I have one of the $350 type table saws and the fence is the biggest drawback. It's just not straight enough or accurate enough for really detailed work. I manage to get by, but I'm always futzing with it.

Forgot the brand, but it's mostly red in color...

Thanks for all your replies, much appreciated.

You've given me some great ideas of what to look for going forward for a better saw. I'll keep watching for Craigslist locally.

My dream, which is not practical at this time, would be for enough property for 30 x 40 square foot separate building for a shop. I may never be able to do that, but if I could, then I'd be thrilled for it. That would mean the bigger and better cabinet style saw, and then drill press, planer, joiner, lathe. Well a guy can dream, right?

I think I'd better clarify about cabinets, what I meant to say but didn't was that I want to build some cabinets with drawers for misc shop hand tools and supplies. I'd be using plywood for this so I think the above mentioned saw might be adequate.

Thanks also for the idea of using a router to make dados. I'd be using this idea for the above mentioned plywood drawers and shelves with doors (cabinets in my poor attempt at description).

If you need precision, versatility and dimensional capacity, a contractor saw will not work without extensive modification that would cost more than a used shop saw and not be as good.

quote:

Originally posted by SBrooks:
I have one of the $350 type table saws and the fence is the biggest drawback. It's just not straight enough or accurate enough for really detailed work. I manage to get by, but I'm always futzing with it.

The big problem with fences on inexpensive table saws is poor, out-of-square, inconsistent lock-up, and insufficient rigidity.

The fence on my old Contractor's saw is not a high-falutin' cabinet saw fence, but I know how to lock it up square to the blade and it locks-up solidly. Once I set it: It stays set. It does not flex, and it's square to the blade for its length--as near as I was able to determine.

That's why I haven't replaced it, yet.

One other choice would be a track saw. There are many more choices in the last several years, more so than just the German (Festool) of a few years ago. The Makita (SP6000J1) tool is a good choice for the money.

With a good track saw and a router, you can get most things done without permanently using any floor space as you would with a cabinet grade table saw.

quote:

Originally posted by OKCGene:

quote:

Originally posted by XLT:
Here is my table saw only 35 k perfect for the home shop.

Awesome! Dust extraction! What are you using that big honker for?

I have a cabinet shop been building cabinets for 32 years. I started out with a 3 hp Rockwell unisaw and as other have said older Powermatic 66 or delta unisaw would be a good choice, the fence is the key though biesmeyer makes a good one along with the delta units

I had an older version of that DeWalt saw for awhile. Great project saw, lightweight, easy to manage. Aluminum top, which wasn't absolutly flat and stable, it was sufficiently flat and stable, and didn't rust in my garage.

Precise? Well, no, but as long as you know that, you can usually work around it, especially for shop cabinets. No, it would not be my choice for fine furniture, necessarily...

Sold it when I got my Grizzly contractor saw. Had moved into a basement by that time, no room for two saws. If you can find it used, it would be a fine starter, in my opinion.

I bought a Craftsman with the cast iron table 30years ago with a upgraded fence ( can't remember the name, Biesmier or something).
Still going strong.
The last power tool I would ever give up. One way or another it can do about anything.

Is Delta or Rockwell good quality?

quote:

Originally posted by OKCGene:
Is Delta or Rockwell good quality?

older Rockwell were great about 15 years ago to compete with grizzly they went china and are now delta, it's too bad as they had a good thing going just wanted to compete for the home size shop. I remember when everything was heavy and made from cast iron.

I keep thinking you're from Kansas city if so here is one that most are talking about.

only problem is this one is three phase.

https://kansascity.craigslist....isaw/6284287333.html

quote:

Originally posted by XLT:

quote:

Originally posted by OKCGene:
Is Delta or Rockwell good quality?

older Rockwell were great about 15 years ago to compete with grizzly they went china and are now delta, it's too bad as they had a good thing going just wanted to compete for the home size shop. I remember when everything was heavy and made from cast iron.

I keep thinking you're from Kansas city if so here is one that most are talking about.

only problem is this one is three phase.

https://kansascity.craigslist....isaw/6284287333.html

I noticed some older Rockwell and Delta on Craigslist. I don't mind used at all if it's quality. BTW I'm in Oklahoma City.

https://postimg.org/image/2zl2m6hbff/

I would think about that safety blade "sawstop" if you are in experienced with table saws. This happened to me and I've Used that saw for 30 years.

