I have the exact same Predator for long power outages and for our small camper. I’ve been using the drop cord similar and because it’s an inverter/generator, it’s generally safe even for sensitive electronics, actually preferred. If you have the money to drop on the switch panel and plan to use it I’d say do it and have piece of mind it’s done right. Otherwise, the cord heating up due to faulty connectors or damaged wire are probably your biggest concern. If it’s just for a very rare occasion, I wouldn’t worry much but I also wouldn’t leave it running without being at the house, mainly due to theft risk but also for that odd chance Mr Murphy makes an appearance.

quote:

Originally posted by sigcrazy7:

...Am I misunderstanding something here?...

I don't believe you are and I believe everything else you said is correct. If the generator isn't grounded to earth, the voltage between the generator's hot and earth should be 0.

A house electrical panel has to be grounded to Earth because the Earth is the second leg of the circuit between the power plant and the house.

^^^^^

The grounding rod I have is only for use in conjunction with the transfer panel. I don't use it for plugging directly to the generator outlets.

quote:

Originally posted by MNSIG:
^^^^^

The grounding rod I have is only for use in conjunction with the transfer panel. I don't use it for plugging directly to the generator outlets.

Yes, but the OP stated that he was going to use a cord directly from the generator, not a transfer panel. You told him you earth grounded your generator, without any clarification of your setup. If he were to drive a ground rod, it will create a dangerous configuration.

Also, it’s likely that your generator’s ground is bound to the generator head anyway, so your ground is bound.

Soooo, no grounding rod to earth then? I'm not going to fry myself trying to get a beer from the fridge after an earthquake?

A freestanding portable generator that is not connected to your house wiring will not benefit from an earth ground . The generator frame is it's own " earth " .

 
If you have an SDS Plus rotary hammer or hammer drill, they make a ground rod adapter which makes driving a ground rod very easy.

I don't see any construction guys, oilfield, or any other ppl "grounding their gens.
Just fur a fridge running a couple of days ?

Way over kill being talked about here..
Sheesh ....

Per OSHA:
Grounding Requirements for Portable and Vehicle-mounted Generators

Under the following conditions, OSHA directs (29 CFR 1926.404(f)(3)(i)) that the frame of a portable generator need not be grounded (connected to earth) and that the frame may serve as the ground (in place of the earth):

The generator supplies only equipment mounted on the generator and/or cordand plug-connected equipment through receptacles mounted on the generator, § 1926.404(f)(3)(i)(A), and
The noncurrent-carrying metal parts of equipment (such as the fuel tank, the internal combustion engine, and the generator’s housing) are bonded to the generator frame, and the equipment grounding conductor terminals (of the power receptacles that are a part of [mounted on] the generator) are bonded to the generator frame, § 1926.404(f)(3)(i)(B).

Thus, rather than connect to a grounding electrode system, such as a driven ground rod, the generator’s frame replaces the grounding electrode.

If these conditions do not exist, then a grounding electrode, such as a ground rod, is required.

Hope this helps clarify.

quote:

Originally posted by trapper189:

A house electrical panel has to be grounded to Earth because the Earth is the second leg of the circuit between the power plant and the house.

No, that's not how it works.

There have been some limited Single Wire Ground Return systems installed elsewhere in the world, not for commercial power distribution in the USA.

Generally the shorter and fatter the conductors, the less resistance. If you could get away with a 25’ 12awg extension cord, that would theoretically be better than a 50’ 12awg cord, as would a 50’ 10awg cord and a 25’ 10awg cord better yet.

Leaving theory aside, in the real world the max continuous output of your generator at 120v is 13 1/3amps, well within the 15amp rating of 12awg wire. Sure, the peak output is 16 2/3amp, but what are the chances you can pull that for any length of time without tripping the generator offline?

If you’re only ever going to plug the fridge in, you certainly don’t need more than the cord you’re looking for. If you want the capacity to max out the generator, you still don’t really need more. You can always go with the “bigger is better” argument, but you certainly don’t need to.

When I plumbed a simple mechanical transfer switch between the propane powered backup generator and the solar system and added a weather tight box and cable so I could plug into my arc welder and use it instead of the propane powered Kohler unit, I think all the parts were less than your generator. However in your application the transfer switch would go between the mains supply and your breaker panel. If you have a separate disconnect before the panel and you can put the transfer switch between the disconnect (off and tested dead with a meter) and the panel, no problem. If the disconnect is built into your panel, it probably requires a utility shutoff and a licensed electrician, permit, and sign off of the work before the utility will re-energize. In CA, the permit alone is probably more expensive than the generator, not to mention the electrician. There are disadvantages to being your own power company back in a canyon behind a locked gate, but there are advantages too.

quote:

Originally posted by radioman:

quote:

Originally posted by trapper189:

A house electrical panel has to be grounded to Earth because the Earth is the second leg of the circuit between the power plant and the house.

No, that's not how it works.

There have been some limited Single Wire Ground Return systems installed elsewhere in the world, not for commercial power distribution in the USA.

Was it ever used in the US? I swear my grandfather, a lineman for Detroit Edison for 40 years, told me this. He retired in 1972.

^^^Not that I know of. Look on every power pole you see, you'll see the ground wire for each pole. If that ground loses connection then you can have your house grounding electrode conductor serve as a pathway to ground, but it usually results in 240v things acting weird and one leg getting over 120v and the other below 120v. Also for the transformer to make single phase 240v you need a ground.

quote:

Originally posted by trapper189:

quote:

Originally posted by radioman:

quote:

Originally posted by trapper189:

A house electrical panel has to be grounded to Earth because the Earth is the second leg of the circuit between the power plant and the house.

No, that's not how it works.

There have been some limited Single Wire Ground Return systems installed elsewhere in the world, not for commercial power distribution in the USA.

Was it ever used in the US? I swear my grandfather, a lineman for Detroit Edison for 40 years, told me this. He retired in 1972.

Yes , it has been done in the U.S.