Looking for a pair with fairly high power. Ocean Navigation, primary use. Are there brands to look at and brands to ignore?
Thanks.

I bought a pair of 7x50 Fujinons with a built in compass for $750, but that was 20 years ago. I’m sure some sort of image stabilized binocular would be better today.

You might want to eloborate on what you mean by ocean navigation. Once you are out there, there’s not much to see.

For examle: Nikon 7x50 Action Extreme Water Proof Porro Prism Binocular with 6.4 Degree Angle of View
x7 magnification 50 mm Objective Diameter Central focus system 17.1 mm eye relief

What does all this mean?

Following.


Thanks for this post.

I was in Lake Erie last week and found myself wanting something more than my 40 year old Bushnell binoculars.

I have become a Ship Watcher.

I can’t imagine using anything but my Steiner Marines.

Here is something about the basics of binocular specifications:

https://www.rei.com/learn/expe...vice/binoculars.html

7×50: 7 is the magnification power. 50 is the size of the objective lenses in millimeters. The larger the objective lenses, the more light-gathering capability. Something about power and lens size is that dividing the size by the power gives the maximum “exit pupil” size. The max size of a dilated human eye pupil is about 7mm, although it can be smaller depending upon various factors. In any case with 7× power, 49/50mm is the maximum size that the human eye can benefit from. 49 ÷ 7 = 7. If the binoculars are 10×50mm for example, the exit pupil would be 50 ÷ 10 = 5. An exit pupil of 5mm would, all else being equal, be dimmer than one of 7mm. Other factors such as glass quality affect what we can actually see under low light conditions, but the power/objective lens size ratio is a first consideration. That’s why “night glasses” tend to be lower power with larger objective lenses.

Binoculars have prisms inside the tubes to change the light path to one’s eye. Porro is one type.

Angle of view is, well, the angle of view through the binoculars. The greater the angle of view, the more can be seen in terms of the angle left and right or up and down.

Eye relief is about how far from the rear lens the eye must be positioned to have full view through the binoculars. More eye relief means that it’s easier to see through them while wearing glasses, for example, or while using something like supplied rubber eye cups.

Central focus means there is a central focusing wheel that adjusts the focus of both tubes; less common these days are individual focus. Some binoculars are advertised as not requiring focus because the visual depth of field goes from a short distance to infinity. The last time I checked, no-focus binoculars were not known for their visual quality.

Added: Unless one has a set of modern image-stabilizing binoculars, the disadvantage of excessively high magnification for maritime use is the constant movement of the boat. But IS units have some good reviews, I believe.

10 power magnification binoculars are more 'jittery' than 7 power binos are...at least for me now that I'm older.

quote:

You might want to eloborate on what you mean by ocean navigation. Once you are out there, there’s not much to see.

^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
That is what the Captain said on the Titanic.

Fuji on 7x50 MTRC! Great binoculars. Allow 95%+ of available light to pass through the optics.
We also have a pair of the Fujinon stabilized binoculars on the boat. Don’t really care for them!

An above poster gave some credit to IS binoc's. About 10 years ago I bought a set of 10x just to try them. I was amazed at how good they were. Then over about 5 or so years the covers just gave up working. No impact on the mechanics, they just looked awful. So maybe 3 years ago I bought a set of 15x IS. Gawd the difference was just outstanding.

I've found that they're battery hogs. They almost require Lithium AA batteries. I don't like changing batteries, especialy when I'm using them. With new batteries they're great.

So what it comes down to is if you want to use 7x binoc's, any brand will do. Once you get up to the 15's, regular one's don't let you see much. If you're old and wobble, regular binoc's just don't work well. With the IS, it becomes rock solid when you push the button. No, I don't know how it works, but it does.

Lay them down with the caps on when not in use.

And most of them don't float

quote:

Originally posted by ZSMICHAEL:

quote:

You might want to eloborate on what you mean by ocean navigation. Once you are out there, there’s not much to see.

i.e. 3-5 miles offshore to ID Land marks
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
That is what the Captain said on the Titanic.

Great Answer! THAT is funny!

As you have no doubt discovered, prices range from disposable to diamond engagement rings.

There are links between price and brand, where a brand chooses to be in a price range.

There are two prism types. One creates a straight-through tubular design. The other has right angles.

There are differences in coatings that are intended to maximize the viewers ability to see objects. Deer in the dimly lit woods, for example, can better be seen with certain coatings on the glass.

Weight and light-transmitting (often called light gathering) are opposing measures. Weighty binoculars require straps that resemble backpack straps. Weighty optics make long term use challenging.

Most experts say that no optic gathers light, it only presents what is available. But, to the brain, the image appears brighter.

The exit pupil of the binocular reaches maximum utility at 4 mm, it is said. Divide the big number by the little number, and see how close that is to 4. People say bigger is better.

For some ocean-going applications, a compass heading can be integrated into the view. I suppose, but don’t know, that if you have marine charts, a protractor, a navigator’s parallel ruler, you might be able to use headings to sighted objects to plot your location on a chart. But, GPS would of course be better.

