SIGforum
Does anybody mill lumber?
February 25, 2018, 10:57 PM
thumperfbcDoes anybody mill lumber?
I have the opportunity to get some walnut logs for free. A local sawyer charges $100 an hour. With free logs that is a good equation for me. Im looking to use the lumber to build a counter and need about 125 board feet.
I was looking at the pile of logs and nearly all show evidence of cracking on the cut ends, to some extent or another. Does that preclude being able to turn it into useable small boards? Honestly for my project I need final boards that are about 1” x 2.5” x 24”. My plan is to have the sawyer cut them into 1.25” boards and I’ll rip and trim from there with my table saw and miter saw.
February 25, 2018, 11:10 PM
XLT125 Board feet is not worth messing with, you will still have to let it air dry for a year Aand you are looking at 750 dollars for 125 bd feet here in Oregon.
the sawyer would probably charge you 1/2 of that to cut it up and you still don't know what your getting until it's cut. Sometimes free lumber really isn't free.
February 26, 2018, 12:58 AM
thumperfbcquote:
Originally posted by XLT:
125 Board feet is not worth messing with, you will still have to let it air dry for a year Aand you are looking at 750 dollars for 125 bd feet here in Oregon.
the sawyer would probably charge you 1/2 of that to cut it up and you still don't know what your getting until it's cut. Sometimes free lumber really isn't free.
Well, he says he can mill several times what I need in 1 hour of paid time. So I might walk away with 400-500 bf of lumber for only $100. Local prices for Walnut would put my 125 by I need at over $1300, I’ve checked. The sawyer is of the opinion that I would get what I need given that I’m not after big boards, especially if he cuts up a full trailer load.... I think it. Isn’t still be worth it... even if it doesn’t work as lumber it’d still make decent firewood and $100 is a good price for that still.
Do those cracks that appear in cut end extend through the entire log, typically? I have pictures but I never found a replacement for the defunct photobucket, as my avatar shows (I tried to remove it, didn’t work).
February 26, 2018, 02:33 AM
OTDquote:
Originally posted by thumperfbc:
Do those cracks that appear in cut end extend through the entire log, typically?
Cracks are typical but the amount depends on species and grain orientation. Either tension from growth or tension differences from the drying process are causing the lumber to crack. There is not much one can do about it but accepting as a loss.
If the logs are cracked already it´s not worth anymore to have it sawn. Such wood is mostly stained already and poluted with insects.
February 26, 2018, 02:47 AM
Hay2baleWalnut is hard to dry without cracks.
But for a $100 investment, and since you only need 24 inch long boards, you can't go wrong.
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Dances with Crabgrass
February 26, 2018, 05:05 AM
MattWSounds as if you’re wanting a butcher block type top? If so, check out Lumber Liquidators. They have 6’x3’ butcher block tops in various types and grades of lumber already assembled. They will need to be sanded and finished appropriately for your needs, but you can cut to your desire. Pricing is $200-$500 if I recall correctly. They usually have one or two in stock, but have samples of others they can get for you in a few days.
February 26, 2018, 06:15 AM
9mmnutCracking is typical, probably only an inch or two. I would jump on that in a heartbeat. Lot of mills have kilns and will dry the boards. If he doesn't have one bet he knows someone who does. Have him trim the edges also. Hope you have a planer. If not you have a good excuse to buy one. Maybe a can plane them for you.
February 26, 2018, 07:17 AM
95flhrI have a neighbor with a mill and does this type of work pretty frequently. I have had him cut a couple of logs for me in the past.
One thing, as stated above is drying it after it's been cut. Take a look at this site, it has some good information on how to do it with minimal issues.
http://www.wood-database.com/w...drying-wood-at-home/
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Retired old fart
February 26, 2018, 07:34 AM
ShouldBFishinquote:
Originally posted by 9mmnut:
Cracking is typical, probably only an inch or two. I would jump on that in a heartbeat. Lot of mills have kilns and will dry the boards. If he doesn't have one bet he knows someone who does. Have him trim the edges also. Hope you have a planer. If not you have a good excuse to buy one. Maybe a can plane them for you.
I agree this would be an excellent reason to purchase a thickness planer. I use mine way more than I ever thought I would.
February 26, 2018, 07:34 AM
RAMIUSThe thinner ones I do always crack. I think its hard to prevent that without a kiln.
I've been using a chainsaw mill and I love it:
Chainsaw MillI've done a bunch of cherry, made shelves and a mantle.
February 26, 2018, 09:26 AM
kent jYou might consider having what you can get free milled then contact a specialty wood supplier and work out a trade for dried lumber. I have a couple guys here that would do that. It will probably be a 3 to 1 trade in their favor but you will get what you need and won't have to deal with drying it.
Regards, Kent j
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February 26, 2018, 09:40 AM
FishOnFree firewood!
February 26, 2018, 11:46 AM
Skull LeaderCan't help with the drying time, but the cracks could be filled with epoxy for an interesting counter. Some folks use colored epoxy and put lights behind it. Use your imagination.
February 26, 2018, 12:00 PM
Chris42Another vote in favor. A dry barn for a place to stack it is what you need once the sawing is done. I would give it at least 2 years of drying time. Stack twice what you think you will need, more if you can. Yes the ends crack, but that is typical and will be lost when trimming.
A neighbor did exactly what you are thinking. Stored in my barn. Our wood was sawn to 1"+ size. We happened to let it sit for more than a few years. When I finally got to use it I found there was a lot with figured grain from nearby limbs. Some absolutely beautiful wood. Not big pieces but many smaller that were exceptional. Truly worth doing and saving.
February 26, 2018, 07:05 PM
henryaz When freshly cut into boards, treat the ends with parafin wax or latex paint. It will help seal the end grain against cracking/splitting.
February 26, 2018, 07:16 PM
rburgDon't underestimate the firewood angle. Its great wood and while it burns fairly fast, the smell is great. I've burned most of the stuff I got, but wish I had a source for more. Its my #1 favorite. I don't know where the 1 hour for $100 came from. It'll take nearly that long to get the saw set up.
I had a friend who was selling off some property and wanted the walnut and ash for building a new house. We spent a few weekends sawing and hauling the logs to a place the guy could get his mill to. I have no idea what the bf was we got, but it was fun doing. He had a warehouse where he stored it for a few years. It all cracks so consider boards longer than you might think you'll need. Just plan on final milling after they've cured. Burn the slabs as firewood.
Unhappy ammo seeker
February 26, 2018, 11:34 PM
thumperfbcI do have a thickness planner. It’s an older craftsman that I need to find blades for and fab up some sort of dust collection funnel. Right now it just spews it out the back and makes a giant mess. I’ll just have to stack it in my garage or maybe the attic... the attic would get real hot in the summer but we are dry pretty much all year.
As far as firewood he’ll let me fill the bed of my f150 for $50 with either walnut or almond that is presplit.