SIGforum.com    Main Page  Hop To Forum Categories  The Lounge    Does anybody mill lumber?
Go
New
Find
Notify
Tools
Reply
  
Does anybody mill lumber? Login/Join 
Team Apathy
posted
I have the opportunity to get some walnut logs for free. A local sawyer charges $100 an hour. With free logs that is a good equation for me. Im looking to use the lumber to build a counter and need about 125 board feet.

I was looking at the pile of logs and nearly all show evidence of cracking on the cut ends, to some extent or another. Does that preclude being able to turn it into useable small boards? Honestly for my project I need final boards that are about 1” x 2.5” x 24”. My plan is to have the sawyer cut them into 1.25” boards and I’ll rip and trim from there with my table saw and miter saw.
 
Posts: 6520 | Location: Modesto, CA | Registered: January 27, 2005Reply With QuoteReport This Post
Quit staring at my wife's Butt
Picture of XLT
posted Hide Post
125 Board feet is not worth messing with, you will still have to let it air dry for a year Aand you are looking at 750 dollars for 125 bd feet here in Oregon.
the sawyer would probably charge you 1/2 of that to cut it up and you still don't know what your getting until it's cut. Sometimes free lumber really isn't free.
 
Posts: 5713 | Registered: February 09, 2003Reply With QuoteReport This Post
Team Apathy
posted Hide Post
quote:
Originally posted by XLT:
125 Board feet is not worth messing with, you will still have to let it air dry for a year Aand you are looking at 750 dollars for 125 bd feet here in Oregon.
the sawyer would probably charge you 1/2 of that to cut it up and you still don't know what your getting until it's cut. Sometimes free lumber really isn't free.


Well, he says he can mill several times what I need in 1 hour of paid time. So I might walk away with 400-500 bf of lumber for only $100. Local prices for Walnut would put my 125 by I need at over $1300, I’ve checked. The sawyer is of the opinion that I would get what I need given that I’m not after big boards, especially if he cuts up a full trailer load.... I think it. Isn’t still be worth it... even if it doesn’t work as lumber it’d still make decent firewood and $100 is a good price for that still.

Do those cracks that appear in cut end extend through the entire log, typically? I have pictures but I never found a replacement for the defunct photobucket, as my avatar shows (I tried to remove it, didn’t work).
 
Posts: 6520 | Location: Modesto, CA | Registered: January 27, 2005Reply With QuoteReport This Post
SIG-Sauer
Anthropologist
posted Hide Post
quote:
Originally posted by thumperfbc:
Do those cracks that appear in cut end extend through the entire log, typically?

Cracks are typical but the amount depends on species and grain orientation. Either tension from growth or tension differences from the drying process are causing the lumber to crack. There is not much one can do about it but accepting as a loss.

If the logs are cracked already it´s not worth anymore to have it sawn. Such wood is mostly stained already and poluted with insects.
 
Posts: 3790 | Location: Switzerland | Registered: January 24, 2001Reply With QuoteReport This Post
Member
posted Hide Post
Walnut is hard to dry without cracks.

But for a $100 investment, and since you only need 24 inch long boards, you can't go wrong.


----------------------------------------------------
Dances with Crabgrass
 
Posts: 2183 | Location: East Virginia | Registered: October 12, 2009Reply With QuoteReport This Post
Member
posted Hide Post
Sounds as if you’re wanting a butcher block type top? If so, check out Lumber Liquidators. They have 6’x3’ butcher block tops in various types and grades of lumber already assembled. They will need to be sanded and finished appropriately for your needs, but you can cut to your desire. Pricing is $200-$500 if I recall correctly. They usually have one or two in stock, but have samples of others they can get for you in a few days.
 
Posts: 2679 | Location: The Low Country | Registered: October 21, 2008Reply With QuoteReport This Post
Member
Picture of 9mmnut
posted Hide Post
Cracking is typical, probably only an inch or two. I would jump on that in a heartbeat. Lot of mills have kilns and will dry the boards. If he doesn't have one bet he knows someone who does. Have him trim the edges also. Hope you have a planer. If not you have a good excuse to buy one. Maybe a can plane them for you.
 
Posts: 1195 | Location: Southern ,Mi. | Registered: October 17, 2011Reply With QuoteReport This Post
Cruising the
Highway to Hell
Picture of 95flhr
posted Hide Post
I have a neighbor with a mill and does this type of work pretty frequently. I have had him cut a couple of logs for me in the past.

