With my F150 parked with everything off (except hood raised), I have a 1.6 Amp parasitic draw. I THINK that's too much over a normal draw for this vehicle at rest (for a while). Do you agree ? If so, it sounds like I should buy a fuse puller and start pulling fuses to try to find the circuit(s) responsible. I've always been decent with normal mechanical maintenance, but electrical stuff like this type of problem is all new to me.

So, am I barking up the right tree ? So far this is what I'm seeing in the youtube universe.

Also, about 6 mos ago my Mechanic shop suggested an official Ford provided "fuse jumper kit", to ameliorate a possible problem with fuses known to blow in the fuel pump circuit during normal operation, leaving owners of this year/model truck stuck on the highway with disabled fuel flow. Do you think THIS could have something to do with it, IF it was installed improperly, IF it was even possible to do so ?

Any and all advice MUCH appreciated. FWIW, I'm enjoying learning this stuff, even though I don't know if I've had this problem draw since the day I bought it from a private owner, or if it's something new that popped up since I've owned it. The battery at rest is 12.3 volts and it doesn't look too old, which is why I started youtubing this stuff to learn-n-fix as I go.

Is there a lamp under the hood which activates when the hood is opened?

Way too much draw. Check the relay for your AC compressor. With everything off, just give it a few taps. If you hear the compressor clutch chatter, replace the relay. Supposedly it's not unheard of in Ford trucks from the early 2000s. My brother was having his battery go flat in his 2002 Ranger he used to have and after some quality time with Google I discovered that and it ended up being the issue.

One side note though- some vehicles take time for all the electronics to go to "sleep". Your 2010 may act like this too. If it's still 1.6 amps after like an hour, then I'd say you got something that's acting up.

When I was in the business, we looked for 50 milliamps or less.
Sometimes it would take a minute or two for all the electronics to go into slee mode.

Also make sure the fuse in your ammeter isn't blown.

I have had meters appear to show a reading even with a blown fuse.

While there's a wealth of knowledge here you might get more info on an F150 forum. I've had success with several model or manufacturer specific forums.

quote:

Originally posted by Patrick-SP2022:

Sometimes it would take a minute or two for all the electronics to go into slee[p] mode.

This is good advice.

Isn't there a fuse puller under the panel where the fuses are? Seems to me there was on my F250.

To answer the questions about things going asleep, yes, this is after the truck electronics have had plenty of time to go to sleep.

quote:

...I have a 1.6 Amp parasitic draw.

May I ask how you determined that value, Sir?

The wife's Cutlass would drain the battery overnight. I would pull the cable and sparks would fly it was pulling so much.

It was the oil pressure sending unit.

Her dad said the same thing happens on John Deere tractors.

And just to be clear, the problem you are tracking down is a battery that goes dead overnight. Is this correct?

If his is correct, pulling fuses one at a time is the approach I'd use.
It helps to have the location of the fuse and relay panels.
Nothing beats the factory wiring diagram and locator manual for this.

Print version available here. http://www.helminc.com/helm/pr...CS1433210&itemtype=N

Online version available here.
https://www.motorcraftservice.com/Home/Pricing/7

I've used both. For $23 or so, the 3 day online version give you instant information.
The print version is worth having for an avid DIYer.

I had a draw similar to that and it was traced to the GEM. It was located on the back side of the fuse panel. It controlled all sorts of systems. I'd removed the climate control in an effort to stop the A/C compressor draw. That was the final straw.

Took years to finally diagnose that SOB. It started showing its ugly head in the deepest of cold winter. Many missed diagnoses, finally it got to be terrible, and it "did it" at the dealership.

Part was unobtainable as new, got a salvage yard piece for $40, new was something like $350.

This was a '00 model.

quote:

Originally posted by MikeNH:
Way too much draw. Check the relay for your AC compressor. With everything off, just give it a few taps. If you hear the compressor clutch chatter, replace the relay. Supposedly it's not unheard of in Ford trucks from the early 2000s. My brother was having his battery go flat in his 2002 Ranger he used to have and after some quality time with Google I discovered that and it ended up being the issue.

One side note though- some vehicles take time for all the electronics to go to "sleep". Your 2010 may act like this too. If it's still 1.6 amps after like an hour, then I'd say you got something that's acting up.

Had that in a Jeep Liberty, replaced the relay after the battery

Cost of doing you own mechanical work sometimes you save a ton, sometimes you replace the wrong part.

Recommend you pull the fuse for the radio. Seems like a drink got spilled into the dash without my knowledge. Took me forever to find the problem.
Nothing worse than intermittent electrical issues.

