I have a printed circuit board off of the ABS on my 04 BMW R1100S that I am pretty certain is bad. You can’t buy just the ECU from BMW as it is sold as a unit with the ABS manifold and servo motors for a princely sum of $3k. I found a used one on eBay for $1k but that’s a lot of money for a used part. BMW runs the brake light and speedometer through the ABS computer and all the forums say there really is no work around.

Email incoming.

Got it. Thanks

find another car exactly like yours at a used car lot take it for a test drive switch boards and see if yours is truly bad.

quote:

Originally posted by XLT:
find another car exactly like yours at a used car lot take it for a test drive switch boards and see if yours is truly bad.

The R11S is a BMW motorcycle & not a super common one, so finding a cheap one isn't much of an option.

Not sure if the ABS module from another R11 of the era would be compatible.

Try Max Marine in Pompano Beach,FL. They're the go to place to fix MAN electronic circuit boards and such for MAN diesel engines (German).

https://maxmarineelectronics.com/

I work with (but don't repair) automotive computers and electronic modules. Something doesn't look right in the sixth and tenth photos. Specifically, the irregular hole with a blister on either side, and the odd-looking white substance. But that substance doesn't appear anywhere else. It's possible it was made that way. Other than that, I don't see anything obvious like burnt spots, bent-over pins where the harness plugs in, corrosion from water intrusion, etc.

Something I don't see at all is the harness connector. All it takes is one spread-open or corroded/broken terminal to shut everything down. (This can still happen even if it looks good.) I also see nothing in your text to indicate you've tested for external power(s) and ground(s). Always do this before condemning any computer or module. Granted, a wiring diagram might be a taller order for a 15-year-old motorcycle than a car.

quote:

Originally posted by Valpo Fz:
I found a used one on eBay for $1k but that’s a lot of money for a used part.

I bet there is a company which will do the repair (if it is possible) for about $500-$600, shipping included.

When I had my '94 850 turbo (I think it was that car) there was an electronics part some members would take off the car and send away for repair, the ECU, maybe? Fifteen years ago it was a $350 fix to have that 'issue' on the PC board repaired. 3-day turn-around.

A technician-repaired board vs a used eBay board? The tested one sounds like a better deal.

I think this is the correct wiring diagram.

Those bikes have a huge cult following. Pelican has an R1100S section. I'm not real good with PCB stuff, but I go to my local amp tech when something is above my head. He really knows how to remove and re-solder stuff on PCBs, charges next to nothing for it. I'm sure any local amp tech could figure out which parts are bad and replace them without damaging any traces, and it'd be very cheap.

quote:

Originally posted by egregore:
the odd-looking white substance.

I think the "odd looking white substance" is just the way the solder cooled. It doesn't cool evenly. You can see in the 5th image the large exposed ground with the same surface.

I Can replace the part if you had a spare But wouldn't be able to trouble shoot the board other than basics. A Schematic might change that though.

The Real Question is- Did the part fail Or did something else damage it (take it out)? Bad sensor, input or component?

The way the system works is the board is attached to the manifold that has two electric servos that increase or decrease the brake fluid pressure based on wheel speed. It weighs about 15 lbs and is a horribly complicated system for a motorcycle. One of the oddities is when you have an ABS fault it goes into a residual breaking mode and you loose half of your power on that circuit which is really asinine. The system requires yearly flushing which requires yearly flushing of the ABS unit $500 at BMW or a couple of hours of your time and 10 pages of directions. I decided to remove the ABS, a common occurrence, enough so that there is all kinds of info on the internet (Pelican Parts forum and other places). The removal was pretty straight forward and took a couple of hours start to finish the longest part being the flushing of the new braided steel break lines. The post ABS brakes are really really good.

quote:

Originally posted by Rick Lee:
Those bikes have a huge cult following. Pelican has an R1100S section. I'm not real good with PCB stuff, but I go to my local amp tech when something is above my head. He really knows how to remove and re-solder stuff on PCBs, charges next to nothing for it. I'm sure any local amp tech could figure out which parts are bad and replace them without damaging any traces, and it'd be very cheap.

Like a guitar amp tech? I have gotten a ton of help from Pelican parts forum.

It may lead to nothing, but it's worth a shot giving Hermy's a call in Port Clinton, PA.

Back in my riding day's (a buddy rode a Beemer) we'd stop in at the shop to ogle all of the new and used bikes, accessories, leather gear and boots, etc. Also amazing to me was the huge warehouse of used parts / inventory.

I have not been there in years, but back then the folks running the place were always very friendly, helpful, shared riding stories and were true ambassador's for the motorcycling sport / lifestyle.

Good luck!

This message has been edited. Last edited by: Cookster,

quote:

Originally posted by Cookster:
It may lead to nothing, but it's worth a shot giving Hermy's a call in Port Clinton, PA.

Back in my riding day's (a buddy rode a Beemer) we'd stop in the at shop to ogle all of the new and used bikes, accessories, leather gear and boots, etc. Also amazing to me was the huge warehouse of used parts / inventory.

I have not been there in years, but back then the folks running the place were always very friendly, helpful, shared riding stories and were true ambassador's for the motorcycling sport / lifestyle.

Good luck!

I have a t-shirt from there!

Yes, a guitar amp tech. A lot of computer stuff with PCBs is so cheap and disposable, it's not worth fixing. So there's not always a large market for the skills to work on PCBs. But guitar guys will try to keep their precious amps running forever. And so a lot of amp techs work on this stuff all day long and are very good at it. It's an art, not a science.

Boy, could I tell you stories about circuit boards and automotive!