So, I bought a Predator (Harbor Freight Special) 2000 watt generator. Strictly for running my refrigerators in an emergency.

Generator produces 1600 watts continuous max load, 2000 watts peak. My biggest fridge pulls 960 watts (8 amp power draw on the label), and hopefully 2000 watts of peak power is enough to get the compressor motor going.

So, I'm going to buy a 50ft extension cord. 3 wire, 12 gauge rated at 15 amps unless someone has a super duper compelling reason why I would would need a 10 gauge cord. Quick internet search says that a 10A draw on a 12 gauge wire yields only a 2.6% voltage loss over 50 ft.

The next question is, the manual says "always ground the generator in compliance with local code" or whatever. I read that as legalese: "If local code requires this generator be grounded, then we are instructing you to do so as to avoid liability." I think OSHA allows portable generators to run power tools and appliances so long as it's all on a cord directly attached to the generator--if the generator is going through a transfer switch to a house, it's gotta be grounded as per OSHA (I think). It's got a lug on the front that you can use with a grounding wire if necessary. Who here actually drives a copper rod into the ground to Ground their generator?

Next, is a surge protector between generator and fridge advisable? Will a surge protector even work if the generator isn't grounded with a rod into the ground?

I've also read that many RV folks with fancy electronic control modules for their power need a dummy plug to "bond" their neutral to ground internally to get past the RV's ground fault safeties. Is this necessary for a fridge? Does bonding the neutral to ground internally provide any additional safety?

Lastly, if I indeed wanted to properly ground the generator using it's grounding lug for added safety (I'm a stickler for safety), can I just take an extension cord, cut off the hot and neutral prongs (leaving only the grounding prong), and then plug this into an outlet to use the house's ground? I guess for the rare emergency use, I could also just keep a grounding rod and copper wire on hand and drive it into my backyard lawn for the day or so that generator needs to live out there.

Thanks in advance for all of the knowledgeable responses and even the not so knowledgeable ones =).

quote:

Originally posted by Aeteocles:Who here actually drives a copper rod into the ground to Ground their generator?

I did.

quote:

Originally posted by MNSIG:

quote:

Originally posted by Aeteocles:Who here actually drives a copper rod into the ground to Ground their generator?

I did.

Yeah, I just did some further research, and Home Depot has copper bonded rods available for a reasonable price (50% less than shipped from Amazon). I might just keep the rod handy and drive it into the lawn when I need it.

I just run a ground line to the grounding stake for my house, done.

quote:

Originally posted by wreckdiver:
I just run a ground line to the grounding stake for my house, done.

Is there a max length to the ground line? I think I'd need like 100-150ft of copper wire to get to the grounding stake for the house.

Edit: nevermind: cheaper to just buy a grounding rod than to buy 150 ft of copper wire.

I would drive a rod and use a spring clamp to ground the generator when using it for your intended purpose.

I have mine grounded to the house, but I use a 240 plug with the proper wiring.

I would NOT use the ground from the other outlet to an outlet in the house. You are grounding the appliance to the generator, and the generator to the ground. In your scenario, you are grounding the equipment to the generator, and the generator to the house, and using the house's path to ground.
It's just not the shortest path at that point.

Now, when I'm using a generator at a job site, I don't ground it. But I'm using simple power tools, not an appliance in my house.

This isn't the answer you are looking for, but I would always recommend installing an outlet interlock/subpanel/manual transfer switch type of set up for a generator. For a couple of reasons, one you are then using your house grounding still, two it gives you flexibility so you can choose from multiple circuits to power, instead of just running a cord to the individual item(s).

Also I thought you were having a powerwall installed?

This is not a code response. But I have literally run tens of thousands of hours of generator time on appliances and tools without trying to manage the ground of the generator independently. And as far as I can see OSHA and the NEC say if you are not connecting it to your house and the generator frame is bonded you are not required to do a different ground.

This is another not directly related to your question... Have you considered a “hard start” kit on your refrigerator so to won’t draw so much power at start up? I have them on my central h/a compressors and they seem to make a difference - the house lights had a noticeable momentary dim before when they came on, now I can barely tell. These are new units that did not come with them so I had the HVAC installer put them on. I was thinking of doing the same for the refrigerators so they wouldn’t be so hard on a small generator (I have a Honda 2000).

quote:

Originally posted by Skins2881:
This isn't the answer you are looking for, but I would always recommend installing an outlet interlock/subpanel/manual transfer switch type of set up for a generator. For a couple of reasons, one you are then using your house grounding still, two it gives you flexibility so you can choose from multiple circuits to power, instead of just running a cord to the individual item(s).

Also I thought you were having a powerwall installed?