Over $4000 in hospital bills for 1/10 of a second mistake.

I found I could cut better dodos using my router. Just clamp a straight edge to the work piece set depth and go. I purchased a set of bits that cut the proper size for plywood. Dados on a table saw are a pain. Takes too long to set up. On a table saw you are cutting the dado on the underside of you work piece. Can't see it. Router is cutting on the topside.

quote:

Originally posted by OKCGene:

quote:

Originally posted by XLT:

quote:

Originally posted by OKCGene:
Is Delta or Rockwell good quality?

older Rockwell were great about 15 years ago to compete with grizzly they went china and are now delta, it's too bad as they had a good thing going just wanted to compete for the home size shop. I remember when everything was heavy and made from cast iron.

I keep thinking you're from Kansas city if so here is one that most are talking about.

only problem is this one is three phase.

https://kansascity.craigslist....isaw/6284287333.html

I noticed some older Rockwell and Delta on Craigslist. I don't mind used at all if it's quality. BTW I'm in Oklahoma City.

Swapping out a three phase for a single phase motor is very simple. The used Unisaw I have I bought from one of my customers years ago, swapped out the 3ph motor to a 1ph.

Example of a Baldor Powermatic 66 single phase motor. Leeson offers a few different 1ph motors for Unisaws for a similar price.

https://www.mmtoolparts.com/st...blesaw-motor-6472028

The DeWalt table saw is a nice tool. You'll be happy with it.

$1,300 dollars for that Sawstop contractor table is a lot to spend. BUT the video of it locking up when a hotdog touches the blade is amazing.

I have a $200 Craftsman table saw, it works pretty well but precision is not what it is made for.

I now have the Sawstop on my Christmas list.

Along one wall in my 2 car garage I have a 13" Delta comtractors saw, my grandfather's radial arm saw, and a chop saw. I like that the table saw has a solid stand on wheels. I'm using it for remodel projects. I still park 2 cars in the garage.

If space os at a premium, another type of saw to consider is a Track saw.

Silent

Saw stop saws are going in many school shops due to liability issues and inexperienced operators. Those older saws will then be sold, sometimes in public sales. That is one place to watch.

My experience with the Sawstop saws is that moisture in the wood (pressure treated) can cause them to trigger the safety device. I think the safety devices are approaching $100/shot. It also takes the blade with it, so that it lost at the same time. So, a simple, unintended activation can cost 200-300 dollars. An activation saving your fingers (on the other hand) is well worth it.

Myself, I have been using a tablesaw for 40+ years (shop teacher) and mine, at home, is a Unisaw. While I could afford the SS, I don't desire it's complexity.

Like the other advice above, something under $600 new isn't going to meet your needs. A good, heavier, 10" used saw is what you are looking for. Local auctions? Have you been on SearchTempest.com? It searches multiple craigslists in a given area. You can choose how far you want to search/travel for specific items.

A cheap, new saw or a contractors model (new or used) is soon going to feel like something cobbled together from cardboard and duct tape. Results will be a high degree of frustration for the final results.

Since what you want in the end is a good, full shop, start now saving and buying the better stuff. Make do with a fence/straight edge, some clamps and a circular saw for a little while. Enjoy the hunt of finding a good older saw (Unisaw, Powermatic 66) then tune it up and it will serve you for the rest of your life.

I use Johnsons or Butchers Paste floor wax on my machined surfaces. Table saw table, etc. prevents rust, makes work slide easier, lasts a long time.

Finally, be careful and focused. While my tablesaw hasn't bitten me yet (knock on wood), my jointer did just three weeks ago. My ring finger will be forever shorter. Too much going on in my mind, wasn't focused on the work. Ouch. Still tingles but is healing nicely.

quote:

Originally posted by ensigmatic:
Once I set it: It stays set. It does not flex, and it's square to the blade for its length--as near as I was able to determine.

The way I always determined was to measure from the fence to a miter gauge slot at each end of the fence.
 

Regardless of what you pick, grab one of the harbor freight 20% off coupons and politely ask your hardware store of choice to match it.

When I bought my saw, lowes said they would match it up to 15% off and Home Depot matched the full 20% after manager approval. Saved me a little over 100 bucks. So it was essentially a free dado stack!