Steiner claims focus-free viewing. This may be accomplished by a small ‘hole’ in the light path that acts as a simple lens to sharpen the image at whatever range, much like a pinhole camera. I’m not sure, but I do like the Steiner operation. Focusing on moving objects, especially on a moving ocean vessel, would seem to be problematic. I used the typical 8 x 30 Steiner while hunting for that reason.

So I have been looking on FB Marketplace and have these available:
NIKON ACTION EX 7x50 $60
Nikon 14 x 40 StabilEyes Binoculars $550
Nikon Aculon 8x42 a211 $60
Fujinon Techno-Stabiscope $800

Boat people are telling me Nikon. They have cautioned me about going too high-end. So I listed the 2 extremes $ -$$$

But I appreciate the very clear-cut descriptions of interpreting these mystical numbers.

The boat people here are telling you the Fujinon 7x50 FMTRC-SX. The pair I have is version of these from over 20 years ago and have served me well. If he had had a pair of these with their fantastic light transmission abilities, Captain Smith might have seen that iceberg before it was too late.

Anyway, at 3-5 miles offshore for navigation, you want a pair with a compass. This along with a chart allows you to take bearing of known marks and pin point where you are. With two bearings from known marks, you draw those lines on the chart and where they intersect is where you are. You can get a close approximation with one bearing and a reading from your depth sounder as well. Draw the line of that bearing in your chart through the known mark and follow that line out to your depth. With the Fujinon’s range finding reticle, you can use a bearing to known mark with a known height to figure out where you are. It requires a little math though.

A lot of navigational aids have lights that will flash in a particular pattern. Again, with your chart and compass equipped binoculars you can use that to figure out where you are. I even bought a battery powered illuminator for the compass on mine. A lot of navigational aids are do not have lights and this is where the Fujinon’s light transmission abilities come into play. They really let you pick out the channel markers.

Weight and a strap are an advantage for binoculars on a boat. Both help you hold them steady and fortunately, at least for navigational purposes, you don’t have to hold them for extended periods. It’s just like using a rifle strap to steady you aim and how a heavier rifle doesn’t seem to move around as much.

Now, if you aren’t using a chart and plotting your position, then you aren’t really navigating, but rather sight seeing. Not that there’s anything wrong with that.

quote:

Originally posted by trapper189:
The boat people here are telling you the Fujinon 7x50 FMTRC-SX. The pair I have is version of these from over 20 years ago and have served me well. If he had had a pair of these with their fantastic light transmission abilities, Captain Smith might have seen that iceberg before it was too late.

Anyway, at 3-5 miles offshore for navigation, you want a pair with a compass. This along with a chart allows you to take bearing of known marks and pin point where you are. With two bearings from known marks, you draw those lines on the chart and where they intersect is where you are. You can get a close approximation with one bearing and a reading from your depth sounder as well. Draw the line of that bearing in your chart through the known mark and follow that line out to your depth. With the Fujinon’s range finding reticle, you can use a bearing to known mark with a known height to figure out where you are. It requires a little math though.

A lot of navigational aids have lights that will flash in a particular pattern. Again, with your chart and compass equipped binoculars you can use that to figure out where you are. I even bought a battery powered illuminator for the compass on mine. A lot of navigational aids are do not have lights and this is where the Fujinon’s light transmission abilities come into play. They really let you pick out the channel markers.

Weight and a strap are an advantage for binoculars on a boat. Both help you hold them steady and fortunately, at least for navigational purposes, you don’t have to hold them for extended periods. It’s just like using a rifle strap to steady you aim and how a heavier rifle doesn’t seem to move around as much.

Now, if you aren’t using a chart and plotting your position, then you aren’t really navigating, but rather sight seeing. Not that there’s anything wrong with that.

The deeper the dive, the more complicated, marker spotting is critical as well.

I used the 7x50 Steiner Marine on my boat in NJ for almost 20 years. They're all I can recommend.

^^^^What Trapper said above.
I am boat people and I’m telling you Fujinon. I have the same ones he has with the compass. They are good enough to spot longline sticks on a dark night as I found out headed to Nantucket from Atlantic City years ago.
The first year I went up there I didn’t have them. My owner had Steiners. I ordered my Fujinons. When they were delivered he asked what that was and I told him. He said his Steiners were the best. I told him to wait until late that night.
Then later that evening we went out on deck with the Steiners and the Fujinons. He would look out at the mooring field with each one several times, each time spending more time with the Fujinon. Finally he asked what they cost. I told him and he said to order a pair, no, order 2 pairs. We gave one of them to the dock master at Nantucket Boat Basin. He wouldn’t take tips but he accepted those for the office.

I was using mine just last night on a boat ride.
As I said before, we also have the stabilized Fujinons on the boat but I always use mine. Just don’t care for the stabilized.
I got mine in 1988.
The only issue I had with my Fujinons is I had to replace the lens covers a few years ago. And a guest dropped them on the deck once and pushed the compass into the body a little bit but it is still readable. I don’t let anyone use my binoculars anymore except the boss if he asks and my wife when she helps me take the boat across the Gulf at night.

Fujinon is the way to go!