In a pinch. I’ve hooked the boxed end of one wrench onto one of the open ends of a wrench that is open on both ends. It’s a little tricky if you also have to do that for the backup wrench, but sometimes you just have to make do with what you have. Good luck.

There should be no need for super high torque on removing these fasteners. They are hydraulic lines and fittings. But as you go about it on Pic 1 you can possibly try the union versus the hose. Hold the 90 with a wrench and try the first nut to the right of it.
on the second you are stuck. But bear in mind that the big expensive part is the cylinder and the hose and fittings are relatively cheap. If I couldn't get the hose off either #1 or #2 at this end I would try the other end. And then ask my hydraulic repair center to disassemble the mess and replace anything that is problematic.

quote:

Originally posted by shiftyvtec:
Top picture: hold the hex farthest to the right steady while backing off the nut just to the left of it.

Bottom picture: Hold the top most hex stationary while backing off the nut below.

Don't do that.

In the upper picture, the angle fitting is what must remain stationary, and a wrench should be on it, to avoid damaging it or breaking it off. The hex fitting directly to the right of the 90 degree angle fitting is what must be unscrewed. Do NOT use a pipe over a wrench or excess torque, as its not required. If you're trying to turn any other flat or fitting, you're trying to turn the wrong part. You're going to break something or twist the hose fitting off.

Do NOT try to turn the hex on the right side of that hose assembly. That hex was used with a hose mandrel to attach the hose fitting itself. It is not meant to be unscrewed without the use of a hose fitting mandrel specific to that part. The fitting you need to unscrew is the fitting that attaches to the angle fitting that's inserted into the actuator. Don't turn anything else. the angle fitting is the cleanest, silver 90 degree fitting that's screwed into the actuator. The first fitting attached to that is what you must remove, to remove the hose.

In the case of the lower picture, the orange part is the actuator, the first fitting directly below it is what you must put a wrench on and hold stationary, and the fitting directly beneath that is what you must undo the remove the hose. Again, you do NOT need a cheater bar or torque on that fitting. You can use a flare nut wrench, but it it is not necessary.

A few drops of penetrating oil won't hurt, but shouldn't be necessary.

The trick to breaking those hose fittings free is the wrench on the stationary fitting directly adjacent to it. You can use two box-end wrenches and arrange them on the fittings so they form a "V" in your hand. Squeeze them together, and the fitting should break free.

If you're using much more force than that, you're trying to move the wrong part.

And just the obvious, make sure the loader is supported and zero pressure on the lines when you turn the nuts.

As a Kubota owner, last two posts are correct, you want to loosen the hex attached to the AN adapters threaded into the hydraulic cylinders. 90 deg top pic, straight with a hex bottom pic.

From the factory my fittings are VERY tight. Almost like they were assembled dry, oil free, and over time slight surface corrosion loctited them in place.

Use good tight fitting wrenches, watch your knuckles, and be safe.

Update. I took the cylinder to my Kubota dealer who ordered the seal kit and where going to install it. A couple hours after dropping it off I got a call. The ram is bent, which took out the seal and scored the cap nut. New ram $700. New cap nut $150. The seal kit is $160. Plus the labor put together all the pieces once in. New cylinder is $1300. I talked with the out of state (Texas) used tractor dealer I purchased the Kubota from and he said fixing the cylinder should be no big deal. Doh, even if I can find someone with the knowledge and means to straighten out the ram I would still be out probably $600 in parts and labor. I am a bit bummed. You guys got any suggestions or words of wisdom. Feel like the $1300 route is my only real option. I was planning for a a $300 job parts and labor.

No used parts available?

I wouldn't attempt to straighten it. I'd find used parts that are straight, hone as required, install the seal kit, and go with that.

quote:

Originally posted by sns3guppy:
No used parts available?

I wouldn't attempt to straighten it. I'd find used parts that are straight, hone as required, install the seal kit, and go with that.

Agreed. Straightening the ram is just kicking the can down the road.

The guy I bought it from said a machine shop with a hydraulic press could straighten out the ram. But again, just a going to be about 70% the cost of a new unit when all is said and done is my estimate. So new is how I am going to have to proceed mot likely unfortunately. The bent ram in not terrible. But you can see the bow in it.