So one of the hydraulic cylinder's has a small leak at the cap end on the front end loader on my new to me Kubota tractor. Not a huge deal. I just need to remove and take to a shop who will rebuild it. A fairly cheap repair.
It has two hoses I need to remove. Take a couple of bolts out. Pound the big pins out and then drain the fluid and I am good.

My question is. When disconnecting the hoses it appears there is a nut to loosen. It is tight as hell. The fitting that screws into the cylinder directly wants to unscrew. I am holding it tight with a separate wrench while trying to break the other nut loose. No dice so far. A bigger wrench. Maybe do it in the am after eating wheaties? Any suggestions?

This message has been edited. Last edited by: old rugged cross,

Your average farmer would hold the cylinder side fitting fast then Smack the wrench on the hose side with a hammer or whatever seems suitable. Or slip a pipe over both wrenches for better mechanical advantage.

Yeah, that. Pipes are your friend. Soak the nuts with PB Blaster first.

They do make open end wrenches that wrap around the fitting you are trying to hold. Kind of like your finger tip bending around something for that little extra grip. This would be the ideal solution.
Next best is wrenches with extended leverage as already suggested.
When doing the extra effort I suggest increasing the pressure very slowly. Sudden jerks tend to break what you don’t want broken.
If the wrench holding the fitting between the cylinder and the hose/nut starts slipping, rounding off the fitting, it might be time for visegrips. You might need a pipe to hold those from turning too.
If none of the above has worked and the fitting is beginning to look a bit ragged, add some heat to the stuck nut. Then things will look like - vise grips on fitting with extension, wrench on nut with extension, propane torch heating stuck nut ONLY, and only a bit of heat on that. Then put the pressure on the nut.
BTW - Kubota make good machines. The seal that is leaking is the rod seal. Having the shop replace it is the right call.

It's not a field repair fitting you're trying to loosen is it?

Always easier to talk about it with a picture in hand.

Thanks guys. I appreciate the help. Expat, I do not know what that is?
sns, I hear you. I just do not have a hosting service for pix. Everytime I think about that. I seems such a pita. Maybe it isn't? I can take a pix though.

A flare nut wrench is what it's called but that may not be the problem.
Can you apply a little heat to the lock nut or whatever you are trying to loosen?|
A picture would help so we can be sure we're talking about the correct technique.

Field repair fitting example.

The long portion of the fitting will not be crimped onto the hose.

I do not think that is what I have. I will check back this afternoon. If someone can post a pix I can email one. Thanks guys.

quote:

Originally posted by old rugged cross:
Thanks guys. I appreciate the help. Expat, I do not know what that is?
sns, I hear you. I just do not have a hosting service for pix. Everytime I think about that. I seems such a pita. Maybe it isn't? I can take a pix though.

IMGUR easy peasy

Put the app on the phone use it to upload images to IMGUR web hosting page, simple.

Go to IMGUR, login to your account on a browser, go to your images, click the image,
when it pops up select the Copy button on Direct Link line.

Go to SF, click the image button on post, click paste into the image box and then OK

quote:

Originally posted by old rugged cross:

I just do not have a hosting service for pix.

PostImage is free, and easy to use.

Did I mention that it's FREE?

Email it to me if you like, I'll post it for you.

grendel532ATyahoo.com

Can you disconnect the other end of the hose? Then bring cylinder with the hose attached to the shop.


.

If you are having difficulty removing the hose at the cylinder, how long is the hose and what is it attached to at the other end? Would it be possible to remove the hose with the cylinder, assuming that it may have a swivel fitting on that end, and take it to the shop for them to deal with? They should be able to handle that. Just a thought.

Pics of the offending part:





.
I presume they are the two ends of the line.



.

Top picture: hold the hex farthest to the right steady while backing off the nut just to the left of it.

Bottom picture: Hold the top most hex stationary while backing off the nut below.

They normally are not very tight.

Make sure to clean the fittings with a wire brush followed by a rinse in solvent before removal... I use odorless mineral spirits as it doesn't harm the paint.

Keep the hose ends and cylinder ports protected from debris.

quote:

Originally posted by reflex/deflex 64:
Your average farmer would hold the cylinder side fitting fast then Smack the wrench on the hose side with a hammer or whatever seems suitable. Or slip a pipe over both wrenches for better mechanical advantage.

Pipe. Aka “cheater bar”.

If you ain’t cheating, you ain’t trying.

Ridiculous leverage it more controllable that “bash it with a BFH” (Big Fancy Hammer), however, the vibration from a sharp rap with a lighter hammer (SFH, or Smaller Fancy Hammer) can sometimes be helpful.

Thanks a ton Pyker.

V-tail, I will look into that.

Think I need to get more leverage. I will take another run at it this weekend.

Thanks guys.

quote:

Originally posted by shiftyvtec:
Top picture: hold the hex farthest to the right steady while backing off the nut just to the left of it.

Bottom picture: Hold the top most hex stationary while backing off the nut below.

They normally are not very tight.

Make sure to clean the fittings with a wire brush followed by a rinse in solvent before removal... I use odorless mineral spirits as it doesn't harm the paint.

Keep the hose ends and cylinder ports protected from debris.

I agree on the bottom fitting.
On the 90 degree NPT/JIC fitting (top picture) hold the flat with a wrench positioned vertically, with your left hand, and the loosen the female fitting attached to it with another wrench in your right hand. As soon as it is loose, the entire hose & fitting should become released from the 90 and the nut you loosened that holds the flared part inside.