One thing, as stated above is drying it after it's been cut. Take a look at this site, it has some good information on how to do it with minimal issues. http://www.wood-database.com/w...drying-wood-at-home/




“Government exists to protect us from each other. Where government has gone beyond its limits is in deciding to protect us from ourselves.”
― Ronald Reagan

Retired old fart
 
Posts: 6546 | Location: Near the Beaverdam in VA | Registered: February 13, 2005Reply With QuoteReport This Post
Member
Picture of ShouldBFishin
posted Hide Post
quote:
Originally posted by 9mmnut:
Cracking is typical, probably only an inch or two. I would jump on that in a heartbeat. Lot of mills have kilns and will dry the boards. If he doesn't have one bet he knows someone who does. Have him trim the edges also. Hope you have a planer. If not you have a good excuse to buy one. Maybe a can plane them for you.


I agree this would be an excellent reason to purchase a thickness planer. I use mine way more than I ever thought I would.
 
Posts: 1829 | Location: MN | Registered: March 29, 2009Reply With QuoteReport This Post
It's not you,
it's me.
Picture of RAMIUS
posted Hide Post
The thinner ones I do always crack. I think its hard to prevent that without a kiln.

I've been using a chainsaw mill and I love it: Chainsaw Mill

I've done a bunch of cherry, made shelves and a mantle.
 
Posts: 7016 | Location: Right outside Philly | Registered: September 08, 2005Reply With QuoteReport This Post
Member
Picture of kent j
posted Hide Post
You might consider having what you can get free milled then contact a specialty wood supplier and work out a trade for dried lumber. I have a couple guys here that would do that. It will probably be a 3 to 1 trade in their favor but you will get what you need and won't have to deal with drying it.


Regards, Kent j

You can learn something from everyone you meet, If nothing else you can learn you don't want to be like them
It's only racist to those who want it to be.
It's a magazine, clips are for potato chips and hair
 
Posts: 294 | Location: Southern Indiana | Registered: December 11, 2010Reply With QuoteReport This Post
186,000 miles per second.
It's the law.




posted Hide Post
Free firewood!
 
Posts: 3285 | Registered: August 19, 2001Reply With QuoteReport This Post
Help! Help!
I'm being repressed!

Picture of Skull Leader
posted Hide Post
Can't help with the drying time, but the cracks could be filled with epoxy for an interesting counter. Some folks use colored epoxy and put lights behind it. Use your imagination.
 
Posts: 11213 | Location: The Magnolia State | Registered: November 20, 2004Reply With QuoteReport This Post
Member
posted Hide Post
Another vote in favor. A dry barn for a place to stack it is what you need once the sawing is done. I would give it at least 2 years of drying time. Stack twice what you think you will need, more if you can. Yes the ends crack, but that is typical and will be lost when trimming.

A neighbor did exactly what you are thinking. Stored in my barn. Our wood was sawn to 1"+ size. We happened to let it sit for more than a few years. When I finally got to use it I found there was a lot with figured grain from nearby limbs. Some absolutely beautiful wood. Not big pieces but many smaller that were exceptional. Truly worth doing and saving.
 
Posts: 2167 | Location: south central Pennsylvania | Registered: November 05, 2008Reply With QuoteReport This Post
member
Picture of henryaz
posted Hide Post
 
When freshly cut into boards, treat the ends with parafin wax or latex paint. It will help seal the end grain against cracking/splitting.
 
 
Posts: 10887 | Location: South Congress AZ | Registered: May 27, 2006Reply With QuoteReport This Post
Non-Miscreant
posted Hide Post
Don't underestimate the firewood angle. Its great wood and while it burns fairly fast, the smell is great. I've burned most of the stuff I got, but wish I had a source for more. Its my #1 favorite. I don't know where the 1 hour for $100 came from. It'll take nearly that long to get the saw set up.

I had a friend who was selling off some property and wanted the walnut and ash for building a new house. We spent a few weekends sawing and hauling the logs to a place the guy could get his mill to. I have no idea what the bf was we got, but it was fun doing. He had a warehouse where he stored it for a few years. It all cracks so consider boards longer than you might think you'll need. Just plan on final milling after they've cured. Burn the slabs as firewood.


Unhappy ammo seeker
 
Posts: 18394 | Location: Kentucky, USA | Registered: February 25, 2001Reply With QuoteReport This Post
Team Apathy
posted Hide Post
I do have a thickness planner. It’s an older craftsman that I need to find blades for and fab up some sort of dust collection funnel. Right now it just spews it out the back and makes a giant mess. I’ll just have to stack it in my garage or maybe the attic... the attic would get real hot in the summer but we are dry pretty much all year.

As far as firewood he’ll let me fill the bed of my f150 for $50 with either walnut or almond that is presplit.
 
Posts: 6520 | Location: Modesto, CA | Registered: January 27, 2005Reply With QuoteReport This Post
  Powered by Social Strata  
 

SIGforum.com    Main Page  Hop To Forum Categories  The Lounge    Does anybody mill lumber?

© SIGforum 2024