can't move with temperature changes.

quote:

Originally posted by smlsig:
The question I have is why is there so much flex in the first place? Do you actually have light attic storage trusses or actual room trusses. The former usually has a 2x6 bottom chord and the latter a 2x10 bottom chord.
If they have 2x10 bottom chords the best way to eliminate flex (if you can get to it) is to sister another 2x10 to it on where the center of the sistered joist is at the gang plate of the bottom chord. That is the point where the flex is most likely occurring.

I don't think there is actually very much flex, but it doesn't take much to crack open a mud joint. They are attic storage trusses. 2x6 bottom chord. The garage is 20 years old and not a bit of sag to the roof or ceiling. It's just enough to pop the joints when you walk across the center.

I have 5/8" drywall on 24" center trusses in my garage ceiling as well and I never walk above and my joints crack as a result of not heating my garage.

What do you guys think of using a collated screw gun vs nailer for fasteners?

It will go up basically like siding with the heads left slightly high for expansion. My only concern is finding a screw/nail gun with a tip that is small enough to align the fasteners with the slots in the vinyl.

couldnt you just put down plywood in the open area above the garage and that will keep the rafters from moving?

or is it the weight of a human walking on the rafters pushing downward that you are worried about, creating cracks on the sheetrock below

quote:

Originally posted by MikeinNC:
couldnt you just put down plywood in the open area above the garage and that will keep the rafters from moving?

It's already decked with 3/4" plywood that has been there since construction. The trusses span 30' so I don't think it's realistic to expect zero flex at the center when walking on the deck.

ahhh, couldn't you pull the plywood and sister up some wider boards than the 2x4 that is there-essentially sistering a 2x6 across the rafter's bottom run and then re-install the plywood. That should keep it from flexing downward

^^^^^
The bottom chord on the trusses is already 2x6. Pulling all the decking, insulation, sistering and putting it back together and still having to tape/mud/paint may be as much work as alternative ceiling material.