On the newer Fords, it can take up to 30+ minutes for the modules to shutdown. A 1.6 amp draw will kill that battery fairly quickly. Is the draw higher when you start testing and gradually go lower?
If it stays the same, there may be a module that refuses to shutdown. I have seen the lighting module do this. There might even be new programs for the different modules that may clear up some issues. Would have to check with a dealer or shop that can check for updates.

I have also seen the a/c compressor clutch relay stay energized. A quick check I do for this is to grab the compressor clutch and try to rotate. If the clutch rotates easily, the relay is not energized.

Do you have a trailer brake controller? If so, make sure it is not energized. Check for any lights or accessories that might be on or plugged into an accessory plug.

You may have to start pulling fuses. I would start with that fuel pump setup first, then the maxi fuses.

quote:

Originally posted by Patrick-SP2022:
When I was in the business, we looked for 50 milliamps or less.
Sometimes it would take a minute or two for all the electronics to go into slee mode.

Also make sure the fuse in your ammeter isn't blown.

I have had meters appear to show a reading even with a blown fuse.

This. I prefer a test light over a multi meter for this. Disconnect the negative off of the battery hook up the wire to the battery post and the test light to the battery cable end. Now, I'd start with removing the jumper and see if that's it. Then start pulling fuses one by one till whichever one you pull makes the test light go out.

quote:

Originally posted by jimmy123x:

quote:

Originally posted by Patrick-SP2022:
When I was in the business, we looked for 50 milliamps or less.
Sometimes it would take a minute or two for all the electronics to go into slee mode.

Also make sure the fuse in your ammeter isn't blown.

I have had meters appear to show a reading even with a blown fuse.

This. I prefer a test light over a multi meter for this. Disconnect the negative off of the battery hook up the wire to the battery post and the test light to the battery cable end. Now, I'd start with removing the jumper and see if that's it. Then start pulling fuses one by one till whichever one you pull makes the test light go out.

Meters are much more precise. I use either a Fluke 88, or to get more precise, I use my Vantage Ultra with a low amp probe. Using the Vantage I don't have to disconnect the negative cable.

quote:

Originally posted by Shifferbrains:

quote:

Originally posted by jimmy123x:

quote:

Originally posted by Patrick-SP2022:
When I was in the business, we looked for 50 milliamps or less.
Sometimes it would take a minute or two for all the electronics to go into slee mode.

Also make sure the fuse in your ammeter isn't blown.

I have had meters appear to show a reading even with a blown fuse.

This. I prefer a test light over a multi meter for this. Disconnect the negative off of the battery hook up the wire to the battery post and the test light to the battery cable end. Now, I'd start with removing the jumper and see if that's it. Then start pulling fuses one by one till whichever one you pull makes the test light go out.

Meters are much more precise. I use either a Fluke 88, or to get more precise, I use my Vantage Ultra with a low amp probe. Using the Vantage I don't have to disconnect the negative cable.

They are more precise, but they also take time to look at the display and most peoples leads aren't long enough on them to move them to where you're working etc. etc. The test light you can watch as you pull each fuse, even the ones inside the truck if you position it right.

Does it have one of them fancy key fobs?
Not sure about '10 but I left my '15 keyfob hanging in the garage next to the car. After a weekend of non-Use it killed the battery. Seems the car and fob were constantly talking to each other.

quote:

Originally posted by jimmy123x:

quote:

Originally posted by Shifferbrains:

quote:

Originally posted by jimmy123x:

quote:

Originally posted by Patrick-SP2022:
When I was in the business, we looked for 50 milliamps or less.
Sometimes it would take a minute or two for all the electronics to go into slee mode.

Also make sure the fuse in your ammeter isn't blown.

I have had meters appear to show a reading even with a blown fuse.

This. I prefer a test light over a multi meter for this. Disconnect the negative off of the battery hook up the wire to the battery post and the test light to the battery cable end. Now, I'd start with removing the jumper and see if that's it. Then start pulling fuses one by one till whichever one you pull makes the test light go out.

Meters are much more precise. I use either a Fluke 88, or to get more precise, I use my Vantage Ultra with a low amp probe. Using the Vantage I don't have to disconnect the negative cable.

They are more precise, but they also take time to look at the display and most peoples leads aren't long enough on them to move them to where you're working etc. etc. The test light you can watch as you pull each fuse, even the ones inside the truck if you position it right.

I keep the meters at the battery. The fuses that matter are usually right by the battery. Even if I removed fuses from under the dash, I can place the meter on the windshield and look at readings through the windshield. Much better all around than a test light.

Besides, how are you going to see the test light when you are on your knees under the dash? You would have to stand up each time to see the light. With the meter on the windshield, I just peek at it through the windshield without moving my position.