Negative to the Power Wall. Tesla Solar in the works, but the Power Wall is really effing expensive.

An interlock/transfer switch exceeds the cost/capability of the $425 generator I was willing to buy. I have never needed a generator up to this point, and it's not something I envision using often

I've just got a crap ton of steaks and hand made dumplings to keep frozen

quote:

Originally posted by MNSIG:

quote:

Originally posted by Aeteocles:Who here actually drives a copper rod into the ground to Ground their generator?

I did.

I did this when I put my first SAT dish in on the stockade fence out side of a townhouse I was renting, burying the cable between the fence and the yard. I'm pretty sure I had to break through some rock because it was like Cool Hand Luke out there for a while the last 2 feet or so. I was actually more concerned about liability since I installed it myself.

Honestly I have never heard of someone doing this for a portable generator. I wouldn't.

quote:

Originally posted by gocatgo:
This is another not directly related to your question... Have you considered a “hard start” kit on your refrigerator so to won’t draw so much power at start up? I have them on my central h/a compressors and they seem to make a difference - the house lights had a noticeable momentary dim before when they came on, now I can barely tell. These are new units that did not come with them so I had the HVAC installer put them on. I was thinking of doing the same for the refrigerators so they wouldn’t be so hard on a small generator (I have a Honda 2000).

I sort of did a quick round of internet research on this, and most of the kits I see are designed to replace existing starting capacitors/relays in the fridge in the event of OEM failure. I'm going to guess that this would be unnecessary on my fridge. Also, I don't think a momentary 12 amp draw would be overly taxing on the home circuit or generator designed to handle at least that much continuously.

The hard start kits on my a/c compressors “piggyback” with the OEM ones, and act as an assist. Perhaps the fridge doesn’t draw as much as I was thinking and won’t be a big issue.

I have a transfer switch for my portable generator. When I would use the generator, it seemed to hunt a bit, and my APC power backup battery for my computer didn't like the voltage irregularities.

I bought an 8 foot ground rod, and connected generator to it as the manufacturer recommended.

Power is smooth and APC backup is happy.

We have a transfer switch at the main panel.it cuts off the grid and the generator plus into the house system. No extension cords and enough to power most of the house. When we lost power due to the forest fire I discovered I couldn’t run the AC. Not major but I worried that the AC was broke.
Originally, I was planning on a generator and extension cords to the refrigerator etc. Then I learn it was illegal.As it turns out we’re better off.

I had an old 1/2" copper pipe laying around. I drilled a hole, ran copper wire through it and used that as my grounding rod.

[QUOTE]Originally posted by Skins2881:
This isn't the answer you are looking for, but I would always recommend installing an outlet interlock/subpanel/manual transfer switch type of set up for a generator. For a couple of reasons, one you are then using your house grounding still, two it gives you flexibility so you can choose from multiple circuits to power, instead of just running a cord to the individual items.

This!!! best money spent.

This post is for all those who have said they drove an earth ground for their portable generator. I am speaking directly to generators with loads plugged directly into the outlets on the generator set, not those wired through a transfer switch to a building.

What are you trying to accomplish with the ground rod? Short of protecting the generator itself from a lightning strike, I do not see how an earth ground provides any benefit. Electricity is trying to complete the circuit with its source, which is the generator head. An earth ground helps complete this circuit how? There are no other earth grounds on this circuit save for the one you've added directly beside the generator, so the earth cannot act as a conductor for a fault.

In fact, it seems to me that the earth ground introduces a shock hazard. If there were to be a fault to case at the load, then the earth ground could create a path back to the source through a person. This is because most portable generators are separately-derived systems when using the plugs on them, and they have their frame, control panel, and fuel tank bonded to the generator housing. By grounding the frame to earth, you have now completed the circuit for the poor sap who is holding a tool that has shorted to case.

Am I misunderstanding something here? The frame of the generator is supposed to be bonded and acts as the earth ground. Grounding that bonded frame to earth is a big no-no. It's dangerous in the same way as driving an earth ground in a non-separately derived system is. Can somebody explain to me why you have chosen to drive the ground rod, and how those benefits outweigh the introduced shock hazard?

A $425 generator is good to power incandescent bulbs. You have the potential to fry expensive fixed voltage devices. The newer electronics need a steady 110-120 volts.

quote:

Originally posted by SIGfourme:
A $425 generator is good to power incandescent bulbs. You have the potential to fry expensive fixed voltage devices. The newer electronics need a steady 110-120 volts.

The generator in question is a Predator branded inverter generator. It gets good reviews, and consumer reports rates it comparably to the Honda EU20000 generator that costs twice as much. Harbor Freight has probably sold tens of thousands of these things without any widespread complaints.