quote:

Originally posted by Nickelsig229:
I watch this guys videos all the time. It's therapeutic in a way.

Maybe you can send it to him and he'll do it just so he can video it for youtube. Maybe he'll ask for cost of supplies, or maybe he'll not want to get involved.

It would be cool to have a video of it being resurrected if it has sentimental value.


https://www.youtube.com/channe...G9kJWi1eVxM0QkyqKVJQ

Yeah, I saw that guy. Shot him an email this morning. LOL

I've got the same carpenter's square, after my father passed away, I scooped up his tool boxes. Some were his tools some were from his father. I just cleaned 'em up a bit and use them all the time. Just wipe down the scale aka ruler with Kroil oil, wipe on a rag, repeat several times and it will be good to go. Those old tools were meant to be used. Everytime I use one of the tools, I think of my Dad or Grandad.

I have 4-5 of those.
Buy them when I see them.
While I keep the sliding square attachment on two of them the others are used simply as a metal ruler.
They’re also nice to use on edge to check for flatness on smaller projects... and anvil faces.
They’re $6 to $25 depending on the age, how ornate the center scrolls are and the condition of course.

*****soak it in white vinegar for 24-48hrs****

.

This message has been edited. Last edited by: GrumpyBiker,

 
The first combination square was invented by Laroy S. Starrett in 1877. It was his first in a long line of measuring tools that he gave to the world.

quote:

Originally posted by AllenInWV:
I came across an old square with a bubble level, I assume it's my dad's. I don't really have a need for one, but I kinda dig its looks. Does anyone know a place that restores hand tools like that?

If you mail the ruler down to me I can glass bead blast it for you, we have a bead blast machine in my department at work.

Actually, that is something you could restore in your kitchen. Good advice on products in this thread and it wouldn't take long at all.

I have an old carpenter's square that belonged to my grandfather and it is fairly similar to yours. Mine is probably 80 years old easily. You don't want to make it look like new as you will lose the beauty of it. Just clean her up.

Third vote for Evaporust. And it’s easily kitchen scale. Any plastic or glass container will do. Heck, pvc pipe will be fine. Ruler in a small piece of pipe with capped ends and full of Evaporust and leave in sink for awhile.

Well, I will give the Evaporust a shot. I assume I can just take it all apart and soak it all? Rinse, dry, then maybe a light coat of oil on screw threads, etc.

Not to derail this topic but as an aside. Will
"Evaporust" Work on something like an area of a metal roof or does it have to stay on longer than a spray mist would last?

If you have to treat an are that can not be submerged. Two or three layers of saturated paper towel with clear plastic (saran wrap) to reduce evaporation. You need to make sure the paper towels are making full contact to the surface and wetted thoroughly or you can expect blotchy results.

The product works faster at elevated Temps (ie: 80*F +). Plan on soaking atleast an hour.

I would be leary using it in this application if it is large area. It is bestt to submerge to item in question.

Sigmonkey and Evaporust for the win!

I also heeded the recommendation of Evaporust for a tool restoration project of my own. I have had this beautiful axe head for several years and tried earlier to remove the rust--unsuccessfully. Today, I tried again using Evaporust. I used the method on the label that called for wrapping in a paper towel and keeping it wet with plastic wrap. This is about 2 1/2 hours, and as you can see, it only began to remove the rust. I am a bit disappointed in the fact that the method I tried left behind what looks somewhat like "water spots" on the blade. Next time I'll just submerge the blade, and probably leave it all day.

I have got to try that stuff.

Thanks

quote:

Originally posted by TMats:
Today, I tried again using Evaporust. I used the method on the label that called for wrapping in a paper towel and keeping it wet with plastic wrap. This is about 2 1/2 hours, and as you can see, it only began to remove the rust.

I submerged mine for something like 10 hours. I would suggest you try that.

Oh, and that is a VERY cool axe head!!!

quote:

Originally posted by AllenInWV:
Sigmonkey and Evaporust for the win!

That looks very nice.

quote:

Originally posted by TMats:
I also heeded the recommendation of Evaporust for a tool restoration project of my own. I have had this beautiful axe head for several years and tried earlier to remove the rust--unsuccessfully. Today, I tried again using Evaporust. I used the method on the label that called for wrapping in a paper towel and keeping it wet with plastic wrap. This is about 2 1/2 hours, and as you can see, it only began to remove the rust. I am a bit disappointed in the fact that the method I tried left behind what looks somewhat like "water spots" on the blade. Next time I'll just submerge the blade, and probably leave it all day.

Submerging works best where possible. The ‘spots’ I have observed myself, and I’m not sure the reasons for them. Sometimes I see them, sometims not. A lot of times I’m going further with polishing out, re-coating with something, or just don’t care about the spot.

Also removes blueing from barrels and other parts, for people who are interested in refinishing.

This would work with a painted framers square then, yes?

I have my dads framing square and use it occasionally and I'd like it to be a little cleaner and maybe easier to read. It's got a fairly decent patina, but I don't want to remove the black paint or coating.

This is the result of several days soaking in Evaporust (for up to 10 hours/day), following by wire brushing. Next day, back in the solution, wire brush again. Repeat as necessary.

Obviously, I'm a bit disappointed. The Black Raven image and "True Temper, Kelly Works" lettering must have held moisture making the rust there, deeper than on the rest of the blade. I can probably work on it some more to remove the last remaining rust, but the issue now is deep pitting. Still, it's a beautiful axe head.

My intention is to search the internet for a quality handle, preferably with some figuring of the wood. Mount the head and hang it in my office/music room.

Scroll up a few posts to see the axe head early in the rust removal process.

Any suggestions for making it better?